Rep Power: 266

Does it ever need to be changed?

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah when it starts to get darker. i just drain and refill the reservoir when i notice it not looking as clear as the new stuff. i think ive changed it a few times so far and just recently too. thats the easiest way without doing a full flush and most fluid circulates around anyway. and use only the honda fluid. it helps steering response to have newer fluid in there.

 
Rep Power: 308

Shine a bright light through the side of the reservoir. It should be the color of honey if clean.

 
Rep Power: 266

Mine is dark. I need a change. So ummm, what do you mean by drain? Undo the hose or tilt the resovoir upside down?

 
Rep Power: 266

Okay, I should have checked my honda book. It says:

Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose
Connect a hose of suitable diameter to the discon-
nected return hose, and put the hose end in a suit-
able container.

CAUTION: Taks car. not to spill tho lluid on tho
body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.

Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steer-
ing wheel from lock-to-lock several tim€s. When
fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the
engine. Discard the fluid.

Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir to the upper level line.
Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then turn the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air
from the system.

Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary.
CAUTION: Do not fill the reservoir beyond the
upper level line.

 
Rep Power: 812

do you really want to do that tho? you can just remove the side hose, drain the reservoir into a cup, then reconnect the hose and pour new fluid. drive around once, then top off the fluid to max again once the air goes out. after a couple weeks check the fluid color. if its still darkish, drain and refill again. ive never had to do it more than once tho.

 
Rep Power: 228

I think the method described in the service manual is best because you eliminate as much old fluid as possible, thereby reducing the amount that the new fluid is diluted by old fluid. Also use Honda or Honda-recommended power steering fluid. It's important to replace the fluid regularly to avoid destroying the seals in the steering rack, which is a bear to replace.

 
Rep Power: 256

i just used a turkey baster.

 
Rep Power: 266

Gearbox, I think your method is the same, only difference being that you didn't turn the engine on and turn the wheel during removal of the old.

That's lame how it doesn't even mention PS fluid in the maintenance schedule. Any way, I had to buy like 4 of those bottles for honda (12oz each). 15 dollars total.

 
Rep Power: 0

I use the turkey baster method as well. I change it out three times over a week. It seems to get most of it out that way. I do that once a year.

 
Rep Power: 266

You need a turkey baster no matter what since fluid will spill out once you disconnect the hose. I did the full flush and it's 2 not 4 of those 12oz bottles, the guy was wrong. Well, now my PS pump makes a gas-powered-saw sound with the steering wheel turned. Maybe it did that before the change, should I be worried?

 
Rep Power: 228

You need to bleed the system. With the front end on stands and the engine idling, turn the wheel from lock to lock multiple times and then top off fluid in the reservoir.

 
Rep Power: 266

I already did all that. I followed the instructions perfectly. Will air still bleed driving around with the cap on the reservoir?

 
Rep Power: 228

I would continue to turn lock to lock with the engine idling until the sound subsides. This is best done with the front end on stands.

 
Rep Power: 812

even if you just drain and fill, you need to drive the car afterwards and make full point turns in both directions to let the fluid circulate. when you get back and let the car cool, you will prolly have the fluid down to MIN level and need to add more. im always nervous of running the PS without fluid using hondas method so i stick with drain and fill and the rack still has fluid. the system will bleed itself of air as you drive, but i hope your noises go away. usually those are made when the rack is low on fluid.

 
Rep Power: 266

I will do what you say and see if it goes away. Man when I was turning the wheel during idle, the pressure was so intense that the hose snaked out of the collection container and beads of PSF shot everywhere. I had to bust out my snake charming flute to tame it. Now I know why you do it your way.

Btw, the previous poster said that good fluid should look like honey. Well not true. Mine looked exactly like honey, but the new stuff was much more on the clear side.

 
Rep Power: 256

the way i did was suck out the fluid fil it up then start the car and turn the wheel back and forth then start over till it cleard up i didn't want to run it without fluid like gearbox.

 
Rep Power: 812

that turkey baster is a great idea too, its a bit difficult to maneuver a cup under the hose and pour most of the reservoir out. and yeah new fluid should be clear color almost like water. the stuff i got few yrs ago had a honey look, but the new stuff i just got was almost colorless.

 
Rep Power: 228

You definitely want to secure the return hose in a suitable container so that fluid doesn't spray all over. Having a buddy's help would also make the procedure easier. Nonetheless, this is the best method because you eliminate the maximal amount of old fluid, which is the ultimate goal.

 
Rep Power: 266

Works good now, thanks for all the help.