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I tried the search but it seems to be locking up.

So, I took my 97 Civic into the dealer, where they diagnosed it as needing a new catalytic converter. It was whispered in my ear that it could be DIY rather than paying the dealer.

However, I also heard that some CC are "in-line" in the exhaust and need to be cut out/welded in, but that places like "Your Local Muffler Shop" (Midas, Big Als, etc.) can do this for a fraction of the cost of the Dealer.

So on a 97 Civic, is it DIY (I can loosen and tighten bolts, but not weld) or is it a "take it to a trusted muffler shop" - or is there another alternative?

TIA,
Steve

 
Rep Power: 266

I'm about to do the same thing, and the problem is that the catalytic converter and exhaust manifold are one-piece on the DX, CX, LX, and HX models. That's really stupid! On the other hand, the EX uses the D16Y8 engine and it has a one-piece header seperate from the CC.

The problem isn't installing it. That's easy. Generally you don't even have to replace the gasket in between the head and the header because it's made out of metal. I've got all the torque specs if you need them. But you didn't specify which 6th gen civic you have.

So the main issue is what to buy. A used OEM header-cat? Or maybe we can find a steel (non cast iron) header/cat combo that is split in between, allowing easy replacement in the future in case it happends again.

I called the nearby foreign auto junk yard, and they have one for $70. But I don't recall if he was talking about the D16Y7, or if he was talking about the D8. Regardless, Y7 units seem to be going for $400+ on ebay if you type in civic catalytic converter. That's not even something to consider because it ain't even in the ballpark of a good deal. Hell, it ain't even the same sport!

What figures is your mechanic telling you? I'm curious what they charge for something like that. What I'm really curious about is how much the cost of a new OEM manifold is. I bet it's outrageous! The oem manifold is cheap cast iron!

My advice is to do it yourself. Post a wanted add on craig's list auto parts section. And call up your junk yards. Another option is to get a new one off ebay (link below). This is made in either taiwan or China by Dorman. According to the seller, it's an "exact copy." It's made out of cast iron. I, personally, want to avoid this. I think I would rather get a used one pulled from a civic with low miles. But then again, the OEM one is crap so it's like... what does it matter?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00...mZ140270360933

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97...mZ150296300550

 
Rep Power: 266

Whelp, I did a bunch more research and nothing seems tempting. I don't want to pay for a new or used cast iron part, because that's a sham. I also don't want a cat-back exhaust nor do I want to go through the trouble of figuring out if I can convert it to EX config, which may require a new exhaust pipe as well.

I did a search on Mig welding cast iron and ran into a company that offers special rod for making cast iron welding easy and strong. Normally, welding cast iron is a gamble, but with their rod you can make quality repairs. For 47 dollars, I can buy the exhaust manifold special which runs 47 dollars shipping included. It consists of 2-72 and 2-77 rods.

My dad has a MIG welder, or Gas metal arc welding (GMAW) to do the job. If you don't have a MIG welder, you can call up any welding shop and they should do it for you, but you should buy the rods and tell them to use it.

Watch this vid:

http://www.muggyweld.com/cast1.html

 
Rep Power: 327

Most of the time welding cast iron = re-cracking at a later day. You would be money and time a head if you just replace the cracked cast iron with a new/used one. And as far as mig welding with a special "rod" for cast iron aint gunna happen its just not a possible scenario.Mig welders use a wire that is coiled up on a spool and your unable to use what they show in that video unless you have an arc welder.

 
Rep Power: 266

Yeah I just noticed. I couldn't figure out how their rod goes in there.

Junk yard it is. I wonder if Gearbox is right about the "heat shields" causing the iron to split. Also, do you have any cheap aftermarket alternatives for the DX setup? As in a REAL steel header. I'm still confused about the whole thing.

 
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usually cast iron cracks because of heat cycles where it either is heated or cooled to rapidly

 
Rep Power: 266

Yeah but with that "shield" in place, it heats up more than it needs to. It traps the heat in there, increasing the max temp of the manifold.

 
Rep Power: 327

it also retains the heat to let it cool slowly

 
Rep Power: 266

I want to know what gearbox thinks about this.