Revving above 7 g's
we have a 2 stage vtec....the I-vtec is the 3 stage
Its weird...i myself dont understand it....
But i hear its how hard you press the pedal for the first stage? and then the second stage comes on after 5k?
I can feel mine on a smooth road in 3rd
Its weird...i myself dont understand it....
But i hear its how hard you press the pedal for the first stage? and then the second stage comes on after 5k?
I can feel mine on a smooth road in 3rd
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This seems to be a newbie posting thread. Not the the everyday people but to the others. WTF is with all of this. VTEC stays on after 1rst and get a VTEC controller.
Ok, let me start off with, I don't own an EX VTEC, but I have plenty of friends who have VTEC engines and know a **** load about them.
First off, Zzyzx has basically nailed it on the mark. The higher you rev your engine doesn't go right along with the more power you get. Ever seen a dyno sheet? Ever seen how at the end, around redline the hp and torque curves fall? This is because you aren't producing maximum power. Our engines can't perform as well when the rpm's are above a certain point.
The only thing you can do is get better a better CAM (Singular), valves, valve springs, titanium retainers, and basically all of the other stuff that DH-racing has provided for us. Even if you found a way to change our redline (AEM EMS is the only thing I can think of) you will still not be producing more power.
All of the stuff that DH-racing has provided for us (from the parts mentioned above) allow us increase our torque curve, which means that your engine won't drop power nearly as fast. Which if you can increase your torque curve to where it starts dropping at around 6,900-7,000 that would be amazing for a D17. That means increased power throughout the entire gear.
Do not be mistaken thinking that increasing your redline will help performance, when in fact, like Zzyzx said, you will not only be hurting your engine, but losing quite a bit of power.
Ok, let me start off with, I don't own an EX VTEC, but I have plenty of friends who have VTEC engines and know a **** load about them.
First off, Zzyzx has basically nailed it on the mark. The higher you rev your engine doesn't go right along with the more power you get. Ever seen a dyno sheet? Ever seen how at the end, around redline the hp and torque curves fall? This is because you aren't producing maximum power. Our engines can't perform as well when the rpm's are above a certain point.
The only thing you can do is get better a better CAM (Singular), valves, valve springs, titanium retainers, and basically all of the other stuff that DH-racing has provided for us. Even if you found a way to change our redline (AEM EMS is the only thing I can think of) you will still not be producing more power.
All of the stuff that DH-racing has provided for us (from the parts mentioned above) allow us increase our torque curve, which means that your engine won't drop power nearly as fast. Which if you can increase your torque curve to where it starts dropping at around 6,900-7,000 that would be amazing for a D17. That means increased power throughout the entire gear.
Do not be mistaken thinking that increasing your redline will help performance, when in fact, like Zzyzx said, you will not only be hurting your engine, but losing quite a bit of power.
Ok Vtec on the D series and B series and H series egines do not have Vtec engaged all the time after 1st gear but maybe it is different with these new D17As All I know is the D16Y5, D16Y8 ,B16A, B18C, H22A DO NOT have Vtec engaged all the time after 1st gear...
All I have to say is get a Vtec controller I would think it would be way cheaper than upin the Redline.
All I have to say is get a Vtec controller I would think it would be way cheaper than upin the Redline.
With an aftermarket cam, depending on the specs, you should feel a strong pull all the way to redline. No one can tell you for sure on the d17 because on one has a tuned setup like this. I believe supermex has a fully built engine but I'm not sure if it's tuned yet. He hasn't posted in quite some time.
On a side note Exospeed makes killer cams and they should be r&d'ing a cam for the d17 along with upgraded valvetrain. As of right now they can do a full port and polish and three angle valve job for us. His SN is ExospeedRacing on this forum.
On a side note Exospeed makes killer cams and they should be r&d'ing a cam for the d17 along with upgraded valvetrain. As of right now they can do a full port and polish and three angle valve job for us. His SN is ExospeedRacing on this forum.
We have an VTEC hybrid. Low RPM it is VTEC-E mode(4 intake valve except no lean burn), and after 2500~3200RPM(depends on how you drive) the high-cam take over...But wait, the high cam is not the same as the high-cam that was in older Civics. It is the intake hi-cam that was used during the 4 intake valve to link to 8 intake valve. Therefore, for an HX without lean burn, and get a higher profile cam, it is an EX. Anyway, it is still a VTEC, the only VTEC-E that is used is with lean burn, which takes off horsepower.
I dyno'd my car and the A/F after VTEC kicks in was as rich as 12.3.....
I dyno'd my car and the A/F after VTEC kicks in was as rich as 12.3.....
Originally posted by 82801BA
We have an VTEC hybrid. Low RPM it is VTEC-E mode(4 intake valve except no lean burn), and after 2500~3200RPM(depends on how you drive) the high-cam take over...But wait, the high cam is not the same as the high-cam that was in older Civics. It is the intake hi-cam that was used during the 4 intake valve to link to 8 intake valve. Therefore, for an HX without lean burn, and get a higher profile cam, it is an EX. Anyway, it is still a VTEC, the only VTEC-E that is used is with lean burn, which takes off horsepower.
I dyno'd my car and the A/F after VTEC kicks in was as rich as 12.3.....
We have an VTEC hybrid. Low RPM it is VTEC-E mode(4 intake valve except no lean burn), and after 2500~3200RPM(depends on how you drive) the high-cam take over...But wait, the high cam is not the same as the high-cam that was in older Civics. It is the intake hi-cam that was used during the 4 intake valve to link to 8 intake valve. Therefore, for an HX without lean burn, and get a higher profile cam, it is an EX. Anyway, it is still a VTEC, the only VTEC-E that is used is with lean burn, which takes off horsepower.
I dyno'd my car and the A/F after VTEC kicks in was as rich as 12.3.....
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Re: Revving above 7 g's
Originally posted by hooter73mc
What do I need to make my EX rev above 7 g's aside from a valvetrain upgrade.
What do I need to make my EX rev above 7 g's aside from a valvetrain upgrade.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hreadid=142170
What a lot of the folks here are saying is technically correct. However, most don't quite understand that when you completely upgrade the engine, you also shift (or change) the HP and torque curves significantly. What this means is that, yes, at STOCK there is no need to rev past 6900 RPM - BUT when the engine is completely done (inside and out), the drop-off point increases....
Originally posted by dober
What to you have done to it? What were the results?
What to you have done to it? What were the results?
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Well, Sure you could run your car to 8,000 RPMs but you'll be accelerating slower.....
Its been determined by the Torque curve and Gearing that on an EX the best shifting point is 6,500 RPMs for all gears...
So, Unless you've segnifigantly altered the torque cruve on your LX, Shifting at 8,000 RPMS will actually make you slower then if you shifted at 6,500....
Its been determined by the Torque curve and Gearing that on an EX the best shifting point is 6,500 RPMs for all gears...
So, Unless you've segnifigantly altered the torque cruve on your LX, Shifting at 8,000 RPMS will actually make you slower then if you shifted at 6,500....
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Originally Posted by 82801BA
It would be the best to rev up to the max hp then shift, right?
I am not saying to raise the limiter on a stock engine, I would personally slap anyone who tried that...I have an engine I am building up though...does hondata do anything for our cars yet?
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Originally Posted by 82801BA
Well.....I have my max power set at 5500, then the curve becomes flat and slightly decreasing.....What should I do?
I assume your redline is somewhere around or before 6500?
another things to consider as well, gear ratio.
Mm...if there is no dyno around you or cant afford to go to 1, just try flooring it in any gear, and feel where the power drops and shift a little after that.
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