Opening Tailights
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From: Markham, Ontario, Canada
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These are my tails installed... the pic isn't that great because it's dark outside... but i left the corner lights without the cover so they are 3D...
tell me what you think... i'll try and get better pics up...
tell me what you think... i'll try and get better pics up...
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From: San Francisco/Berkeley, California, US
Rep Power: 0 can you give more instructions and a better picture?
looks good from that small pic
looks good from that small pic
Originally posted by evol
for the guys that wanted to do the LEDS its really not that hard if you dont mind getting out a dremel.... I opened up the back of my stocks and flush fitted my LED lamps right into the OEM location ... works great and is bright as heck
for the guys that wanted to do the LEDS its really not that hard if you dont mind getting out a dremel.... I opened up the back of my stocks and flush fitted my LED lamps right into the OEM location ... works great and is bright as heck 
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From: Chelsea, Michigan
Rep Power: 0 Here ya go, and btw, you could do this with a 2 dr.
Parts needed:
8 mm and 10 mm (not completely necessary) socket wrench
Very small screwdriver if you have Alteeza's (maybe even for stock, not sure though)
Flat tipped screwdriver
Exacto Razor
Spray Paint of your choice (you will probably use the whole can, so be sure to have an extra)
Clear coat* (optional)
Silicone Clear Kitchen & Bath Caulk (if you pop open the red and clear pieces, and if you wish to reinstall clear plastic)
Oven
Somewhat clean or sterile room with good ventilation for painting
Old newspaper to paint on (or something similar)
Instructions:
1. Remove tailights, this has been covered often, if you need help, search or PM me and I will write out instructions (sedan only, the coupe is self explanatory).
2. Remove lights in the taillight and I reccomend removing the bolts screwed into the taillight housing to be safe.
3. Preheat oven to between 275-310 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Place two of the taillights on a cooking sheet and put in the oven. Set timer for 7-8 minutes.
5. Remove promptly and get out flat tipped screwdriver.
6. Wedge in flat tip screwdriver at each flat corner and move out wards from there (continue prying upwards). Watch out for the rounded top of the taillight housing, you might crack it, so be careful when you get to the rounded area. When about 2/3 to 3/4 of the clear plastic is pryed up, use your own muscle (*not much, it isnt that hard, or else you may crack something*). Do this procedure for each taillight housing.
*Note*: If you have Alteezas on a 4 dr and maybe a 2 dr you will have to unscrew 4 small screws on each of the large outer taillight housings (2 housings that is), or else you may crack the socket the screw is in, and you wont get as good of a seal if you want to re-install the clear plastic back in.
7. If you wish to paint under the plastic filter pieces (the four clear red pieces and two clear white pieces), use a flat head screwdriver and pry up at the two points where they are glued to the housing; directly across from each other, at 0 degrees (if the piece were a circle) and 180 degrees.
8. (For alteezas only) If you wish to re-install clear plastic, you will see silver paint the the clear plastic from the two bigger, outer taillight housing. The easiest way to remove this is goof off, if you try and scratch it off you will put lasting scratches that look ugly in the plastic.
-9-. I did not do this, but I think that you can use goof off to remove the thin silver coating, I just scratched it off. And on the last two that I did, I left it on.
-9-. Or, you can leave the silver strip on and scuff it with a scotch brite pad (like steel wool) so the paint has something to stick to.
10. Almost ready to paint, now you have to clean the housing part that you are going to paint or else you will be painting over dirt etc. You can get a grime removing spray, but since it really shouldnt be that dirty it isnt necessary. Just get some soap and water and wash the housing off. Then wipe thoroughly with a lint free towel.
11. Finally to the painting. Go to your designated painting area and get out the paint spray can. Spray evenly with quick strokes across surface with the can about 8-12 inches from painting surface. Wait 5 minutes between coats and apply between 2-3 coats depending on how even it is etc. Note: These should be instructions on the spray can.
12. Now to the clear coat if you are going to leave the plastic piece off, or if you want a glossier finish. Wait 30 minutes or until dry after spraying color paint. Then apply 2-4 coats of clear coat depending on the glossiness you want. Wait about 5 minutes between coats. Note: These should be instructions on the can.
13. Wait until completely dry and re-install the four red pieces and two white pieces by applying glue into the hole where the tabs on the pieces fit prior to removal.
14. If you wish to re-install clear plastic, just put it back together like it was before and try to get it snapped back together as close as possible (re-install screws that were removed from before also). Then apply the glue around the outer edges to basically reseal the housing. DO NOT apply glue where the original glue was, you will get a whitish residue that is very hard to clean and requires you to remove plastic piece again.
15. Reinstall bulbs, bolts onto housing.
16. Install tails back into the car.
Lastly, you might want to clean the outside of the shells (and wax it if you left it naked) or you will have a lot of handprint smudges etc.
Your done and your final result may look something like this, but hopefully with a better paint job than me.
Approx time: 30 minutes max. to pry open all taillight housings. about 3-5 hours to paint and reinstall, depending on how fast you paint and clean up.
Finished result:
Parts needed:
8 mm and 10 mm (not completely necessary) socket wrench
Very small screwdriver if you have Alteeza's (maybe even for stock, not sure though)
Flat tipped screwdriver
Exacto Razor
Spray Paint of your choice (you will probably use the whole can, so be sure to have an extra)
Clear coat* (optional)
Silicone Clear Kitchen & Bath Caulk (if you pop open the red and clear pieces, and if you wish to reinstall clear plastic)
Oven
Somewhat clean or sterile room with good ventilation for painting
Old newspaper to paint on (or something similar)
Instructions:
1. Remove tailights, this has been covered often, if you need help, search or PM me and I will write out instructions (sedan only, the coupe is self explanatory).
2. Remove lights in the taillight and I reccomend removing the bolts screwed into the taillight housing to be safe.
3. Preheat oven to between 275-310 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Place two of the taillights on a cooking sheet and put in the oven. Set timer for 7-8 minutes.
5. Remove promptly and get out flat tipped screwdriver.
6. Wedge in flat tip screwdriver at each flat corner and move out wards from there (continue prying upwards). Watch out for the rounded top of the taillight housing, you might crack it, so be careful when you get to the rounded area. When about 2/3 to 3/4 of the clear plastic is pryed up, use your own muscle (*not much, it isnt that hard, or else you may crack something*). Do this procedure for each taillight housing.
*Note*: If you have Alteezas on a 4 dr and maybe a 2 dr you will have to unscrew 4 small screws on each of the large outer taillight housings (2 housings that is), or else you may crack the socket the screw is in, and you wont get as good of a seal if you want to re-install the clear plastic back in.
7. If you wish to paint under the plastic filter pieces (the four clear red pieces and two clear white pieces), use a flat head screwdriver and pry up at the two points where they are glued to the housing; directly across from each other, at 0 degrees (if the piece were a circle) and 180 degrees.
8. (For alteezas only) If you wish to re-install clear plastic, you will see silver paint the the clear plastic from the two bigger, outer taillight housing. The easiest way to remove this is goof off, if you try and scratch it off you will put lasting scratches that look ugly in the plastic.
-9-. I did not do this, but I think that you can use goof off to remove the thin silver coating, I just scratched it off. And on the last two that I did, I left it on.
-9-. Or, you can leave the silver strip on and scuff it with a scotch brite pad (like steel wool) so the paint has something to stick to.
10. Almost ready to paint, now you have to clean the housing part that you are going to paint or else you will be painting over dirt etc. You can get a grime removing spray, but since it really shouldnt be that dirty it isnt necessary. Just get some soap and water and wash the housing off. Then wipe thoroughly with a lint free towel.
11. Finally to the painting. Go to your designated painting area and get out the paint spray can. Spray evenly with quick strokes across surface with the can about 8-12 inches from painting surface. Wait 5 minutes between coats and apply between 2-3 coats depending on how even it is etc. Note: These should be instructions on the spray can.
12. Now to the clear coat if you are going to leave the plastic piece off, or if you want a glossier finish. Wait 30 minutes or until dry after spraying color paint. Then apply 2-4 coats of clear coat depending on the glossiness you want. Wait about 5 minutes between coats. Note: These should be instructions on the can.
13. Wait until completely dry and re-install the four red pieces and two white pieces by applying glue into the hole where the tabs on the pieces fit prior to removal.
14. If you wish to re-install clear plastic, just put it back together like it was before and try to get it snapped back together as close as possible (re-install screws that were removed from before also). Then apply the glue around the outer edges to basically reseal the housing. DO NOT apply glue where the original glue was, you will get a whitish residue that is very hard to clean and requires you to remove plastic piece again.
15. Reinstall bulbs, bolts onto housing.
16. Install tails back into the car.
Lastly, you might want to clean the outside of the shells (and wax it if you left it naked) or you will have a lot of handprint smudges etc.
Your done and your final result may look something like this, but hopefully with a better paint job than me.
Approx time: 30 minutes max. to pry open all taillight housings. about 3-5 hours to paint and reinstall, depending on how fast you paint and clean up.
Finished result:
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 386
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From: sin city (Las Vegas, NV)
Rep Power: 0 Here is some PICS that you wanted ... sorry that they are kinda vague ... my dad has my metric tools so I couldn't get the lights off for better PICS.... I basically used a "roto-zip" type bit to CAREFULLY trim out the size necissary to insert the LED module, in my case I went with the school bus type fixture, they are super bright, and priced reasonably. after the hole was trimmed for a snug fit, i simply slid in the module and silicone it up.
*as a note, do not silicone it in place until you have mounted it to see what angle it has for best visibility from behind, my first attempt ended up in the best line of sight at a 3/4 view to the rear end of the car and not the brightest from directly behind. also, when mounting any chosen module, you must check for clearances to the trunk supports. this will also be a factor in where you can actually place the module in your OEM housing. well hope it helps
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 243
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From: Chelsea, Michigan
Rep Power: 0 Alright I took my clear plastic piece off and I have an idea.
What if I smoked that clear plastic piece like nobottlejustthrottle does for people. Remove the OEM red plastic cover on the taillight housing. Put a ring of leds for each different light (or something similar) with the stop lights being red leds, the turn lights being amberish leds, and the reverse lights being white leds. Would this work? How do you think this would end up, cause I dont want a hassle with cops, but I dont like the look of what I just did, my paint job sucked ***** and I have all this silicone on the corners of the taillights.
Now, no one steal this idea (actually I'd be flattered, and I plan on doing this).
Oh, BTW, what type of leds do I get, could I just use a drill, and what type of paint do I use to smoke the tail?
Some one should make this DIY a sticky.
What if I smoked that clear plastic piece like nobottlejustthrottle does for people. Remove the OEM red plastic cover on the taillight housing. Put a ring of leds for each different light (or something similar) with the stop lights being red leds, the turn lights being amberish leds, and the reverse lights being white leds. Would this work? How do you think this would end up, cause I dont want a hassle with cops, but I dont like the look of what I just did, my paint job sucked ***** and I have all this silicone on the corners of the taillights.
Now, no one steal this idea (actually I'd be flattered, and I plan on doing this).
Oh, BTW, what type of leds do I get, could I just use a drill, and what type of paint do I use to smoke the tail?
Some one should make this DIY a sticky.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: sin city (Las Vegas, NV)
Rep Power: 0 Sounds like you are going to try to do this "al a carte"
with LEDs you have two options
1: you can go all 12V LEDs which unless you have a really good electrical supplier (not radio shack) will cost you a fortune.
2: you can go with low voltage LEDs and a resistor to drop the 12v input supply. this is the way I would go if I were to take on the project.
as for the mounting I would go with a generic bread board this will give you alot of mounting options, and the ability to mount all the LEDs easily into the housing with silicone or epoxy (the better choice of the two)
if you have any more questions you can IM me at Simplyevol (AOL) or PM me here
as for the black out paint...
summit racing sells a product called Night Shades made by VHT
the part # is vht-sp999 and the price is $10.95 +s/h
with LEDs you have two options
1: you can go all 12V LEDs which unless you have a really good electrical supplier (not radio shack) will cost you a fortune.
2: you can go with low voltage LEDs and a resistor to drop the 12v input supply. this is the way I would go if I were to take on the project.
as for the mounting I would go with a generic bread board this will give you alot of mounting options, and the ability to mount all the LEDs easily into the housing with silicone or epoxy (the better choice of the two)
if you have any more questions you can IM me at Simplyevol (AOL) or PM me here
as for the black out paint...
summit racing sells a product called Night Shades made by VHT
the part # is vht-sp999 and the price is $10.95 +s/h
*BoY*CaR* *GiRL*DRivER*
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From: home of the sugarbowl Champs
Rep Power: 0 black chrome lights
i know this thread has been dead for a couple months, but I have these lights, and they arent as dark as the pic makes it seem. i want to paint the inside black(er). I know nothing about this, just from what i've read, but do i have to peel off the "black chrome" part, or just spray paint over it?
this is kinda off topic...but is there any way to repair cracked taillights? Theres a small piece of the plastic broken off of my chrome tails (i dont like chrome; they came with the car), about an inch tall and 2 inches wide, on the bottom edge of the light. Could I repair this? Im running stocks right now, and I simply dont like red taillights on a red car. If I can repair them, I want to paint the chrome housing black and reinstall them, since my color scheme is black and red.
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