but where do I get different trunk springs?

You have to make different trunk springs. As far as I know you can't "get" them anywhere. Well, the OEM spoilers come with different trunk springs. Besides that there are none.

Well. . my fatory tension bars that assisted the lid are gone. . So is it still ok to do these shocks without them? I have the Kappas series 6x9s too, so those stock bars just don't fit.

Factory tension bars? You mean the trunk springs, right? Yeah, it's OK to install the trunk shocks without those trunks springs. It's just that you'll need to use a stronger shock. In turn that might cause the trunk frame to bend a lot in the place where the shocks attach. just make sure that you have them attached firmly and you should be all set.

Are those considered shocks? They are just bars that cross-over each other. . ??

they hold the trunk up because they are twisted... A LOT. That's why they're called torsion bars, and they serve the same purpose as springs/shocks would...to put tension on the trunk lid and keep it open. Im have a stock lid, and am going to get 50lbs shocks in a few days, no trunk "springs". I'll let you know how it goes.

don't get the 50#. get the 60! I have a stock spoiler and I got the 50. They work, but 60 would be better.

i dont have a spoiler though

oh, my bad...you'll be fine with 50's then

What if you don't have a spoiler and you use 60s?

then it will probably be harder to close...or you could strap a 10lb weight to the inside of the trunk lid and call it even

thanks for diy

LOL. . You turn the key and the trunk pops open and knocks you out cold.

or it would make a nice pumpkin catapault...

i'm using 50s right now...and it goes up automagically with no spoiler...or at least i think they are 50s

ahahaha...good one

ok; i got a problem. Im installing them right now, and I placed the holes so that the trunk opens all the way. Only problem is that the shocks arent fully extended when the trunk is open. I can't get them onto the brackets. One is fine, but I need to depress them about 1/2 an inch to get them on the other one, and they're 50lbs, so its pretty impossible to compress them, then get them in place, then push them on the ball studs. I tried a big clamp thing, but the hardware on the ends is too big. Any suggestions? This is pissing me off; half hour of measuring, hour of doing, sitting at an hour and a half of trying to get these damn things on.

You just gotta muscle it in there man. I had 50# shocks too, and it is tough, but you can do it. The hardest part is the initial movement of them, once you get them in a little bit, it's easier to keep them in. Just push hard and fast at first, then they will go in. Good luck.

i layed on my back inside the trunk and attached the lower attachment point first...push hard and hold it...and then snap it on

got it! I used some vice grips to get some better grip on the shocks to compress them with. Then...snap! A note to anyone thinking about this; I have a completely stock coupe trunk lid, no spoiler. 50# will keep the lid completely stationary at any point bringing it up...until about 10" from the top, where it gently pulls it up and keeps it there. If I were you, I would get 60# with a no-spoiler coupe. Other than that, they work flawlessly! Thanks grey!

I have 50 pound ones on a stock trunk. No trunk springs. No wing. No anything else. Mine opens all the way and then it jerks up when it gets towards the end. Mine are a little too powerful. I will get a spoiler though, so it's all good. I also didn't have to compress them to get them in. I just open up my trunk all the way and I snap the trunk shocks in. Perfect measurement I guess. Then again, mine doesn't do the gentle thing like yours does. I'de like it to do that though. Hmm... Maybe after I get a spoiler? ???

i dunno...it is kinda nice that all the way up it stays where I put it...but I do like the concept of just pushing it up at the bottom and it does the rest. Oh well, this is better than a yardstick that I had before

UPDATE! It's now been two months after I installed them. They're still holding up fine, but have weakened a little bit. THey stay up fine once they're up there, but I now have to apply more pressure than I did (almost none previously) for them to go up. These are 50# on a bone stock coupe trunk lid. I would have gone with 60#s or even 70's if I were to do it again. Only hard part was compressing the shocks that 1/2 inch to get them to go on...

im just curious guys..
what is the purpose of this mod??
why would u need it??
im just wondering..nothing else

elminate trunk springs, and that allows for room for larger rear speaker magnets to be installed.

yup thats it. Without trunk springs the trunk doesnt stay up, like mine use to. Theyre also a lot better than the trunk springs even if you dont have bigger speakers; you can get like 80# ones and the trunk will open on its own.

Also, it keeps the trunk lid from hitting you in the head. I've had it on my sedan with no problems for about a year now.

if u were to put subwoofers in the back of the trunk towards the rear seat.......would these shocks get in the way of the box.......in other words, would u have to use a smaller box?

no. Theres other stuff in that space which hangs lower than the shocks; i have a picture of mine in the "my ride" section. It might be a little too close in for what you want to see, but you get the idea.

sorry off topic... that is the best pic!!!

i'm gonna do this DIY this weekend if i have time ... i bought 50# ... stock trunk with m3 style trunk lip ... should i take out the trunk springs or just leave it ??

i want to do this because i have remote trunk release ... so it'll be cool combination with the trunk shock