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I just wanted to post this in order to show that it is possible.
I used the factory steering wheel and cable reel to do this mod.
What I used is the Axxess Steering wheel adapter for aftermarket head units, 2006 Honda CRV Steering wheel controls(35880-S9A-A01ZA), and the bracket to hold the controls( do not have part number.
No functionality like horn, cruise control of airbag are lost in this modification. Everything will still work too.]

I am not responsible if you break anything while attempting this mod.
Here it is in action: Sorry for the bad diagrams in advanced I am not a simple person.
We are going to be messing with these three pin on the factory cable reel(clock spring). the first pin is empty, the second pin should be your 12v horn wire, and the third is the 12v to the cruise control.



What we are going to do is cut the current horn wire in both sides of the cable reel(on the steering wheel and on the steering column)* make sure you have enough wire left over.
We then connect the connector for the horn on to the 12v cruise control wire( It is the same wire and the horn and cruise control will still work after doing this).



Now solder a wire to the steering wheel side of the cable reel and add a connector(any kind of connector you want its for if you want to take the steering wheel off in the future without cutting wires).



now add a connector to the old horn wire. Now add a wire to the old horn wire on the steering column side and run it to the ground of the axxess adapter. Now add a female pin to the empty pin(pin 1) on the clock spring and if you are using the 2006 crv controls, then run the wire from pin 1 to the red and grey wire. Now the hard part comes, you now have to cut a hole for the controls on the opposite side of the cruise control. Once the hole is cut and the controls fit, then screw the bracket in(the steering wheel is basically asking for you to add controls, there is a place to screw the bracket in and everything). Wire the controls to the wires that you hacked into


and you are done.

 
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Sweet jesus, that's cool. Good DIY. Not too shabby for a first post. Hope you'll stick around.

Welcome to the forum

 
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This is a cool post. Good work and good thinking on how to adapt factory parts.

 
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Very Nice DIY, in my case i don't have cruise control, it is possible to do this mode without cruise control? If yes, then wiring scheme would be Epic, anyway Good job on DIY!

 
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That's pretty damn nifty.

 
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Awesome post! Way to use your noggin!

 
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You could do it without cruise control, you would just use the extra pins on the clock spring

 
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Hi, I would like to do this for my Civic, I don't have cc so won't need that, just the audio controls. I have a lovely wood/leather wheel from a 51 Accord which has both controls ready to fit, so I'm wondering if I would need a clock spring from an Accord or will the existing Civic one work with this method?

Cheers Jim

 
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Change the whole steering wheel at your own risk. Because you will not be able to use an airbag you probably could use the the accord clock spring, but I don't know if it will fit as I'm using the stock 7th gen civic. You are probably just going to have to do what I did for this project and just try it. If there is anything I can answer just reply to this.

 
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Did you cut pin #2 ORG on the 5pin white connector and made it connect to the ground wire if the Axxess? This wire is pin #2 WHT on the two pin of the CRV steering control that is connected to the old brown "horn" wire right?

Also where did you connect the pin #1 on the CRV steering control? Is that the wire that goes to pin #1 on the 5pin white connector? Where would it connect after that?

Thanks

 
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I cut pin 2(brown wire) on both sides of the clock spring and it does not matter which pin(1 or 2) is used for the ground and signal as long as they are the same on both sides of the clock spring. For my setup I connected pin 1 of the switch connected to pin 1 on the clock spring and pin 2 connected to the pin 2 on the clock spring. Sorry for the late response it has been a while since I have made this post.

 
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Has anyone actually done this mod before? Can you provide more details on what wires need to be cut/soldered? It's not clear on the original post.

 
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My Dad and I have done this to a few civics, and sorry about the lack of clarification on the post I did this mod when I was in High School so I wasn't the best at clarifying. Basically, the 7th gen clock spring has 1 unused terminal and the horn(brown) and cruise control(red) wire are literally the exact same connection electrically. So I used the brown horn wire and unused terminal to connect the radio control switch and connected the old horn switch wire to the red cruise control wire on the steering wheel side and did the same on the steering column side adding a pin to the harness for the unused terminal and cut the horn wire and spliced it for radio control switch. sorry for the weird explanation, but the horn still works great and cruise works great after 5 years. Let me know if you have any questions.

 
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Let me see if I can understand or clarify what you're saying.

1. On the steering wheel side, you're saying to cut the brown horn wire that has the black plastic 1 pin connector, right? And then connect the piece of brown wire that is connected to the 1 pin black connector to the red wire from the steering wheel cruise control switch, correct? I believe I see that connection from your picture.
2. With the other piece of brown wire that goes into the clock spring, you're saying to connect that to the ground of the Axxis steering wheel control connector? (Here is what I have a problem with, is the brown horn wire a 12V wire or a ground wire?) The Haynes manual I have says that the red steering wheel wire is connected to the orange wire on the steering column side, which is ultimately connected to the 10A fuse 7 under the hood, which is hot all the time. It passes by the under-dash relay/fuse box (connected to the multiplex control unit), then goes from the under-dash fuse box to the under hood relay box, which is hot all the time. It sounds like the red wire is 12V. Why, then, would the 12V brown wire connected to the clock spring that we cut then be connected to the ground of the Axxis SWC unit? That should be connected to the 12V hot from the Axxis SWC unit, no?
3. You're saying that there is an empty slot on the clockspring connector, which I see. On the steering wheel side, that gets connected to the what?
4. On the steering column side, you're saying to cut the brown horn wire. Where does that get connected to?

Questions:
1. On the steering wheel column side, what color is the horn wire? Brown?
2. There is, I assume, a two wire connector for the CRV steering wheel audio control switch. Where do those two wires get connected to?

 
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So I kind of answered my own question. The brown wire on the steering wheel side is connected to the orange wire on the steering column side.

 
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I will be doing this mod in the next week or so. Also, just so everyone knows, you need a clock spring from an LX and above Civic to do this mod. The clock spring for the DX and VP is different, and does not have the connectivity on the steering wheel and steering column side that the LX and above does.

 
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Updated directions that are more clear:

Steering wheel side:

1. Take off the three philips-head screws at the bottom of plastic steering wheel column covers.
2. Open the hood and remove the ground connection on the battery. Set your clock for at least 4 minutes. This allows the residual electrical energy to dissipate that might trigger the airbag.
2. Take off the T30 torx bits on either side of the steering column that hold the air bag in.
3. Slowly take off the air bag, and unplug the yellow electrical connector.
4. Cut a roughly 3" tall by 2.5" hole (measurement not exact) on the left side of the steering wheel cover.
5. Screw in the radio volume control metal bracket (P/N 78517-S5A-N81) (#8 in picture below) on the left side of the steering wheel.
6. Screw in the audio remote switch assembly (what Honda calls it; P/N 35880-S9A-A01ZA Black color) (#2 from picture below) from the external side hole you just cut from step #4 onto the metal bracket you screwed in from step #5.
7. Looking at the inside of the steering wheel, cut the single brown wire and solder it to the red wire from the cruise control switch. Don't worry - the cruise control, horn, and audio remote switch assembly will work just fine by doing that. You're basically just connecting one 12V source to another.
8. If you got the cable reel sub wire (P/N 77901-S9A-A00) from the 2005-2006 Honda CRV from Honda or from the junk yard, cut the left side of it (green line). See illustration below:

9. Using the cut brown wire from step #7 above that GOES INTO THE CLOCK SPRING (i.e. NOT the brown wire that is connected to the red cruise control wire), connect that to the WHT wire from the audio remote switch assembly.
10. Solder another wire to one end of the YEL wire on the audio remote switch assembly that you cut in step #7 above.
11. Solder the OTHER end of the wire that is now connected to the YEL wire from step #10 above to the blank spot on the cable reel. The blank spot is in between the brown wire and white wire on the cable reel clock spring assembly. In the first post, it's represented by a green wire in picture #2.
12. You're now complete on the steering wheel side.


Steering Column Side:
1. On the steering column side, you should have two orange wires. Cut the orange wire from pin #2 from picture #1 in the original post. For orientation, the connector is facing you, and from your position in the driver's seat, the right most pin (pin #1) is empty.
2. Solder the orange wire that you cut from step #1 above to the other orange wire from pin #3. You should now have two orange wires going into a single pin #3.
3. Connect the other side of the orange wire that you cut in step #1 that is CONNECTED TO THE CLOCK SPRING to the ground wire of the Axxess steering wheel adapter.
4. Connect the other wire from the Axxess steering wheel adapter to pin #1 on the steering column side (the right most and empty pin on the steering column side). You may need a female connector of some sort to connect it to the empty pin #1.

Now put everything back, and make sure the wires don't interfere with the airbag being put back. Have fun!

 
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appreciate the write up, might have to snag a SWC from a CRV from the junkyard!

 
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I just found mine today in decent condition. For the remote audio steering wheel assembly, the metal bracket, screws, and the T-harness, I paid $9.60.

 
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So I hooked up the wires on the steering wheel side today, and took some great pictures on what you need to do.
After you install the audio remote switch, you should see the following picture on your steering wheel:

Thr single brown wire is the one we need to cut. Snip it:


Once you cut it, you will connect the part of the brown wire to the red steering wheel wire. The brown wire is connected to the horn (i.e. connected to the black connector on the upper left of the steering wheel). In the picture below, you can see the brown wire connected to a blue wire (a little blurry) connected to a red short wire, connected to the red cruise control wire. See picture below:


In the picture above, see that cut brown wire? We now want to connect that to the white wire from the audio remote switch, like below ( you can solder it or just make the wire thicker and put it into the white connector from the audio remote switch):


You're almost done on this side of the steering wheel! Hooray!

Now, the most difficult part. You have to take off the steering wheel with a 19mm socket and T-30 torn bit (for the 4 brass screws) in order to solder a wire to the clock spring. In the picture below, you can see a thicker red wire that I soldered. The ticker wire helps keep it in place once the black plastic cover piece is added back in. I did that, and see below (this is the underside of the clock spring on the steering wheel side):

Now, you're going to connect this new, thicker red wire to the yellow wire from the audio remote switch. See below:

I added some hot glue to that connection so it would stay.

Now, you're done on the steering wheel side! Congrats!

More to come!

 
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your efforts are appreciated my dude, thanks for the pics!!

 
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No problem! Once I get the SWC box from Axxis, I will install it and connect it to see if it works.

 
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Need help folks. The Axxis SWC-1 does not turn on at all. I thought I followed the instructions from the Axxis website and the OP instructions.

The ground from the SWC-1 is the black wire, which is supposed to (according to the OP) white wire of the audio remote switch on the steering wheel. The grey/red wire from the SWC-1 was supposed to go to the yellow wire of the audio remote switch on the steering wheel. That is how I have it.

The red wire from the Axxis SWC-1 goes to the +12V accessory wire, which it does. The SWC-1 is not powering on. I confirmed that it is getting power via the red +12V accessory wire. I suspect it has something to do with the ground wire and where that is hooked up.

Can someone confirm that the black Axxis ground wire goes to the white audio remote switch wire on the steering wheel that has actually this working?

 
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SWC-1 black ground wire goes to bith the chassis ground and the yellow wire in the audio remote switch on the steering wheel.

 
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Can you use a crv clock spring in place of the civic one so you don’t have to cut any wires and have clean connections? Has anyone tried this?

 
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You would likely be the first.

 
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Anyone done something similar on a 6th gen?

More specifically, I am looking for buttons that will look and feel factory. Not worried about the electrical.

The ones from the CRV don't really match, but it's been the best candidate so far.

 
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I just did this and it works great but one thing I learned is that for an 04-05 you have to get a 01-03 clock spring cause you can't open up a newer one. Also don't use T-taps for everything cause it will introduce too much resistance into the circuit and cause airbag light code 1-1. I did leave the T-tap for the the two orange wires on the harness and the airbag light still went away.

summary of connections because this is the most horrendous yet coolest post I've ever seen.
1. Yellow wire of SWC > middle pin of clock spring > pin 1 of white harness > wire of adapter
2. White wire of SWC > cut brown horn wire of clock spring > pin 2 of white harness > ground wire of adapter (black)
3. red 12v wire of adapter to 12v source ( I T-taped mine into radio's source)
4. black horn connector > red wire of cruise control (military splice)
5. orange wire from pin 2 of harness > orange wire from pin 3 of harness (T-tap or military splice)

some advice i can give is:
1. go the junk yard and get extra wire harnesses cause you need an extra terminal for pin 1 and they are not easy to take out. get a pick set from harbor freight and youtube an ECU depinning video
2. get an extra horn wire to use so you can have some extra length because you have to cut yours.
3. Use a multi meter to test continuity before installing your modified clock spring.

 
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I was able to perform this mod with only 2004 Honda Odyssey audio SWCs (all I could find and has OEM look) and scrap wire from an old power source. Soldered the scrap wire to the SWCs backside of the two long prongs. With careful wire gauge selection, it is possible to run the positive (yellow) SWC wire directly into the clock spring without soldering because the sheathing of the wire fits so snug it has to be forced in with finesse 3 to 4 inches or so, I trimmed the sheathing off the tip ~1 inch and folded in back in on itself to double the thickness of exposed copper. As another poster mentioned, the 2004/2005 clock spring cannot be taken apart, so without purchasing a new one this is the only way.

Would recommend doing behind the steering column first and verify continuity on pins 1 and 2 mentioned above that run to axxios, however, if your stereo supports SWC training/learning then axxios is not required, I did not use it. Tap directly into stereo ground and key1/key2 as seen in attached. Wiring schematics may differ for your unit.


After finishing in front of steering wheel verify continuity on the wire end that t-tap into stereo line. I t-tapped everything and used butt connector to connect SWC ground to the cut horn wire and received no error codes for airbags, horn works and cruise control as well. After training the SWC from display works like a charm. Thanks for the idea!