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but only for coupes

 
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riceboi I NEED A LINK to those. ME LIKEY

 
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fixed the pics

 
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where did you get those at and do they make them for the 01-03 models?

 
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its just ebay led tails. fits 01-05 civic coupe but you may need some new sockets or rewiring for 01-03.

 
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i thought that. i figured if i was to get those i would have to wire them up like people do when they put 04-05 tails in there 01-03

 
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there on ebay. but they were made for the 04/05. so ur gonna needa do a 04/05 conversion. (basically just buy the turn signal sockets from the 04/05)

 
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thanks gearbox for fixing the pics.

UPDATE. i recomend a 100K resistor not 10K too much current goes thought it with the brakes on and can burn out the resistor.

 
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at least you would know if it burns out tho right cause the cruise will stop working again

 
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Question: My CC is still not working and I can't get it to work. Cruise button light stay on when pressed but try to set the speed it doesn't hold the speed at all.

Checked the CC wiring/cables and everything looks good.

I have stock bulbs.

Would this mod fix my CC even though I'm running stock? What is this 4th light mod you guys or rather that other guy talking about? Easier the fix the better.

I drive a '98 LX.

 
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I know this thread is way old, but I just did this with my car. The CC box really is a pain in the ***, but I discovered that by lightly taping in a razor blade all around the edge, it makes opening the box a whole lot easier, took me less than 5 minutes to do it and didn't damage the box at all.

 
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No worries. Things like this where you found a faster/easier/better/more efficient way to to a DIY are always welcome for bumping old threads.

 
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100K sounds good. But what is the wattage? 1/4W? 1/2W? 1W? 2W?

 
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i would go no less than 1/2 watt. simply because it's a direct conect between brake 12v and gnd when brakes applied. it's esentaly a heater when it's on.

 
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So is 1W better?

I know NOTHING about resistance.

The only resistance I know is when I'm trying to bust a move and the chickie isn't into it. Yeah, it's like I'm the persister and she's the resister.

 
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the wattage does not affect the resistor's actual ohm value. all it does is tell you how well the resistor can dissipate heat without frying itself. when using the same resistance ohm value, its usually wiser to pick the higher watt version. they will get thicker and bigger as you go up, so eventually size becomes an issue. and for many things like 5mm leds, a 1/2w is more than you will ever need. if you are making leds for a closed area, then it would be better to use the higher watt resistors so they can handle the extra heat buildup.

 
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sorry to revive this thread again but im having trouble taking the cruise control box apart. ive tried using the razor blade and it still doesnt look close to opening. is there some sort of glue holding it together?

 
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Hi gearbox:
I did this mod but I ended up getting 100k 1/8 watt resistor. I did not realize until now that you said 1/2 watt. But I did find out that if you use an 1/8 watt resistor it does not work. It is the same no cruise control. Put a third brake light filament bulb in and cruise worked again. So I am assuming the 1/8 watt ones won't work.......
Thanks

 
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Does this fix also fix the issue the LED lights create with the automatic trans? The trans simulates a slipping trans when LED lights are installed. From what i understand, the lights mess up the voltage reading for the kickdown to first gear. I re-installed the oem lights until that issue is solved too. Ill give this a shot and see how it affects the trans kickdown. I'll update afterwards unless someone has the answer already.

 
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I'm a few years too late, but I just did the LED tail lights and experienced this issue as well. Obviously cruise control no longer functioned, but also taking off from a stop simulated slipping in 1st gear (auto trans) and while sitting in park without the foot on the brake pedal, you could constantly hear the locking mechanism in the shift selector clicking because it wasn't sure if your foot was on the pedal or not. This would allow you to shift out of park without depressing the pedal.

I did not do this mod since I was not sure if it would fix the other 2 issues unrelated to cruise. I ended up installing the load resistors at the bulbs and mounting them to the frame for heat dissipation. I would have liked to tried this mod to see if it fixed the other issues too, but was in a time crunch to get the car acting normal again for a long drive so load resistors was the quickest solution.

 
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Which light (Brake light or signal?) and what specific wires did you attached the resistor to?