Rep Power: 0

Had one of those days at yesterday's autocross. The good news was that my first run was pretty good, quite a bit better than they usually are. The bad news was that I got to anxious on my second run and drove AT an apex cone instead of around it. On run 3 I drove through an early transition too fast and unloaded the rear right where the course goes from level to slightly downhill. Ugh. Spun 180, didn't get the clutch in very fast, and stalled. Took 2 tries to get it started, and I turned back onto the course (no cones!) and kept going. Oil light was off but check engine light was on. And it must have gone into a "limp home" mode because the rev limiter kicked in at 3000rpm. So I cruised the rest of the course and went back to paddock, turned it off for a bit, then started it and reved it slightly in neutral, engine light still on but no rev limiter at 3000. Finally disconnected/reconnected the battery and the engine light cleared, and no other problem on the way home.

I've never really thought about what happens when you spin but I'm guessing the computer doesn't want the engine to spin backwards so it shuts down and gives the check light? I've never heard of anyone doing engine damage by spinning but now I'm curious...

Chris

 
Rep Power: 380

Never had it kick on the CEL.. but I have stalled it in a spin. For some reason fuel injected cars dont like starting right after a spin, dont know why, but it allways seems to take a few trys to get it to crank over.

as far as your CEL kicking on... could have simply been the Oil PSI going way low. It use to happen to me alot even on the street (had a problem with the vtec contoler and oil psi. Basically, the vtec solonoid wouldnt get enough oil preasure and it would cause a CEL and go in to "limp" mode. to get it to reset I'd have to let the car sit for a little bit. next time I started the car the CEL would still be on but the car wouldnt be in "limp mode" as the Vtec solonoid was getting the psi it needed. then the next time the car was started the CEL would go off. Wierd, but I finally got it fixed. Had something to do with both the Solonoid not sending the right code to the ECU. along with the ECU not reacting correctly to the code when it was sent... Had to replace both to fix it.


Not sure if thats your problem though, could have just been the momentary loss of oil psi when you spun.

 
Rep Power: 0

I think you're spot on, the oil light took a second to go off when it finally cranked, about the same length of time as when you start after an oil change. Everything seems fine now so I guess I won't worry about it. Just need to find the radio code in my file cabinet...

Thanks
Chris

 
Rep Power: 0

I had this happen in my RSX and I know exactly what you're talking about. Acctually, the code will more then likely be a crank position sensor. You probably had a reverse rev for a couple degrees.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, that makes sense. It's hard to believe Honda wouldn't have protective measures like that in place, most people that have lived around snow or ice have a spin story.

 
Rep Power: 380

Well... all you really have to remember is this fun little ryme..

When you spin, Both feet in!

your engine will thank you later for not making it spin backwards...