PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

It seems like most everyone on this board has given up on our cars as far as performance goes, but hitting the autox track I realized that a cars potential does not lie in its 0-60, or quarter mile times. I was very impressed with how well my car performed and I would like to see us 7thgeners get some more respect out on the racetrack. I want to start a serious autox thread about parts, and performance. I want to know what works, and what doesnt, and how everyone is faring in their local chapters. I was thinking this because I know that those 90 Civic Si guys have winning down to a formula, and they know what spring rates, shocks, sway bars, etc they need to win, and I want the same for us. So basically, what does everyone have, how are they doing, and what is going to help them do better?

2003 civic ex coupe, k@n FIPKII intake, Revo SS, Neuspeed front strut, RSX rear sway, sportline springs, tokico d spec shocks, spc camber kit, 205/40/17's with wanli rubber.

My first autox went a lot better than planned. I beat a handful of people but I know I can do better. I placed towards the end of STS and I was about 12 seconds off of the leader, but I did cut 13 seconds from my first to last run. Over time I want to get a pair of 15 inch rota slipstreams with kuhmo mxs (need all seasons because I dont have room for two sets of wheels), a fatter rear sway bar, a rear disc conversion with hawk pads all around, and maybe go to some ground controls with custom spring rates. What spring rates would you all suggest, what other mods, what isnt working for me, what kind of camber adjustments should I make, tires, wheels??. Lets get the ball rolling!

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Yeah... don't do the rear discs. Its not worth it to run in STX. I only did it for open tracking.

Everyone pretty much knows my shiz by now, but...
Koni Yellows
Custom GCs - 375/ 525+1"
Tein Camber Plates
Hotchkis Rear Camber Arms
Comptech 22mm Sway Bar
Stock 25mm front sway bar
Neuspeed Upper Front bar
Cusco upper rear (not sure it does anything)
DIY lower rear tie bar
Hawk HP+ pads and Autozone rotors - front
Si Discs w/ honda pads - rear
Russell SS Brake Lines
15x6.5" Esses Speedmasters w/ Azenis

Alignment -2.25 F, -1.6R, no toe

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

What are your opinions on chasis reinforcements Boilermaker? I want to do the Nuespeed X brace, and a local company is developing bars that connect behind the front seats that I am interested in as well. Also, what are your opinions on tire width, would you go to 7 inches if you had the chance?

gangrel138

I ran with a 225/50/15 on 15x7 wheels my last AutoX. Although I had a lot of grip my tires stuck out farther and I found I was disturbing cones a lot more than usual. The other thing I'm working on is using the E-brake to slide the car a little better around the slalom sections. I still don't have it down yet but I think I could shave another second or two off my times at the next meet.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Technically, you can't do either of those if you want to stay in STS. Any bar has to go between the struts. I mean you can be a "cheater" but no one will complain unless you get competitive.

It depends on the class you want to be in. Mod for the class not for yourself or you will end up in a class where you are not competitive. Technically a CF hood will throw you into Street Mod against turboed vettes and swapped civics.

I would suggest 15x7 rims with some Azenis will really help.
Don't do the rear disk conversion - Get upgrade rotors (brembos/powerslots) and pads (Hawk, Axxis) and Dot 4 brake fluid.
Get an alignment close to what justin is running.

See how those things work first. Then start changing other parts. Don't get new springs/shocks if you don't need too. A larger rear sway is pretty good, but again wait until you have tested it with better tires and an alignment.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Who taught you to use the e-brake in autox. You should NOT be using the E-Brake in autox or even track days.

gangrel138

I haven't been. But the guys at the track were suggesting it. I've been trying to use my brakes a little better and then gunning it once the car is straightened out. I tried the E-brake a couple times but it seemed to hurt more than it helped.

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

Thanks RobbClark. Im not really set on getting anything new, just want to figure out the absolute best setup for our cars, even if I wont be running it. I know everyones opinion on upgrading before you master the driving aspect of autox, and I intend to run out the rest of this season with my current setup, but there are some things I am considering changing for next season.

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

PS: how come the big three autoxers on this board all have silver coupes?

Day_Tripper

Yea i'm really impressed with my car in auto x all I have is a 2.5" drop and a dc upper strut bar and she turns real nice

PrecisnTec

iTrader: (2)

Make it 4.

I loved the way my car handled just by adding a front sway bar and front set of Falken Azenis. I ran highly inflated street tires in the rear. For that extra oversteering effect. needless to say my 2nd autox out in it I took 1st place for HS.

gangrel138

SSHHH. It's a secret. LOL

Day_Tripper

Mine is beige and I auto x

Zzyzx

Learn Left foot braking. its more controlable, and you can play the brakes off the gas for smoother transitions.

nick95673

iTrader: (13)

i am a reformed newb. i have already purchased the i\h\e in an attempt to be another white boy from the burbs ricer. and have since gone back to stock and didnt notice any power loss. so i dont want to make the same mistake twice. if i upgrade my handling and suspension for auto-x what is the order in which i should purchase items? what brands are the best? what brands give the biggest bang for the buck? and which ones should we stay away from?

Day_Tripper

Stay away from anything APC

nick95673

iTrader: (13)

well yeah i know if they carry it at kragen its probably not a great upgrade. and dont they just make some sweet stickers!

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

What rotor and pad combos are working the best for everyone?

Zzyzx

step 1. Go to an autocross with the car AS IS. infact go to a dozen autocrosses with the car as is. Learn the cars limits, learn your limits. Learn to adjust your driving to maximise the cars limitations.

Step 2. go out and buy some good tires. the right tires will do more to reduce lap times then any other part. for the stock or Modified classes check out Kumho Victoracers, V700's or V710's (V710s are the gripiest) or get some Hoosier A3S04 or A3S05's. For the Street touring classes your looking at Falken Azenis RT-615's, Kimho MX, and a few others that just poped up this year. for wheels, in the Modifieds I'd run 14X7's or 14X8's(if I could get the right offset. for Street touring run 15X7's.

Step 3. Buy a set of Koni Yellows. and Learn to tune with them.

Step 4. Get a good alignment.

ect ect ect.....

theres really too much to list.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

It's all a crap shoot really. I mean justin, spencer and I all have different parts and different skill levels. You just have to mod somewhat for yourself and somewhat for the class. If you want a part, do your research and see what is the best for you and what will help you get better times within the rules.

Not to mention the competition in each area greatly differs. Justin and Spencer are lucky to have 10-12 people in STS, whereas here we have least 25 each time. If I had known about autox before I started modding, I would have done a lot differently. Now I don't have the money to change **** around, but oh well.

I have powerslot slotted rotors, axxis ultimates, and superblue DOT4 fluid. I need a fuild change, but other than that they have worked great. Any good (brembo, powerstop, powerslot, stoptech, etc) slotted or blank rotor will do. As for pads, stay away from EBC. Hawk, PBR (axxis), porterfield, cobalt have known to be good pads. Axxis are probably the cheapest out of all them and perform just as well.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never EVER use the e-brake in a competitive driving event.
Learn how to drive with 2 feet. Don't ever do something that intentionally causes a loss of control.

Day_Tripper

Another tip is to go slow your first go to learn the course some people gun it and get lost their first go... it's worth it to go slow figure out where your going then progress in speed in your next go's

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

My very first run I went slow and thought that I was just a really good driver until I finished with a time of 84 seconds, which was 24 seconds off of the leader in sts

Day_Tripper

haha thats awesome

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

Jeeze, STS is a cluster f*** here in Denver with the top 4 drivers all being 89 and 90 civic Si's. There were at least 25 the other weekend.

Zzyzx

It brings up the old saying "If you cant beat them Join them"... and considering an old civic can be had for less then $4,000.... theres really very little reason not to. personally, I'd like to find an 88 CRX si, Prep it for ST2, and go beat up on a bunch of miatas.

PoorCollegeBoy

iTrader: (2)

Seriously... if i didnt need a reliable daily driver I would look into getting an old miata, crx, or civic si

P40vic

Yeah, it's pretty clear that if you want to be driving new(er) cars, the stock classes are the place to be since modern cars keep getting better and better as far as handling. Shoot, the mini cooper pretty much owns 2 stock classes. There are a few newer cars in STS that look competitive nationally (Subi RS2.5, Celica GT) but it will always be hard to beat lighter older cars with such an outstanding front suspension ie 89-90 Civics/CRXs. And forget about DSP or FSP, you better have a old small light car or lots of $ for a BMW!

As far as suspension, some might disagree with me but IMHO it's all about front grip, and you can't do our struts the same as the old double a-arm civics because of our horrible camber curve. I'm think that if you're gonna go lowered, you better have big front spring rates, big front bar, and big front camber, ie Boilermakers setup. The national level WRXs have the same strut challenges, and they seem to do all three. IMHO the back is much simpler after the front is set, just match up spring rates and use enough bar to lift the inside rear on hard corners, tweek rear toe, etc. I'm gonna work up to big camber and big bars but no big springs because I don't think I could live with the ride. But the cheap mod is driving, I gave up at least a second on that bugger U turn at the last race!

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

have you guys who auto X ever had trouble with your axles? My left axle was leaking and I was wondering if it was attributable to a driving style or whether it was just some bad luck. I'm at about 22k miles on the car.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

With 22K, its probably a stroke of bad luck. You probably hit something and nicked the boot. I'm at 53K, Zzyzx has to be nearing 80 or 90 by now and I haven't heard anything out of him either. Autox, or any other activity that builds lots of heat and makes you turn a lot will probably wear you're outer CVs pre-maturely, but you should still make it quite a ways without issue.