Power window problem. Broken wire?
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Rep Power: 0 Power window problem. Broken wire?
So i had this problem with the passenger side window ever since I bought the car but the weather has been to cold so i didn't bother with it until now. Its a 1998 2 door civic (if it makes a difference)
The window goes up from passenger side switch but it doesn't go down.
The window doesn't go up or down from the drivers side switch
I took the door panel and checked the motor and it spins perfectly fine in both directions (with the window on the tracks), so I'm assuming its a broken wire.
I'd appreciate any suggestions. Also if you know of any diagrams that would help me trace those wires please let me know.
Thanks
The window goes up from passenger side switch but it doesn't go down.
The window doesn't go up or down from the drivers side switch
I took the door panel and checked the motor and it spins perfectly fine in both directions (with the window on the tracks), so I'm assuming its a broken wire.
I'd appreciate any suggestions. Also if you know of any diagrams that would help me trace those wires please let me know.
Thanks
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Rep Power: 176 Re: Power window problem. Broken wire?
check the wires on the driver side main switch cuz if those doesnt work the pass side wont work, use voltage meter to verify the main and slave switch (pass side) is sending voltage if not then i would think u might have an issue with the main switch,
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Also, what/where is the slave switch?
Thanks
Sorry for noob questions.
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Rep Power: 210 Re: Power window problem. Broken wire?
One thing at a time.
First, check the hinge boots. It's usually the driver's side. If you do find a broken wire you'll have to decide whether it's easier to run a new one thru the boot and splice it in right below the switch (master switch- driver's door, slave- pass door) or disconnect and pull the harness back thru to the interior and repair it there.
It's a tight fit but, you should be able to just fit your hand:
Sorry about the fuzzy pic, crappy phone cam.
Second, if it's not a broken wire then you're gonna have to do an input test on the master switch. Hence the PM you have now.
First, check the hinge boots. It's usually the driver's side. If you do find a broken wire you'll have to decide whether it's easier to run a new one thru the boot and splice it in right below the switch (master switch- driver's door, slave- pass door) or disconnect and pull the harness back thru to the interior and repair it there.
It's a tight fit but, you should be able to just fit your hand:
Sorry about the fuzzy pic, crappy phone cam.
Second, if it's not a broken wire then you're gonna have to do an input test on the master switch. Hence the PM you have now.
Last edited by lazlong; 05-20-2011 at 07:12 AM.
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One thing at a time.
First, check the hinge boots. It's usually the driver's side. If you do find a broken wire you'll have to decide whether it's easier to run a new one thru the boot and splice it in right below the switch (master switch- driver's door, slave- pass door) or disconnect and pull the harness back thru to the interior and repair it there.
It's a tight fit but, you should be able to just fit your hand:
Sorry about the fuzzy pic, crappy phone cam.
Second, if it's not a broken wire then you're gonna have to do an input test on the master switch. Hence the PM you have now.
First, check the hinge boots. It's usually the driver's side. If you do find a broken wire you'll have to decide whether it's easier to run a new one thru the boot and splice it in right below the switch (master switch- driver's door, slave- pass door) or disconnect and pull the harness back thru to the interior and repair it there.
It's a tight fit but, you should be able to just fit your hand:
Sorry about the fuzzy pic, crappy phone cam.
Second, if it's not a broken wire then you're gonna have to do an input test on the master switch. Hence the PM you have now.
OK, i checked the boots and i didn't see any broken wires. I actually took both fenders off to gain better access and there were no signs of damage on any of the wires.
You said the next step was to do an input test. How do i do this?
Thanks
#9
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Re: Power window problem. Broken wire?
The way the master and slave work together is... the master sends up/down (+ - or - +) to the slave switch, which when at rest sends the voltage direct to motor. 12 volts & ground is also supplied to slave switch so it can work the window up/down.
A few things you could do would be measure voltage to the motor and work back and also, see if you have the "down" voltage coming from the master.
A few things you could do would be measure voltage to the motor and work back and also, see if you have the "down" voltage coming from the master.
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Rep Power: 0 Re: Power window problem. Broken wire?
Sorry i was out of town for a few days.
I took the master and slave switch off and checked continuity at both switches and they are both fine. Other than that i don't really know how to do an input test. I've researched it but i could only find step by step instructions for the 5th generation civic. Are they different from each other or can i follow those instructions for my 6th gen?
Thanks. (rep points for all btw XD )
I took the master and slave switch off and checked continuity at both switches and they are both fine. Other than that i don't really know how to do an input test. I've researched it but i could only find step by step instructions for the 5th generation civic. Are they different from each other or can i follow those instructions for my 6th gen?
Thanks. (rep points for all btw XD )
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Now my question is what is the best way to fix this? I was thinking of just replacing that wire harness but idk where the other side ends. I'm hoping the whole thing is like 6 inches long (as it looks) and attaches to the exterior...and doesn't go through the chassis because it looks really difficult to fish a new one.
I would really appreciate if i got some feedback by tomorrow since i have the whole day off. But any day would be fine as well.
Thanks
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