Tony78

Hey everyone!

I have a problem with my power window on my 2002 Honda Civic LX coupe.

Its the passenger side window. Basically, I rolled my window down this Sunday and was cleaing the inside of my vehicle and when I went to roll it back up it would not work.

What I have done so far as trouble shooting:

I have checked fuses and they are fine. All other electrical components are working including the driver side power window and all power door locks and lights. I have taken the door panel off and checked all wires in the acual switch for power and the the first from left to right are hot as follows: the first, middle and last leads are hot. The two on each side of the middle are grounds to my knowledge and are not hot.

We connected the window switch and disconnected the lead to the window regulator motor and both are hot when the window switch is pressed up or down as if we were trying to roll the window up or down.

I have ordered and replaced the entire window regulator brand new and not a rebuilt item.

So I can only think of two options:
A bad new window regulator or a bad ground which I dont know how to check for.

I will test the bad window regulator out by taking my driver side regulator that is working and test it on the passenger side just to see if works there.

As far as how to test for the bad ground wire I welcome any advice or if it could be anything else please let me know.

Thank You
Tony

K/Turbo

Well if your window rolled down than means your window regulator is getting power. It's most likely your switches are bad.

When you use the down switch it supplies power to your window regulator.
When you use the up switch it supplies power also but the polarities are switch which causes the window to roll in the opposite direction.

Sounds like your up switch is not making a complete connection to make your window roll back up.

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

A dumb thing to ask, but you do have both the drivers and the passenger switches connected correct? Because (as you probably know) if your passenger door doesnt have the switch connected- the drivers side cannot put it up.

wallydude03

Check if there is corrosion on the button panel connectors. Thats what the problem was on mine when my passenger side didnt work:

Tony78

The new regulator came in a up position and when installed it would not go down or up still. I have check the power when the button was pushed to roll the window down and there it is definitly hot.

"A dumb thing to ask, but you do have both the drivers and the passenger switches connected correct? Because (as you probably know) if your passenger door doesnt have the switch connected- the drivers side cannot put it up."

Yes

ANd ill replace the switch today and see if that will fix it.

Thans for your help and if its still not working ill let you all know.

wallydude03

SO are you saying that you tested the motor power wires and there was power?
Did you try cleaning the corrosion off of the switch connector?

amoney

Well I am sort of in the same boat, I have run out of time for trouble shooting today will pickup tomorrow. I was pulling my damaged tint off inorder to be redone when I ran into my own issue and I am stumped.

OK, to begin with its a 2002 Civic EX sedan.

Left passanger window does not work as if there is no power. Neither driver power window switch nor passanger power switch do anything. All other windows work accordingly. Window lock was verified in correct position. I also verified the fuses.

Now this is my comment in regards to the original poster...

If it was a switch issue, wouldn't it be isolated and the other control switch for example the driver switch would work to operate the window?

So basicly if neither driver or passanger switch do anything... I think its a regulator, although in my experience I never seen a regulator just up and die, most time the guides or window clips get busted that prompt to replace the regulator.

Anyways, is there anything else, perhaps a ground issue as previously mentioned to chase, or do I just focus on it being the regulator.

Thanks for any thoughts.

amoney

Alright could not resist taking one last look before calling it a day.

I can confirm the is power flowing through all controll switches to there respective window motors.

I can distintively hear a "click" when I depress on the power window switches.

I can also confirm through use of the power window lock button when enabled, I do not hear the same power "click" sound. Note this tell tell sound is the same heard for all power windows whenpressing up. Obviously when I press down the remaining working 3 windows roll down, but for my problem window, I can hear the "click" of power at least trying to operate the motor.

So I guess I will have to wait till mondow to go to Honda. As if I do not already have enough on my plate.

Hope all have a good weekend.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I would try putting voltage direct to the disconnected plug going direct to the motor.

I used a long length of speaker wire ran direct to battery. My window won't budge and draws about 15-17 amps, (still afraid to buy reg/motor assy)

Don't leave in place too long if window not moving, Avoid contact with wires with fingers to avoid inductive kickback (shock when released)

amoney

Getting a jump start pulling the regulator, plan to purchase new part on Monday.

OK how in the world do you pull that crap out, I cant make heads or tails, kudos for honda making a simple regulator but my window is stuck in the up position and I can not get to the window bolts.

Its going to be impossible unless and get get the regulator to budge down to clear room to manuver the glass out.

Still searching for options...

amoney

So basically I unbolted everything so the entire assembly including window dropped. There was a small access hole to reach through and get the difficult 10mm window clip bolt (I suppose Honda made this hole for just this situation). I luckily had a tool that just barely fit through and released the window.

I folded up the cable slide and regulator and simply pulled out of the larger main access opening.

On a suspicion that the motor was simply jammed and plugged everything back together and two or three clicks of the switch and the motor began working again.

Now I dont know if this is just a sign of failure to come but at least I can keep the money in my pocket for now.

I had to quickly stop reassemply (and most important RETEST) due to a Florida thunderstorm, wish I had tested the assembly while still inside the door. But any how I have escaped at least for a moment having to spend money.

Now I have to go replace a family members hard drive in their old eMac (CRT version), They know they can geta Mac mini but we are going to give the eMac one last lease on life.

FYI I saved the white plastic liner by just pulling on the caulk did not take very long. keeping things as neat as possible. Just my preference.

;-)

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Makes me want to take my faulty drivers rear out now and have a look.

The access holes are in the door for the glass bolts (not much help if you can't get it there though)

vanser3004

Connect your master and passenger switches, then disconnect 2-wire-connector which runs directly to the passenger window-motor and check it for 12 and -12Volts between them. If there is no power and fuse #22-ok, Use wires from cigarette lighter or battery to jump 2-wire "motor connector" to see if it moves any direction (change polarity wires). If it doesn't move replace power window motor.
If it moves while you jumped motor: try to replace you Master switch, check wire-connectors for good connections , bend it (make tighter) with little flat screw-driver clean any corrosion. Check wires too. Then while "new" master and passenger switches connected, disconnect 2-wire connector of passenger motor and check 2 wires that run from switch for 12 and (-12) Volts between them - while you push UP and DOWN on Master's or Passenger's switches. If there is power check 2-wire connector by itself- there is could be bad connection - bend contacts and make connector tight.