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So i'm in the middle of an engine and transmission replacement. My old non vtec d17 and auto tranny were tired at 250,000 so i decided to swap in a vtec and manual trans. I didn't notice till now that the engine i'm installing has a EGR valve as my old one didn't.
Any one know what issues this is going to cause me ? Seeing i was pre EGR and my harness and ECU aren't looking for it, should i remove it and block it off ?

EDIT:
Im also using my 2003 auto ECU and harness at the moment. The VTEC will be controlled using a VAFC2. Ive got another ECU from a manual non-vtec im going to have reflashed for my key once im finished a swap

 
Rep Power: 517

Sounds like you could simply leave the EGR valve in place and unplugged, it would cause no problems that way.

Or swap the housings off the ends of the heads to eliminate the EGR mounting point.

 
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So Egr doesn't seem to be an issue. Got everything finished, just have to bleed the clutch line.

My idle is bouncy and high. I figure ive gotta do the idle relearn process, tried once without luck. The vehicle revs up to about 2500 at startup. I've idled till full temp, engine fan came on and i let it run a bit in order to burp the coolant system. Shut it down and remove the negative cable for 5 minutes.
The process im reading is to rev to 3K and hold for 6 Minutes, then let off accelerator and idle for 5 minutes. Restart car and drive as normal.

Problem being the idle is sitting around 2500 RPM, when I push the accelerator to get it up to 3000RPM and hold, the RPMS slowly rise. Let off the pedal and it will idle at 3000K for a few minutes, and then starts to fluctuate from 800-2500.

Ive scanned the engine, no codes. TPS voltage at closed is 9.4%


Any one with input on the idle relearn?

 
Rep Power: 517

That's not a voltage reading.
Stuck open IAC, and/or vacuum leaks?


Pull the lid off the air breather and reach in the throttle body and plug off the port with your fingers. Does that kill the engine, or bring the idle speed down a whole bunch? It should bring idle down a bit lower than correct, like about 600 or so. If it doesn't bring it down that far, look elsewhere for vacuum leaks.

Broke the plastic intake manifold?

 
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It ended up being that my heated mirrors were switched on and that extra voltage draw was throwing off the idle relearn. Running beautifully now

 
Rep Power: 517

You got heated ears? You must be in Canada?
Yes that would have been an electrical load. Odd, I wouldn't have expected that to make so much difference, but glad you figured it out.

 
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I have an 01 Honda Civic EX the motor is a D17a2(that I've been told) and the head is outof a D17a1 I have no EGR but I do have the plug in on top of the head to plug it in I do not have the coolant housing that supports the EGR does the A1 head have the piping to support the EGR or do I need to get a new head? I've also found you could delete the EGR and possibility of doing so because a new head is coming around $400 when a motor is $600 and I don't really have the tools to do this please help!!!!!

 
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Not sure how this relates. But I bought a d17a from Japan from a co. Here in town. Had lots of troubles along the way, being that the old motor was locked up the crank shaft wouldn't turn so getting the transmission of was a bitch. Swapped couple things like the new motor didn't have cruse control, swapped the intake, the egr canister was different, swapped it. Just like ezone told me. Just make the new motor look exactly like the old one. Did the water pump and timing kit, new axels control arms and bushings. I'm not a mechanic by no means. So week ago when filled fluids and turned the key. The dang thing turned right on! Now my problem is, it has problems shifting if I don't let of the gas it acts like it's redline that gear. There's a code for the v tech. It clears but comes right back on. Driving it to work couple days and seams like doesn't go into overdrive (5 gear). I have one harness plug that has no place to plug in. Any clue what's going on?

 
Rep Power: 517

Missing VTEC parts is gonna cause all kinds of headaches. Get the correct cylinder head or have your original fixed if possible.


the parts for EGR can be swapped from one head to the other as needed.

You put in a D17A? If it has the VTEC solenoid but no pressure switch for the VTEC, you need to swap that switch from the old one onto your new unit. (I assume the stray 2-wire connector is near that)

It's a 4 speed not 5. With lockup converter which might make it feel like a 5th gear shift.
Got any fault codes for the trans? P0740 code?

Is the shift complaint because of the low rev limiter set because of the vtec code?

 
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Yes sir ! it absolutely is a 2 pin connector. The shift seams compliant, as long as I don't "hit the gas". No tranny code. Only the one 1259. I'm up when I should be sleeping.. Hopefully with some help I'll have some time this weekend to really dig in to what the heck I did wrong this time..
So ok, did I install an incorrect d series motor? I'll

 
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Oh yeah. So what kind of damage am I doing driving it the way it is?

 
Rep Power: 517

Not really, you just didn't swap enough parts to make it exactly like the engine you took out.

You can't make the computer happy if it can't find all the working parts it's supposed to connect with.

I can't answer that.

If my cars redline was only 3000 I'd be pizzed. Fix that and see how the trans acts afterwards.

 
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hi boss i need some help!!
2001 civic d17a1 without egr valve to swap into cheap d17 (non vtec) with egr valve to be swapped. what other things are needed to be done or could i just swap it and leave the egr valve unplugged and it would be fine?

 
Rep Power: 366

if your ecu is for a non-egr, just plug any openings and swap in
it will just be dead weight.

it was already answered in the 2nd post

 
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I second the above. Leave unplugged or remove housing.