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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744141)
Right. How TF did you manage to blow out a heater core? I've not seen one do that here (yet). Got a failure analysis done yet? Was it running straight water for years? Cooling system rot/corrosion? Pipe flex/breakage? |
What is the benefit of aluminium control arms?, I need new bushings in my rear lower control arms, there is literally almost no rubber left. So my question is if there would be a benefit to getting new aluminium control arms that have poly bushings preinstalled instead of replacing the bushings in the OEM steel control arms. I presume that the aluminium control arms are a little lighter. I can get a set of aluminium control arms for $80, so if there is a benefit, I am going to replace the whole control arms instead of screwing with bushings. Thanks. |
Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure. UPDATE: I unplugged and cleaned all the connections behind the dash. Then I removed the very wet PCM, took its circuit board out, and sprayed it down with electronics cleaner. I let everything dry, and reassembled it. After I reinstalled the PCM, everything is back to normal. Thanks for your help! |
Re: What is the benefit of aluminium control arms?, they are lighter. flashy colors |
Re: What is the benefit of aluminium control arms?, Lighter is about it. If you hit something it will crack instead of bend so be careful! |
What size fuse do I need? About a year ago, I put my battery in the trunk. It’s an Optima Yellowtop D34 if it matters, and I used 2 gauge copper welding wire. It just occurred to me that I probably should have a fuse on one of the battery cables for safety. But I’m not sure what amperage fuse I would need. So what amperage fuse do I need? I am thinking I will put my amp clamp around one of the battery cables and measure the amperage the starter draws while someone is cranking the engine, and get a fuse a little larger than the amperage the car pulls from the battery when its cranking. Is that a good idea? Thanks. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? What was the factory fuse size for the main fuse and the starter? Use that. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? 1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Colin42
(Post 4744310)
What was the factory fuse size for the main fuse and the starter? Use that. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? There you go |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by Colin42
(Post 4744312)
There you go |
Re: What size fuse do I need? Before you get yourself into a basket again, you should follow a wiring diagram to understand for yourself which circuits the 80 amp fuse actually covers. There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get. The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744314)
Before you get yourself into a basket again, you should follow a wiring diagram to understand for yourself which circuits the 80 amp fuse actually covers. There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get. The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744316)
So should I measure how many amps it draws when cranking with my amp clamp and report back? |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744317)
I don't think you understood what I wrote. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? 2 Attachment(s) did you ever see the inside of a MEGA fuse? all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this: Attachment 112160 i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night. Attachment 112161 a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744319)
So are you saying I should just forget the fuse?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744314)
There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by RobertD
(Post 4744320)
did you ever see the inside of a MEGA fuse? all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this: Attachment 112160 i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night. Attachment 112161 a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse. |
Re: What size fuse do I need? WHY did you put the battery in the rear of the car anyway? |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744309)
About a year ago, I put my battery in the trunk. . The big reason people would relocate the battery to the trunk 40 years ago was to get it away from the heat of the big V8s of the day and to help with weight transfer. Do you want more traction on your rear drive wheels in a civic? Have you been told that a rear drive conversion was a good idea and you need weight on the rear wheels? Weight in the back of a front drive car is fairly well pointless. You want a realistic answer? The fuse to properly protect the car and still supply power to the starter would be large enough to allow the cable to arc weld the cable and still not blow the fuse. Maybe you should spend some time reading how rear mounted batteries are protected in NHRA approved setups. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744324)
WHY did you put the battery in the rear of the car anyway? |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744327)
Better weight distribution and more room under the hood. My Optima battery weighs nearly 50 pounds, and that’s a lot of weight to have over the front of an already front heavy car. That’s about 2% better weight distribution. The car corners noticibly better with the battery in the trunk. All the best tuner poseurs have it :rolleyes: |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744321)
Cranking amperage will blow those fuses in a heartbeat. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by RobertD
(Post 4744340)
i actually had the one pictured on my mustang for a few years without it blowing, which suprised me.. it's supposedly a "slow blow" so maybe that helps? when i relocated the battery to the trunk(since in a rwd drag car) i was terrified to just have a thick power cable from a 600a battery running to the front. the car is shakey and violent so over time everything either chafes, loosens, or just falls off. the wimpy fuse was the best do on short notice It's not about the melting point of the solder, (because now your solder is effectively a shunt)...... it's about the amount of current that can flow through it (the critical part of the fuse PLUS the solder glob) before it gets hot enough to melt both parts and open the circuit. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4744342)
Your solder blob upped the amperage capacity of the fuse significantly higher than the stamped rating. It's not about the melting point of the solder, (because now your solder is effectively a shunt)...... it's about the amount of current that can flow through it (the critical part of the fuse PLUS the solder glob) before it gets hot enough to melt both parts and open the circuit. |
Re: What size fuse do I need?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744344)
You are completely correct. |
How do I install head studs with the head on? I am going to install ARP head studs, but without removing the head. My question is how do I do it? I emailed ARP, and they said to change the bolts one at a time in the factory sequence. They said to start by torquing the nuts to 40 ft lbs, and then torque them all to 60 ft lbs in the factory sequence once they are all in. Does that make sense? It does to me, but I'm not sure. Thanks. |
Re: How do I install head studs with the head on? I would suggest it also be done with engine at room temperature |
Re: How do I install head studs with the head on?
Originally Posted by Slumpertcivic
(Post 4744414)
I would suggest it also be done with engine at room temperature |
Re: How do I install head studs with the head on?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4744407)
I am going to install ARP head studs, but without removing the head. My question is how do I do it? I emailed ARP, and they said to change the bolts one at a time in the factory sequence. They said to start by torquing the nuts to 40 ft lbs, and then torque them all to 60 ft lbs in the factory sequence once they are all in. Does that make sense? It does to me, but I'm not sure. Thanks. |
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