Rep Power: 0

A friend of mine is installing my VAFC and my civic keeps throwing a check engine light. I am 99% certain that the connections are in the pins shown on the diagram on the apexi site. Im thinking that one of them may be lose so he is going to solder all of the connections. What is wierd is when I re-connect my battery and turn the key to the on postion (no ignition) the check engine light comes on and then after about 10 sec. it flashes 5 times and goes out. Does these 5 flashes represtent a the code that my car is throwing. Any help would be awsome.

thanks,
sicsol

 
Rep Power: 330

Did he hook up the VTEC controller? The VTEC controller on the VAFC is not compatible with our cars yet....just disconnect the VTEC controll....

-Mystic

(I'm 90% sure im right, but this is just from reading other posts on this topic....feel free to correct me)

 
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the VTEC controller is not compatible?! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG]

 
Rep Power: 330

[QUOTE]Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: Diemos

Not as far as I know....i've read a couple posts where people tried the VTEC controller, and it just causes the engine light to come on....the SAFC and the VAFC with no VTEC active work for the fuel controll and stuff though.....there are previous threads on this....I dont feel like finding a link, so feel free to search...hehe.

-Mystic

 
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I did a search and several people have gotten the VAFC to control vtec, but I can't find any information on the engine code and I do not have a code reader aviable to me.

 
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Ok, this is my theory. I have the V-AFC, my check engine light does come on, and when I reset the ECU it goes away. So, I am having a similar problem.
The flashing at the end just means your ECU dosen't have your emissions system fully worked out(not adjusted yet), everytime you reset your ECU this is going to happen.
The V-AFC does work on the car.
The only theory I can say is something to do with the temperature, because after the car is on for 5-10 minutes, it is warmer.

Anyone else have any ideas?

 
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Ill tell you now from experience that the vtec is compatible cause it works perfect on my VAFC. make sure the connections are sodered. mine are and the connection is better that way i was told. I had no problem with the engine light coming on either. Might get that checked out just to be sure cause i wouldnt want you to blow your engine cause if u dont hook it up right it will happen cause my friend did it in his 2000 civic.
good luck

JAKE

 
Rep Power: 405

yea my car is the same way. the check engine light comes on all the time. and now almost every time i turn on the car the car wont go over 4000 rpm. i have to turn my car off and on just so i can go over 4000. the v-tec works right. i still need to adjust my fuel settings curve. i think that because that is not set, that the light comes on. if anbody has gotten our settings for our car, i would love to get them.

thanx

 
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Hywood77, what do you mean about it getting "warmer"?

well all of my conections are soldered and the unit is working (turns on, sensor check is ok, etc.), but the check engine light still comes on about 10 sec. after I start the car. Is it possible that just unplugging the battery is not clearing the code and that I might need to erase the code with a code scanner? Any ideas. The car also idles fine, I have not drove it yet. Im sure that VTEC will not work, but I'm pretty clueless right now.

 
Rep Power: 405

no i have a friend that has the computer that hooks up to our car. the diagnostic computer. and the thing said that there was a error with the fuel system. so he clear the error and the light stayed off.i went to school then i turned my car on about 3 hours later. and the light turn on again...

 
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I just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed up to this point. I unhooked the 2 VAFC VTEC wires and soldered the factory harness VTEC wires back together. The light has not turned on yet. If it stays off, do you guys think that I will not run into any problems leaving it like this for a while (until I get time). Basically, I have everything hooked up except the VTEC wires and was wondering if I would be able to drive the car like this?

sicsol

 
Rep Power: 0

Lights Back On! UGGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
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Looks like you're just SOL. J/k I hope you get the vtec to work with the controller.

 
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ttt

i just installed mine and everything works great. my buddy set it up and he's pretty sure that the settings are correct, but the light turns on when i do a cold start. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]

 
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Check out mrdan4548 post about the v-afc in his car. He said it's been running fine with no check engine light for awhile.

 
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Link-O-Rama

The V-AFC will not work. This is why according to Honda and Apex'i R&D:

The ECU is programmed with a certian engagement point, this is the point that Honda feels is the safest for our motors, and the type of prgramming that the ECU was programmed with; it will not accept a change in engagement points from a outside source other than it's own. The principal of the V-AFC is to make the ECU think that you are turning more RPM than what the engine really is at that particular time.
This explains why, most of the ppl that have tried to use the V-AFC can not turn more than 4000 rpm. Reason, the car thinks that is already at or right at the Rev Limiter. Also being a ULEV motor the ECU also takes the PPM (Pulses Per Milliseconds) from the injectors, the O2 readings, the TPS angle, IAT temp, and the motors RPM to accurately meet the emmision standards that Honda has preset to the ECU. Also look at it like this:

If you are at say 85% throttle and you are doing 62mph, technically your RPM should be about say 4500 (just painting a picture here so do not quote me on that), but with the V-AFC completely hooked up, now your ECU thinks that you are doing say 5500 RPM. This sends a DTC (Diagnostic Troble Code) out. Therefore causes the ECU to go in what I like to call a Safe Mode (kinda like when Windws messes up and it boots in safe mode to prevent anymore errors so that you can fix what is wrong). This is why 4000 rpm is the cut off. Apex'i design has been very effective for legacy model cars but is not a worthy aponnet for a ULEV type ECU. If you will hook up the AFC with out the VTEC portion, and set about a straight up 10 % where the factory VTEC engagement is set and it will be about the equivalent of changing the engagement point. Plus w/o changing your injectors, ignition and fuel pump you are not going to notice that much difference anyways.

 
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I had an V-AFC controller in my civic last week and I had the same exact problem with mine, the check engine would turn on, couldn't go past 4,000 rpm's and the car was shaking bad. I took it to our import shop in town, it was in the shop for 2 days and in the end, the controller had to go.

The guys called Apexi up and they sent them a fax saying that in 2002 the controller will not work. It will throw check engine lights depending if the car is cold or warmed up. They also said that it's because in 2002 the civics have 3 VTM wires, one when it's cold, one when it's hot and one when it's average temperature, the controler is looking for only 1 wire.

They tried conecting all wires, just one wire at a time and the check engine would still turn on depending to which VTM wire it was hooked up with. Apexi said that it works with 2001 and below, not 2002 and up yet, they're in the process of developing one.

Really made me upset, it worked nice when it did the few times and I didn't get a check engine, but not if lights keep comming on and it can't shift right.

If anyone finds out anything different, please let me know for further reference...thanks.

 
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The vtm wire that is shown on apexi web site is the correct wire. V-afc will work with the 02 civic! No problem here.