Rep Power: 367

edit: I messed up (forum moderator stuff that I can't revert) - ignore this first post, go to OP's second post - crajnai is the poster

 
Rep Power: 50

Thanks to the experts once again. My 2003 runs again. I have spent too much time and money in parts and tools on this “classic” civic EX to turn back.

But it runs hot. No percolating coolant like before the head gasket I just redid, but it hits on the 3/4 mark on the gauge going uphill or when running the AC. Fans work. Thermostat is new.

I am confident that all I did is correct, the idle is smooth as a baby butt and it’s all new except for the piston rings. We went to get a car wash and I had to ask the driver if it was running or not.

Ai then, what is the life expectancy of these radiators? If this is original it’s a no brainer I figure. It’s been hot here in the 90s but my newer cars aren’t running hot so what is left to shake down?

all new: water pump, timing belt, other belts, head gasket, Honda coolant, OEM thermostat, denso plugs, fresh gaskets all around the head and valves, valves lapped and gaps set.

oy.

 
Rep Power: 367

honestly, not common to hear actual radiator failing other than heater core clogs or similar? recently there was one with a hole in the rad neck.
or people using stop leak? (engine goes before rad when using stop leak, so...)
my 02 is still doing fine, for example
thermostat, cap, etc new? Hoses might go first

 
Rep Power: 50

Thermostat new OEM.
coolant OEM
heater core unknown, but cranking the heat sends the temp
down like in the old days.
hose are soft and flexible.
No evidence of stop leak in any of my
work, not in any water passages nor pump chamber.
water passages around cylinders were clean-ish and we vacuumed and cleaned them where
we could when doing the head.
no obvious hole in rad neck
didnt change the cap but really is that a possible cause here?

 
Rep Power: 222

Coolant bled properly?

 
Rep Power: 50

Jacked up with a funnel. Squeezed the hoses. Heat on. 20 min. Till bubbles were mostly gone

 
Rep Power: 222

I just did the head the headgasket on my 2000 and it's doing the same, going to do the pressure test mon or wed to confirm what i suspect.

 
Rep Power: 367

ouch, hopefully it's not the gasket again for you two...

 
Rep Power: 222

Think the block might be damaged, the head was machined. Already got a line on another motor.

 
Rep Power: 50

Kid took the car to boyfriends place. Told them to top off the coolant before coming home. I hope to hell the head gasket job is legit and the block isn’t cracked. It will be staying like this or going to a shop that specializes in radiators and they drive it into the ground from here. I’m confident our work was clean and “better than it was”.

Having said this, would it be legit to untorque and retorque the head without removing the new gasket?

 
Rep Power: 367

no problems on this one, the studs are non-stretchable on the D17 7th gen engines (which is thought of to be the cause of the gasket failures, actually...)
but don't un-torque, just check torque

 
Rep Power: 50

Got it. I’ll see what the coolant look like, re burp it on the hill on my block. If it persists this will be the next step.

It hasnt percolated coolant so I’m hoping we are good in there.

All else fails it goes to the radiator shop.

 
Rep Power: 222

Rad fan is coming on when it's up to temp?

 
Rep Power: 50

Yes, once it gets a bit over middle temp the fans run, also when the ac is turned on. Could it be a fan controller issue? Where are those located?

 
Rep Power: 367

do the air pressure into cylinders test again just in case
also, hope gasket is not flipped

 
Rep Power: 50

I put the new one on the same position as the one I took off, and that matched the service manual photo too.

I did not do the air pressure test since the coolant was percolating so violently it seemed obvious it was the gasket. I can do it now if the bleed doesn’t solve for it.

im reading that having even one liter shy of full will make it run hot so I’m hoping that’s all it is.

 
Rep Power: 50

I haven’t done this job yet, been away for a bit. I’m considering redoing all the bolts because I am now reading that if they bind when torquing you need to back them out and do over. Several of the last bolts in the sequence pinged when I was torquing, near cylinder 3 and 4.

So now what. Can I back out say the last 4-6 head bolts, oil them and retorque to say one pound Over spec or do I need to back them all out and retorque all bolts the three step sequence? Can I save the gasket Job I just put in? It only has maybe 200 miles on it.

It runs hot like I said and I suspect there is still an exhaust leak at this new gasket due to this torque issue.

So I need to dump coolant and oil to do this?

 
Rep Power: 222

Take them all out and redo, drain the oil and coolant first. Block may be warped.

 
Rep Power: 50

Ok gang this is how this went.

I retorque each head bolt, starting from the center and working out. Back out, vac the hole, recoil, set and torque. Several near cylinder 3 and 4 were binding no matter how much oil I used. I figured “it is what it is” and set them where it felt right. Reassembled, still hot.

I noticed a ticking sound, non rhythmic but random, coming from the front of the engine. It ran great other wise. So I went to a local shop well liked, to diagnose the coolant.They did a gas check and found zero fumes in the coolant and suggested a rad. I let them do it for me, $500 ish.

I drove it like an animal for about 20 miles and it stayed cool. But the click was still there. I took it apart again to see what was happening under the timing cover. Lo I failed to replace the tensioner spring to its post. That was a half day getting that on.

Engine is fine now, other than a little rattling at low idle that is possibly around the trans someplace. And that dang engine light. Hasn’t overheated in over 100 miles.

I’m back to chasing the Evap demon. I replaced the module on the engine, which I bought previously and it relit right away. I may let my little light shine for a bit.