Rep Power: 243

So my newly aquired 95 Civic Ex with 170k miles that I am going to fix and sell is not starting. Previous owner thought that the timing belt broke when he tried to start it one morning. Turns out it is not broken, I removed the timing cover and rotated crank and the belt is fine. So i tried cranking it and it wouldn't start.

Things I have checked or replaced:

*New cap, rotor, wires and NGK plugs. (they looked original if that is possible)

*I checked spark after replacing these items and I have spark on all 4 cylinders.

*I can see the cam rotating so the starter is turning the engine over.

*Verified 12V and ohmed out ICM even though I had spark. Got between 1.1K and 3.3k on why/blu to blue. Got 12V with IGN in POS (II) between blk/yel and body. And between wht/blu and body.

*Cracked open fuel filter line (after the filter) turned the key to POS (II) and fuel squirted out.

So i am thinking it is the TDC sensor. Is there a way I can test it with my multimeter?

 
Rep Power: 243

Ok, so I got it to start.

I feel dumb but I noticed that I still had the small grounding wire that jumps from near the power steering pump to the frame off from when i checked the TB. I put that back on and it started, not easily I had to hit the gas and there was puff of white smoke and then it went into a high idle (i am assuming to warm the car up). I am going to let it sit a while and try it again.

 
Rep Power: 518

Probably was flooded?



On the spark and ICM checking, for future reference: If you have spark, the ICM (igniter) is operating the coil as it should.

 
Rep Power: 243

Good to know. I was thinking maybe the ignitor or coil was weak or something.

When I pulled the plugs before successfully starting it they were wet in fuel so I'm sure it was flooded.

I'm thinking it didn't start for him because it needed a tune up. Plugs were worn down, and the cap and rotor had a lot of carbon build up on it.

 
Rep Power: 243

Is # 12 the crank pulley seal? It says it's the PLATE, TIMING BELT GUIDE

 
Rep Power: 518

Nope, 12 are the belt guide plates. Says so right in the description. LOL


There is no 'crank pulley seal'.
If you want the front crank seal, look up the oil pump.

 
Rep Power: 243

Lol, I walked into that one.


There it is! So after removing the pulley, do I need a special tool to get to the seal?

 
Rep Power: 518

Youtube??? Look for different methods of removing a crank or cam seal.

I hammer a (thin, somewhat rounded, yet sharp) screwdriver alongside the seal (between outer edge of the seal and the aluminum housing) at an angle and twist it loose. The screwdriver is quite worn and I can maneuver it to not gouge the aluminum (well, not very much anyway).

And do not gouge the crank surface at all!


To install, we have a set of seal drivers that usually work. Look at yours before you mangle it, make sure it's driven in flush with the housing. Find a 'suitable tool' (pipe, sockets, tubing, 3/8" extension,.....got any PVC tubing laying around? You could make a good seal installer if the tubing is the right size)
Drive the new seal in to the same depth. (I know some cam seals are set deeper than flush)

 
Rep Power: 243

So is there a trick to getting the crank sprocket off in order to access the seal? The videos I see it just slides off. It's not budging and I don't want to heat it up or mangle the teeth.

 
Rep Power: 518

Sprocket is just a slip on deal. Time and weather can make rust form between gear and crank and cause it to stick. Gently prying and tapping may get it to come off. Whatever you do, don't damage it unless you are ready to buy another.

 
Rep Power: 243

PB Blaster and gentle tapping on the face of it let it free, thanks.

Now everything is almost back together and my timing belt is a little loose on one side. It's tight on the tensioner side. I have to take it apart again and see what's going on. I made sure the spring was on correctly and the other tab was on the post, but it still seems loose to me.

 
Rep Power: 518

Roll the crank so all the slack is on the tensioner side, as per the manual. Loosen and retighten the tensioner lock nut, let the spring do its job.
It won't be super tight.
There is a wee bit of slack that is noticeable, depending on how the crank was last moved.
There is such a thing as too tight.
If you get it TOO tight it can whine, among other things.

 
Rep Power: 243

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I am thinking that's what I didn't do.

 
Rep Power: 243

Worked beautifully, thank you sir!

 
Rep Power: 243

Engine runs great. Now there is a strange transmission noise when accelerating and de-accelerating. Goes away when you press in the clutch.


Any thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 518

I've now listened on 2 different computers, I can't discern what you are hearing.

 
Rep Power: 243

Maybe this video is better. You can here it around 5 seconds in. Sounds similiar to having a baseball card hitting the spokes on your bicycle.

 
Rep Power: 518

Noise stays consistent with engine RPM not road speed (Probably input shaft bearings.)
Is the noise present in all gears? Just 2nd gear? 1st? How many gears?

What about accel/decel? I hear it on acceleration, what's the noise do upon deceleration in that gear?
In all gears?

 
Rep Power: 243

Yes noise is present in all gears and during accel and decel. Noise goes away when clutch is pressed in or in neutral. Also not present if its in neutral while moving.

Sounds like input shaft bearing...bummer.

 
Rep Power: 518

1) Hang a sign that says "Honest GolNats' Used Cars"
2) Load trans with sawdust and a banana peel
3) Profit

 
Rep Power: 243

Haha! It would be easier if I could do that, but that's not me.

I will let the buyer know and see what she wants to do. If she wants to pay less for it then that's cool.

I usually avoid places that tell me things like that. "Best food in Town", "Clean Kars". Maybe some are good.

 
Rep Power: 518

By the same token, a quote:

"I find that those who loudly proclaim their faith often need to be closely scrutinized for just such activities."

 
Rep Power: 243

good quote