Rep Power: 0

Confirmed that it's coming from the rear. Does not do it when going straight or turning right. Don't think it's bushings, they appear fine and are all Engergy Suspension poly on all 4 corners. Everything was checked for tightness. Endlinks were my next guess but they seem fine, tight, no play whatsoever. Shocks and springs appear fine and all seated correctly (dspecs/GC's). Could it be endlinks even though they're tight? Checked when on the ground and also when on a lift

 
Rep Power: 0

Is everyone giving me the silent treatment?

 
Rep Power: 518

Sounds all quiet over here.

 
Rep Power: 518

Can you get it to make the noise by bouncing it by hand?
Get it over an oil pit or a drive-on hoist or straddle a curb and have someone bounce it while checking for the noise from underneath.

 
Rep Power: 0

No it's only when turning left. Hard turning is especially louder. No noise when bouncing it or going over bumpy or uneven roads, which I've researched could be due to blown shocks or bent pistons in the damper. I had someone lay in the trunk with the seats down and it seems like it's coming from the left rear wheel but everything looks fine when looking at it and checked to make sure everything is tight. Check both when on the ground and with car on a lift. It's so loud it's like a banging.

 
Rep Power: 518

I see your build thread.
Are ANY parts of your rear suspension still factory?

 
Rep Power: 0

Umm, just the sway bar, endlinks, and sway bar bushings. Also the trailing arms but that's a given. Trailing arms have ES bushings, they all look ok.

I'm toe in pretty bad and could not correct it due to what my alignment guy thinks are slightly bent trailing arms. Camber is at -2.3 each side (needs to be to clear the fenders). I would say the poor alignment specs could be the culprit but I've put 40k miles on this setup without this noise.

 
Rep Power: 0

Crickets

 
Rep Power: 518

I didn't know this was a chatroom LOL. Had to go to dinner with the GF and her granddaughter....She was looking for her Pawpaw to show up on the loud bike. I got a hug and carried her in to the local DQ Playplace.

There's probably a lot of possible places for noises. Every nut and bolt, every joint, every bushing. Everything you ever touched and/or replaced.

Single pop as the suspension gets a sideways load on it (during the turn)? Look for a loose fastener.

Multiple pops that have more to do with road surface variations as you make the turn? Look for metal to metal contact at bushings and such.

Jack under the LCA to compress the spring and take loads off of the bushings and joints, then see what has play? Remove the spring and strut so the suspension is completely unloaded, so you can find the play?

 
Rep Power: 0

Oh na man, I didn't mean it like that. I kno you have been an awesome help with all these problems. But it's like you're the only person that replies to my questions these days. Kinda hurts my feelings. Btw, remember that fan switch problem. Well the switch was bad, but the overheating woes were from another blown head gasket. I appreciated all your help on that one. Just some dumb asses didn't do a good job the first time and I'm paying the price.

It's multiple bangs and moderate speed left turns. About the normal speed you would go when taking a left. Now if I go reaaaal slow turning, it won't do it. It doesn't even have to be a full left. I makes the same sound when swerving on a smooth highway from right to left. Swerve right, then back left and it goes POP POP POP POP POP. Will do it as long as the steering wheel is even slightly pointed left.

I'll try lifting it on the LCA, isn't putting it on a lift the same thing? I swear we checked every nut and bolt and actually the endlinks were loose and we tightened those but the noise came right back. Thanks for all your help bro, I owe you a beer still.

What would be the symptoms of bad endlinks, do they even go bad? Seems like they're ball joint-ish but they don't have any play in em which is why I'm doubting myself.

 
Rep Power: 518

Are the lugnuts tight?

Can you associate the speed of the pops with wheel revolutions in any way?
Rock in between the rotor and backing plate?

Knock on stuff and match the tone?

Have YOU ridden in the trunk to listen for which side the noise comes from?

Louder with windows up or down?
On a body lift, the suspension is hanging at its lowest point of travel, not ride height. Sometimes play is only noticed when the suspension is in its normal driving position. It was a thought.

Swaybar links? Sure they go bad..... Pops as the body rocks side to side or over uneven bumps. One wheel has to move independently of the other in order for a swaybar to come into effect (for lack of a better term right now.)
Grab one end of the sway bar and shove it up and down. If the link has play you will feel it, it's obvious when they do.
What you described shouldn't be a swabar link issue IMO, but again I'm not there to hear it.

 
Rep Power: 0

It kinda does sound like the wheel is about to fall off so I triple checked the lug nuts. The speed of the pop does not correlate with wheel revolution. It's the same at different speeds. Seems sensitive to when the steering wheel is turned left. I had the guy that does my alignment lay in the trunk with the seats down while I drove and he says it's coming from the left side. Sounds about the same windows up or down, it's vibrates the whole car, it's pretty severe.

We've even gone as far as separating the LCAs from the trailing and move them all around checking for binding and put it all back together. No rocks or anything.

I see what you're saying now about jacking it up from the LCAs, he tried that on the alignment lift with the jacks that are in the center, moved stuff around. It all seemed normal. Aside from not being able to zero toe, it goes to about -.25 and then jumps back to -.60. He determined something was bent, the trailing arms most likely.

This is really weird man. The only thing that improved it a little was tightening the endlinks which were loose but it only took 10 miles before the noise was back.

 
Rep Power: 518

Remove the sway bar and links and drive it. Or disconnect the links and tie them out of the way.


But I'd think either of those wouldn't care if you were turning left or right. You would probably be able to make it pop by rocking the car side to side if this were the case.
???

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm going to disconnect the links, sounds like a good plan. I really wanna identify this before I start replacing parts. Again man, thanks for all your help! This **** really sux. Also I forgot to mention this sorta started, or perhaps became severely worse when I got 4 new tires. Maybe it was there before the tires, but fresh rubber made it almost undriveable. Honestly, I wanna say in fact maybe it did start after replacing the tires. I'm gonna disconnect the links, also maybe check the upper part where the struts mount inside the trunk, I don't remember if he check those or not when he was riding in the trunk.

 
Rep Power: 0

It was a rear strut mount bearing.