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So my 02 EX engine locked up while driving 3 hours away from home one day and i had to get the car towed to a shop (not Honda...one that my dad had been going to for years and trusted). They diagnosed that the A/C compressor locked up and was preventing the crank from turning. While they were in there they said the timing belt was cracking, so had them change it too, along with the power steering belt.

I get the car back and after running well for a few days the car starts bucking when I reach about 3,000 RPM. Sometimes it doesn't do it, sometimes it does. I am able to drive on all gears at low RPM. Check Engine light is on.

I'm going to take it in to Honda shop tomorrow but it's really bugging the **** out of me....i'm just praying it wasn't a crap timing belt change and they screwed up my valves. Please tell me there is something else it could be. Do you have to do anything with the motor mount when working on the timing belt?

 
Rep Power: 517

Got a P0335 code?

This post from earlier had the same thing: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...7a2-p0335.html
His was a CKP sensor bad, apparently.

If it didn't jump time, this shouldn't be an issue.
If they hurt it when they did the initial work, I would think it would have been apparent right away.

Yes, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the poor running and check engine light.

HTH

 
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I'm not sure what code it's throwing. don't have a diagnostic tool.

How do I tell the difference between rev limiter and misfiring? i'm not sure which is causing the bucking. This sensor would be moving the rev limiter down and not cause misfiring.

 
Rep Power: 517

And DangerZone is closed now.
Checking the code is the only way to know. I was just guessing what code it would have, based on the rest of your description.


Make sure the engine has oil in it. Very low oil level can cause VTEC codes (code P1259) and limited RPM too. Yes, it could be that simple.

Hard to explain without a demonstration....
Have you ever just floored the gas pedal and let the engine run as fast as it can? The computer limits how fast the engine can go (RPMs) by shutting off the fuel injectors at a pre-determined RPM, and the engine can't spin any faster. It is very controlled. That's a "rev limiter" in action.
Rev limit in neutral is usually lower than when in gear. This is how it sounds:
[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1269& transactionid=1342150017-982224733&posted_by=ezone_www.civicforums.com&yout ube_video_id=wESn5C4QgxM[/autostream]

OTOH, misfire is usually caused by a problem, is uncontrolled and unwanted. Uncontrolled combustion, incomplete combustion.

When the computer thinks a bad misfire is happening, it is supposed to flash the Check Engine Light as a warning.
However, if the sensor that it uses to detect misfires is bad, it may no longer be able to do this.


Drive it in such a manner that it does not run bad.
Sounds like it will get you to the shop if you drive gentle and easy.

HTH

 
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I decided to order a diagnostic tool and also change the spark plugs. We'll see what I come up with. The car is driveable so I'd rather not get charged $80 to run a diagnostic when i can just buy one...

 
Rep Power: 252

Dont put sparkplugs that dont belong in there, you will just make problems worse.

 
Rep Power: 517

How about: Don't put plugs in at all.

Fix the real problem first.

AFTER that is resolved, then you can do your maintenance stuff.

 
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It's definitey misfiring, so that could be it anyway...no? Over 105K miles. thanks for the rev limiter video by the way. Definity not what's going on. After I get the OBD2 code i'll post it here to see where the real problem may be.

 
Rep Power: 517

Don't just fire the parts cannon at it.

There are several other possible causes of an engine misfire, not just spark plugs.
(If you screw up the spark plug install, you just complicated finding the problem.)

A bad CKP sensor certainly could cause it to feel like a misfire,
first: as a default fail safe mode, or "limp home" mode of running,
and second: because the ignition depends on that sensor to fire the coils at the right times.

Read the fault codes first, then decide what to do.

 
Rep Power: 517

Handy pic of a parts cannon:

 
Rep Power: 185

LOL, nice. Reminds me of our fast attack submariners firing uber expensive parts at electronic problems they don't understand.

 
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hey there's a spark plug in that pic!

I get what you're saying. Just got the OBD reader so i'll see what it spits out.

 
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It's loaded with parts from the Zone (as if nobody can tell that).
So the plug has to be a Botch Platinum.

You DO NOT WANT that in any car.

 
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for the record i got NGk....whatever part number you had posted on another thread

I'm getting a P0336....interesting but the check engine light isn't currently on.

 
Rep Power: 252

Damn it I was just about to post that picture..

 
Rep Power: 252

Its still stored in the history thats why you can pull it.

P0336 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Intermittent Interruption

I think ezone has super human car powers

Start by measuring voltage between blk/yel wire ok the sensor and body ground. There should be around 5 volts. Maybe wiggle the wire while you do it..

 
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So it's pretty straight forward....change the sensor. I don't have time to do it, at least now I can just tell the shop what to do.

 
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This guy found that the connector was corroded. Is this down underneath, outside the timing cover?

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...bad-again.html

 
Rep Power: 517

The CKP (CranKshaft Position sensor) problem can definitely make it run badly. That needs addressed first.

Then do your maintenance stuff. Unless they are already in there.

See, it is usually best to just make one change at a time, then check it before making any more changes. That way you can tell if something got screwed up, and you can go back and correct it before moving forward. If you do a whole bunch of stuff at once and then it runs bad, it is much tougher to figure out what one part went wrong.
Make sense now?

I can do a crapton of stuff all at once on some cars.
And yes, sometimes something bites me too. **** happens.
But I can usually go right to most problems, I have to rely on my experience to guide me.


FYI
By telling the shop to do that, you must accept the responsibility if the diagnosis (guess) is wrong and parts tossing doesn't solve the problem.
I can see it: "We replaced the part you requested, now pay up!"
Did you check out the post about the corrosion that happens in the CKP connector?



Nah. Just a lot of BTDT.



I get to yank another cracked block in the morning on an 07. The owner came in because the AC quits cooling.....because the temp gauge is lit up like a Christmas tree!
Fun times.

 
Rep Power: 517

Here's pics: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/340610-p0336-code-odd-bucking.html#post4607290
Yes, you can get to the connector if you try real hard. Read the post.



HTH

 
Rep Power: 252

Not necessarily. It could be a short, broken wire, broken connector.. all of which will not be fixed with a new sensor.

Its best to just take it to a shop, let them figure it out unless you have a DVOM, and some basic electrical knowledge. Shop manual is amazing as well.

If I remember correctly the connector sticks out, but the sensor is inside. (Believe its a bit of work to change) Damn pully needs to come off.

 
Rep Power: 252

Good thing his ac stopped working....

 
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He wanted the AC covered under warranty because we touched it FOUR years ago when the whole car was still under warranty. (UM, NOPE)

This guy already added a whole can of freon to the AC too. (ALL air conditioner problems MUST be caused by low freon, right?)
*smh*
Still didn't cool right.
Never noticed the entire temp gauge lit up bright.
Nor the steam, hissing and sound, or the sickeningly sweet coolant smell. Or puddles on his garage floor.

3 seconds with a flashlight, and he's getting a fresh engine tomorrow, and it's covered by the warranty extension....
We'll see what happens with his AC later.

Um, the guy INSISTED on driving it home and bringing it back in the morning too. I wonder if it will arrive on a stretcher (flatbed).

 
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Payinng $55 for a mechanic from craigslist to install CKP Is that good price. not touching spark plugs just yet.




They diagnosed that the A/C compressor locked up and was preventing the crank from turning.
well i think i was attempting to add Freon to my A/c one time, and my car just wouldn't crank up!!!. Its still not cranking up!!!!. its intermittent, (sometimes it does, sometimes dont).
Could it be n A/c compressor.

 
Rep Power: 517

Amazing, it came in this AM under its own power.
The owner said he added coolant to it, now the temp gauge is more like normal and the AC worked again.
Imagine that.

Also, this damned thing gets dragged behind a motorhome. I had to remove the hitching apparatus in order to get the subframe out. Extra labor, I wonder if I will get compensated for this extra work.....

Grrrrrrrr

 
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UPDATE:
the CKP in my 03 civic ex was so difficult to reach/unplug/unscrew that the mechanic tried working on it in my parking lot and was unable to loosen it without an air compressor. He proceeded from the driver side front tires n tried using rachets and other things but he actually needed an air gun/compressor machine to un-loose some of the parts.

So IMHO, this work is best carried out at a SHOP versus a PARKING LOT...lol





I totally agree about spark plugs. I bought the iridum spark plugs, and returned it, becoz something else said to go first with the CKP.

Getting that done this evening!!!!!. Hopefully, that is all thats required. My car wont start and i probably see it as a spark plug issue. however, starting out with CKP. Everything else like timing, compression, fuel pressure checked out ok. My 03 EX will turn over but will not start( turn over like kept cranking).No sputtering or misfiring it just acts like you switched it off. it just crank and crank and crank and not start
There is power to spark plugs using tester, fuses r ok, car doesnt start so alternator test was INCOMPLETE. battery cable, ground wires look good.no shorting detected anywhere.
I havent checked on PCM/ECU/.
I have taken out fuses (back up & #10 fus)eand re-started the car but it only cranks up and nothing else.

Can anyone tell me what more i can or should do besides CKP.

 
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This is absolutely my problem. They pulled the water pump when they did all the work. I'm going to "try real hard" to get the terminals cleaned up and see if that does the trick. Good stuff.

 
Rep Power: 252

So is it all fixed now?

 
Rep Power: 252

Hmm, negligence is covered under warranty? Dealers around here have a hard time covering recalls, let alone a tsb and asking to be covered for your own negligence..you will be laughed out the door.

 
Rep Power: 517

OP's first post said the T-belt was done 3 hours from home.
Didn't say anything in the first post about the water pump getting done at the same time.

I doubt they would step up.
OP is on his own, I'd bet.


Oh, you meant MY post? The cracked block is covered. 8 years/ unlimited miles.

It is almost EASIER if the engine has been cooked completely, I don't have to pull or measure the head.