Tightening up loose steering
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Tightening up loose steering
I have a 1998 Civic LX with 210,000 miles on it.
The steering, compared to other cars I drive (often newer rental cars), feels comparatively loose and I was wondering what kind of repair/maintenance I'm in for before I take it to the shop.
By loose, I mean I can shimmy the steering wheel back and forth without feeling like it's going to change my course at most speeds. Making turns is no problem, but when I'm at high speeds, I often feel the responsiveness and traction is not there.
Is it just the Civic design with slim wheels or could it be something else?
The steering, compared to other cars I drive (often newer rental cars), feels comparatively loose and I was wondering what kind of repair/maintenance I'm in for before I take it to the shop.
By loose, I mean I can shimmy the steering wheel back and forth without feeling like it's going to change my course at most speeds. Making turns is no problem, but when I'm at high speeds, I often feel the responsiveness and traction is not there.
Is it just the Civic design with slim wheels or could it be something else?
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Re: Tightening up loose steering
Worn tie rod ends and ball joints can have a significant impact on steering responsiveness, you can easily check them yourself by jacking up the car and seeing how much play the wheels has.
The parts are relatively affordable, under $60 for OEM and under $50 for off brands, between one and four hours worth of labour depending on exactly what needs to be replaced. Changing only the tie rods will be much less work than ball joints if they are also worn.
The parts are relatively affordable, under $60 for OEM and under $50 for off brands, between one and four hours worth of labour depending on exactly what needs to be replaced. Changing only the tie rods will be much less work than ball joints if they are also worn.
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Worn tie rod ends and ball joints can have a significant impact on steering responsiveness, you can easily check them yourself by jacking up the car and seeing how much play the wheels has.
The parts are relatively affordable, under $60 for OEM and under $50 for off brands, between one and four hours worth of labour depending on exactly what needs to be replaced. Changing only the tie rods will be much less work than ball joints if they are also worn.
The parts are relatively affordable, under $60 for OEM and under $50 for off brands, between one and four hours worth of labour depending on exactly what needs to be replaced. Changing only the tie rods will be much less work than ball joints if they are also worn.
Thanks again!
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At 210k anything is possible.
I'd like to add:
If the suspension checks out, look at the tires. Many tires have a "mushy" response feeling due to construction, materials, and sidewall flex. Cheap tires are bad about it. At what point did you notice the condition again?
I recently put a set of (I think) G/Y Eagle GT tires on a stock Prelude. The owner was back in under an hour complaining of crappy handling. It was the tires. Some people notice that stuff, some don't.
Tire inflation plays a big part too. Low tires don't respond.
Sway bars and struts: The car can't make the turn until the body is done rocking.
I'd like to add:
If the suspension checks out, look at the tires. Many tires have a "mushy" response feeling due to construction, materials, and sidewall flex. Cheap tires are bad about it. At what point did you notice the condition again?
I recently put a set of (I think) G/Y Eagle GT tires on a stock Prelude. The owner was back in under an hour complaining of crappy handling. It was the tires. Some people notice that stuff, some don't.
Tire inflation plays a big part too. Low tires don't respond.
Sway bars and struts: The car can't make the turn until the body is done rocking.
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