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Here's what my setup will be.

2005 2dr LX
Front: 2.0"
Rear 1.4"
Shocks: Tokico Blue HP

Would one camber bolt each side be enough. I've only seen front camber kits that do +/-1*, or up to 3* with two a side.
Need to know how many I would require.

 
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just make that clear:
You do not need front camber kits, unless you going to put more neg camber for racing or if you run insane amounts of low-off-set wheels.

Now, since they are cheap anyway, does not hurt to put them.

one for side is enough. who uses 2 is to get even more camber, but then other paorts start to be stressed.

 
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there is some extense explanation here:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...amber-kit.html

 
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Sounds good. I'll install the springs/shocks/rear camber, and bring the front camber bolts when I go for alignment, just in case.
Thanks for your response.

 
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let us know if that does not work out

 
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Sure will. Ordering my stuff tonight, will definitely post before/after pics.

 
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Spring/shocks, camber kit, F/R strut tower braces all en route.

Still waiting for my rear Type-S sway bar if I ever get it. Long story.
Opted not to get lower tie arm.
Debating if I should get all new mount and put these things together before hand to save some time. Will call dealership Monday for price quote on all four.

 
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New motor mounts you mean?

You can get the ES ones for $30 online.

 
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Nah, strut mounts.

 
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I'm guessing the rear strut mount plate is a dealer only item. Since I can only find complete front mounts, and what looks like just the rear sleeve and bushing?

Ha, OKAY. After looking on hondapartsdeals. There appears to be a lot more parts required if I want to pre-assemble the aftermarket springs/shocks to strut mounts.

 
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Got front and rear camber kit, they look nice. Ingalls knockoffs. Will get pics later. They gave me 4 bolts in the kit, how nice of them. LOL
If I end up not needing them, I'll just re-sell two front camber kits.

'03 Type-S rear sway in and new endlinks, originals needed to be cut off.


Question about springs. The fronts are supposed to be 2.0" drop, and rear 1.4" drop.
They both measure in at 9.75" in height. Does it seem like they sent me the right ones?

 
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the shorter pitch coils are dead coils -they will be completely compressed with weight on them.
the wire diameter seems to be close F/R, while the front Coil diameter have larger diameter but higher pitch. prolly will lower more than the rears.
They should be correct. Won't go into the physiscs of springs here.

Edit (from "corrected" in the last sentence... darn, don't even know how i did mistype that!!! )

 
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Those are correct, the way they compress makes all the difference.

 
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Ok cool, will get before and after shots as soon as my shocks come.
I definitely want to avoid the rear-end sag, which seems to be common with many spring manufactures out there which offer a close to even drop for front/right.
These were a custom order.

 
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eibach custom rates? Q1?

 
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Nah, they are from a company here in Canada called Canuck Motorsport.
They offer 1.4' and 2.0" drop kits for the EM2.
I requested a mixed set, so I would assume it's custom since it's not something they offer in their catalog.

I've used them before on my previous car and the ride and performance were awesome, There's lots of good reviews of the company online.

We'll see how the stance turns out soon enough.

 
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Sorry but the CANUCK motorsports is funny. LOL

 
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I've actually been curious about the Canuck Motorsports springs for awhile, nice to hear a good review.

 
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man those endlinks are thin. i would snap those in a week lol. if they break again, get the MOOG links. $50 each but worth it and twice as thick.

 
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These are the ones I got from Honda. They were the closest place to me still open at the time I needed them. Since I needed to cut the originals off at the thread.
If they break (which I doubt they will) I would consider MOOG. Funny you mention that, I had them on my last car (non-civic) front and rear with polyurethane bushing.

Should have shocks by end of the week, and pending weather and if all goes well (Which I also doubt, because it never does..haha) Then I should have a review by Sunday.

Put a cheap front STB on today, wow did that ever fit like ****. After about an hour of modifications, I got it on. Made a considerable difference. Front end feels a lot more rigid. Will attempt to put the rear STB on while swapping suspension. Although I can probably assume that it may not be as worth while to do as the front was.

 
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most likely, i would guess...
g'luck on the spring/strut install. start PB blasting it now! rusted bolts are simply... a pain...

 
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I only had fluid film and liquid wrench, so used both. haha Good idea, thanks.

So I couldn't find a spring compressor to rent anywhere, but apparently it can be done without, at least for taking apart OEM stuff. How is it trying to put the strut mounts on Tokico Blues and lowering springs, apparently these shocks have a shorter body and stroke. Would I need a spring compressor, or should it me manageable with just some body weight?

 
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I guess if anything, I could put the strut mount in the tower and guide the shock with a floor jack under the lower arm to compress the spring.

 
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Alright, got the fronts on.
Was actually expecting more of a drop, this was after 10 minutes of settling.
I like the stance how it is, and have plans of an audio system, so in no big rush to do the rears.

Anyways, I think I put #7 on 180* wrong. Meaning the arrow pointing toward the engine. The mount on top with the 3 studs (#10/11), I made sure to point toward the wheel. I noticed this while doing the passenger side. Which may also explain the creaking I get from driver-side while turning the wheel. Going to take apart tomorrow. Passenger side is solid.



Passenger side good.


Driver side, bad?

 
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Measurements from fender to top of wheel before:
Front left = 6.5"
Front right = 6.5"

After:
Front left = 5.5"
Front right = 5.25"

 
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the arrows are to be aligned to the springs/strut, it's called indexing the springs - a quick search in the net should get you pictures.
step 19:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...info-pics.html

it will make noise if not indexed correctly
Also, springs will settle overtime, so ride car for a few days? maybe a week? then remeasure again. preferrably align after that, unless some odd behaviour is detected or you notice some tire wear (toe)

 
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Thanks I did follow the guide, but didn't realize that there was an arrow on the #7 plate until I did the pass. side. I do recall flipping it before installing, and as soon as I saw the pass. side, I was like, oh ****..

Anyways, the ride is awesome, pretty much identical to OEM in a straight line, but gets stiff when cornering.

I also put a camber kit on the top strut bolt and made it slightly positive on both sides.
Have alignment appointment Weds.

 
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Oh, yeh, there are tons of other info in here too. courtesy of robbclark

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...ease-read.html

 
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Thanks for the info.
You know what, I'm pretty disappointed in the drop.

I'm going to put the OEM stuff back on, and get a complete set of coilovers to run in the summer, and save the OEM stuff for winter.

Looks like you get everything for coilovers, just swap it all in, and get a performance alignment.

Now I gotta do some research on coilovers. =D

Actually had my eye on these for a while..
C8SPORT SSD COILOVER 03-05 HONDA CIVIC SUSPENSION BLACK

 
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Put the factory stuff back in, the strut plate was indexed 90* inappropriately.
Everything is quite again.