Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
Hi guys,
It appears that a section in my exhaust pipe (front) broke due to rust (snow + salt in Western NY).
The first thing I did was to look for part replacement on HondaAutomotiveParts.com. However, one thing confuses me.

As you can see on the above diagram, it appears that there's no separation between the A-pipe and the Catalytic Converted. It looks like one part. The damn thing costs $782 to replace??
Is it true that the A-pipe and Cat-Converter on our 7th Gen Civic is one unit? Can I just replace the pipe between the manifold and Cat-Converter??
Thanks..
It appears that a section in my exhaust pipe (front) broke due to rust (snow + salt in Western NY).
The first thing I did was to look for part replacement on HondaAutomotiveParts.com. However, one thing confuses me.

As you can see on the above diagram, it appears that there's no separation between the A-pipe and the Catalytic Converted. It looks like one part. The damn thing costs $782 to replace??
Is it true that the A-pipe and Cat-Converter on our 7th Gen Civic is one unit? Can I just replace the pipe between the manifold and Cat-Converter??
Thanks..
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
If you have the D17A2 engine then the cat is integrated into the downpipe. Where did it break? If the flange is still good then an exhaust/muffler shop could probably weld on a new piece of pipe there.
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
Thanks, guys..
I am still not sure where the damage is. Tomorrow I'll bring my car to my mechanic. Hopefully it's not around the flange area. I am really really hoping that he can cut and weld the damaged area.
For all honesty, I really don't want to spend $782!
Anyway, is there an aftermarket part for that section?
I am still not sure where the damage is. Tomorrow I'll bring my car to my mechanic. Hopefully it's not around the flange area. I am really really hoping that he can cut and weld the damaged area.
For all honesty, I really don't want to spend $782!
Anyway, is there an aftermarket part for that section?
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
It's snowing badly here in Buffalo, NY, so, I can't just go outside and take a look underneath my car. However, nothing's dangling, so I suppose it's not the flange area. Well, hopefully it's fixable.
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Portland, Oregon
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Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
You'll be fine till the snow melts. Snow is rough on our cars. Mines pretty low.... with our snow I scrapped my mid section exhaust pipe and cracked a foglight... whatevz.
As for your exhaust, you might be better off buying a test pipe and then having the stock cat welded in, it'll be a much better fit then paying someone to fabricate a decent bend out of a pipe and weld a new flange on it (the section that has holes in it to bolt up to the next section).
As for your exhaust, you might be better off buying a test pipe and then having the stock cat welded in, it'll be a much better fit then paying someone to fabricate a decent bend out of a pipe and weld a new flange on it (the section that has holes in it to bolt up to the next section).
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
Thanks!
I spoke with my mechanic, however, he told me that he can't find after market part. Since he's not a welder, he suggested me to go to a muffler shop...
I have to consult with our local automotive forum for referral...
I spoke with my mechanic, however, he told me that he can't find after market part. Since he's not a welder, he suggested me to go to a muffler shop...
I have to consult with our local automotive forum for referral...
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
I've got the Random Technology Super High Flow Cat that includes the 'b' pipe coming in today. Here is a link from a distributor of the Random Tech cat: http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...2&cat=0&page=1 . It's supposed to be a direct bolt-on from the exhaust manifold flange to the flange behind the cat. Anyway, on this site it's about 300 something bucks. About half the price of a replacement from the factory + high flow.
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
I got that Random Tech cat in yesterday and it definitely has the included down pipe on it with a floating flange so that you can bolt it directly to the header, along with the rear flange to bolt to the exhaust. I forgot that you should buy the 'install kit' with it for an extra $40.00 or so that includes new bolts and gaskets. I'm from TX so I dont know nothing bout no snow and how it affects anything really. But anyway, hope this helps.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,362
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
Rep Power: 388 










Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
40 bucks for an install kit? Forget that. Go to napa and dig through their hardware. Find some 10mm bolts and nuts that will fit your flange with a little spare thread after fully torqued. Then ask the guy at the counter where they have their sheets of Mr. Gasket- ask for #77, you'll get a sheet of this and trace out a new gasket and cut it our yourself. You'll have plenty of material left over for future gasket projects. All this should cost less then 20 bucks- and no shipping costs either.
Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
Triz, you mentioned 'fully torqued'. Which bolts need to be torqued to what spec? I'm having a problem with that Random Tech cat, rattling against the bottom of the car. It's extremely irritating. Do you think that having them tightened as tight as possible and not having them torqued to the correct spec might have something to do with that?
Last edited by MandM; Jan 24, 2009 at 09:03 PM.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,362
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
Rep Power: 388 










Re: Separate A-pipe and B-pipe?
What is it hitting exactly? My race header viberates on something down below.. I think its the oil pan, its a tight fit... I'm wondering if an ex oil pan would be a better fitment.
Anyways, to your question, your torque wont play into the vibrations your getting. Its probably hitting your sway bar. Aftermarket parts dont fit as well as stock, even though they can be made much better than stock parts are... its just how it goes. And after a few years cars all have a dfferent shape.. just like women change. Some ppl push thier cars and pannels move slightly, sometimes cars get in accidents and repairs arent made to exact stock conditions... lots of things play in... what you need to do is look under your car and see what its hitting. Keep in mind when your rev your engine is moves in the engine bay, and therefore your whole exhaust moves as well.
Anyways, to your question, your torque wont play into the vibrations your getting. Its probably hitting your sway bar. Aftermarket parts dont fit as well as stock, even though they can be made much better than stock parts are... its just how it goes. And after a few years cars all have a dfferent shape.. just like women change. Some ppl push thier cars and pannels move slightly, sometimes cars get in accidents and repairs arent made to exact stock conditions... lots of things play in... what you need to do is look under your car and see what its hitting. Keep in mind when your rev your engine is moves in the engine bay, and therefore your whole exhaust moves as well.
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