Camshaft Stage 1 & 2, Pros & Cons
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Camshaft Stage 1 & 2, Pros & Cons
Been Thinking About Putting In A Cam Shaft For A While. I Want To Keep My Engine N/a And Was Wonderin What Is The Difference Between Stage One And Two? What Are The Pros And Cons Of Getting The The Cam Shaft, As Far As Performance And Are There Any Other Things I Need To Consider? Do I Lose Fuel Efficiency? What Other Parts Do I Need? Guys W/ These Let Me Know How Your Experience W/ The Shafts Has Been. Also, Any Constructive Feed Back Is Appreciated
Last edited by KINGCHILE; Apr 26, 2006 at 01:20 PM.
First off, turn off your CAPS lock button.
Second of all, how much power and money are you willing to spend. I know if you go stage 2, you need to do buy more valvetrain parts than if you got the stage 1 which I think you still use the stock valvetrain components.
Second of all, how much power and money are you willing to spend. I know if you go stage 2, you need to do buy more valvetrain parts than if you got the stage 1 which I think you still use the stock valvetrain components.
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Originally Posted by scansel912
First off, turn off your CAPS lock button.
Second of all, how much power and money are you willing to spend. I know if you go stage 2, you need to do buy more valvetrain parts than if you got the stage 1 which I think you still use the stock valvetrain components.
Second of all, how much power and money are you willing to spend. I know if you go stage 2, you need to do buy more valvetrain parts than if you got the stage 1 which I think you still use the stock valvetrain components.
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From: Dayton OH
Rep Power: 311 if money is not an issue get stage 2 with port n polish valves and sprinds with an ems and you will prolly be around 140hp?
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Rep Power: 313 I plan on running N/A also!
Stage 2 cam, Crower retainers & springs! Then tune it with my VAFC2!
I'd like to break 130WHP mark!
Stage one are not even worth talking about!
Stage 2 cam, Crower retainers & springs! Then tune it with my VAFC2!
I'd like to break 130WHP mark!
Stage one are not even worth talking about!
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Originally Posted by v8eaterokv6
if money is not an issue get stage 2 with port n polish valves and sprinds with an ems and you will prolly be around 140hp?
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Rep Power: 0 if you want to spend little money and want an alright power gain then go with stage 1. you can use this with stock retainers and valve springs. like you said if money isnt an issue then go with stage 2. then you would have to buy after market valve springs and retainers. you'll probably be spending close to 7 to 800 bucks. plus you gotta buy vaf2 and tune it. so you will be spending close to a grand or more. BUT you'll be happy with the power gain that it will give you for sure.
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From: Dayton OH
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Originally Posted by KINGCHILE
WHAT EXACTLY DOES PORT N POLISH DO TO THE PARTS???
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From: Dayton OH
Rep Power: 311 port and polish wont shorten the life span of your engine. you really shouldnt notice a drop in mpg. if its not done right ou could have some idle issues and a little loss of power
diamonds she will pretty much have to
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From: GA
Rep Power: 269 You probably will notice a slight drop in fuel economy, it makes since if you take into consideration that you use more fuel to make more power. It shouldn't be very bad, maybe 1 MPG, especially if you continue to drive the way that you currently do.
If money is no issue then you should go with the stage 2. Thing is you will need the valvetrain upgrade kit and you might as well upgrade your valve stems as well while you're at it. You also will need a something to change the fuel trim and if you want to adjust the rev limiter then the AEM EMS is the only way to go and it costs $1600. You also will need to do some work on the block internals if you plan to rev higher, the rod connecting pins are weak on the d17 so those will need to be upgraded and if you are going to tear down the block you might as well get higher compression pistons and new rods. There is a lot you will need to do to get the most out of it and it gets expensive quick. If money is no object then get the stage 2, hell get the stage 3, but if you don't have the money to do it right with the stage 2 then just stick with the stage 1, it will give you noticeable gains.
If money is no issue then you should go with the stage 2. Thing is you will need the valvetrain upgrade kit and you might as well upgrade your valve stems as well while you're at it. You also will need a something to change the fuel trim and if you want to adjust the rev limiter then the AEM EMS is the only way to go and it costs $1600. You also will need to do some work on the block internals if you plan to rev higher, the rod connecting pins are weak on the d17 so those will need to be upgraded and if you are going to tear down the block you might as well get higher compression pistons and new rods. There is a lot you will need to do to get the most out of it and it gets expensive quick. If money is no object then get the stage 2, hell get the stage 3, but if you don't have the money to do it right with the stage 2 then just stick with the stage 1, it will give you noticeable gains.
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Rep Power: 313 If you want to adjust cam timing.?! (one mabe two HP)
But if your "tuning" your car...wouldnt you want EVERY POSABLE gain????
If so YES!!!!
If no then NO!
But if your "tuning" your car...wouldnt you want EVERY POSABLE gain????
If so YES!!!!
If no then NO!
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if i where u i would just get all u need in one swoop pnp,cams,cam gears,new valvetrain upgrade.then a way to tuneeverything together.......so if when u want to upgrade to turbo all u have to do now is get internals.
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Originally Posted by KINGCHILE
Been Thinking About Putting In A Cam Shaft For A While. I Want To Keep My Engine N/a And Was Wonderin What Is The Difference Between Stage One And Two?
Thats the point of the thread!
Questions about naturally asperated cars! Mainly a cam
Originally Posted by 02BLKCIVIC
Grearbox had issues with porting...
But he had an automatic with stock internals...
But he had an automatic with stock internals...
port and polishing, opens the "tunnels" that the air flows through to get into the engine and out of it. it opens them bigger and smooths them out so the air moves more and more free.
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