oil feed line
Thread Starter
Chicks dig my scent
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 
Ok, i was looking on this site Turbo stuff
and it said on the feed line to use a oil feed plumbing method, where you put a NPT into the oil sender on the block, then run the line to the female T that it attached to a brake line or something else, then run the rest of the line to the turbo, is this necessary? Or can i just attach the T to the sender and run the line from that...thanks for the help. I got the oil return done and i think it should work no problem the way its set up now ( hose not braided steel)
also, if i drive my car with the charge pipe hooked up to the intercooler and TB, but no boost running through it, will the engine get enough air? thanks...just wondering
and it said on the feed line to use a oil feed plumbing method, where you put a NPT into the oil sender on the block, then run the line to the female T that it attached to a brake line or something else, then run the rest of the line to the turbo, is this necessary? Or can i just attach the T to the sender and run the line from that...thanks for the help. I got the oil return done and i think it should work no problem the way its set up now ( hose not braided steel)
also, if i drive my car with the charge pipe hooked up to the intercooler and TB, but no boost running through it, will the engine get enough air? thanks...just wondering
well i got a T fitting with the oil sensor on it, then another T fitting on otherside with a 12 inch ss hose going to my gauge sender and my turbo oil feed ss line. lol... yea alot of ****.. ill take a pic tomorrow.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 

Including myself!!! How badly does your enigne vibrate? The sensor isn't that heavy and the T-fitting is definately pretty sturdy, enough so that it would just "break off".
I had my oil presser sensor(electronic), turbo oil feed, and stock sensor connected to the oil sender. One night when i was out racing the oil pressure sensor broke, oil went everwere. I had to stop at every gas station to refill with oil just to get a to the import shop all the way across town. So now i only have the stock sensor and the turbo oil feed, for now anyway......
Thread Starter
Chicks dig my scent
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 
speedracer awesome pic....did you just screw the T fitting into the oil sender?
also, would running just the charge pipe as an air intake with no boost going through it be bad?
Im getting a lot of stuff done this week since its spring break...once i get the SF fuel kit, i'll be boosted
also, would running just the charge pipe as an air intake with no boost going through it be bad?
Im getting a lot of stuff done this week since its spring break...once i get the SF fuel kit, i'll be boosted
Registered!!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 0
From: PG county, MD, Maryland, US
Rep Power: 0 
the only reason i have the elbow on the end of the Tuner Toys fitting is because of our intake mani. i couldn't get the senor to screw in at that angle.Older moldels civics, this isn't a problem.
but yeh, i just screwed it in with some screw locking stuff..forgot the name of it. If not that use some teflon tape..i bought some recently.Only difference is you gotta let the threadlock stuff dry.
2nd question.. not really clear on the question...is everything else hooked up except the wastegate???
but yeh, i just screwed it in with some screw locking stuff..forgot the name of it. If not that use some teflon tape..i bought some recently.Only difference is you gotta let the threadlock stuff dry.
2nd question.. not really clear on the question...is everything else hooked up except the wastegate???
Thread Starter
Chicks dig my scent
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 
its internally wastegated, the reason i asked was in case i needed to move the car or get parts is if using the charge pipe, as an intake for example would be a problem where it sucks rather than have boost forced into it, but i dont have to worry about it now, the turbos bolted up so im just waiting to build the hot pipe, finish the oil feed line and bolt some other stuff up this week
Some notes to consider:
1. The hole size on the block is 1/8 BSPT, which is British Standard Pipe Taper. It is NOT the same as most sensors which are 1/8 NPT. The main difference is that BSPT has 28 threads per inch, NPT has only 27. Adapters are available and should be used to prevent leaks.
2. Brass is hard, steel is harder, aluminum is much weaker. The problem with adding a bunch of adapters, tees, and sensors is that it does add weight and it does have more leverage when the engine vibrates. What happens is over time, the block's threads are wallowed out and lose their seal. This is the reason to use a piece of braided line and remotely mount the sensors.
3. You don't need the stock oil pressure switch if you don't want a warning light. And there are sensors that also have contacts for the light.
4. Golden Eagle and HKS make spacers that go between the block and oil filter. They have ports already drilled and tapped. They have a 1/8 NPT port and a -8AN line for a turbo. This is a painless way to add a pressure gauge, but they add to the cost.
Cars should all come with an oil pressure gauge. An idiot light is useless. A good gauge can tell you if the oil is thinning, low, thick, or the filter is clogged. And you will tell when the problem is starting, not when it is too late.
1. The hole size on the block is 1/8 BSPT, which is British Standard Pipe Taper. It is NOT the same as most sensors which are 1/8 NPT. The main difference is that BSPT has 28 threads per inch, NPT has only 27. Adapters are available and should be used to prevent leaks.
2. Brass is hard, steel is harder, aluminum is much weaker. The problem with adding a bunch of adapters, tees, and sensors is that it does add weight and it does have more leverage when the engine vibrates. What happens is over time, the block's threads are wallowed out and lose their seal. This is the reason to use a piece of braided line and remotely mount the sensors.
3. You don't need the stock oil pressure switch if you don't want a warning light. And there are sensors that also have contacts for the light.
4. Golden Eagle and HKS make spacers that go between the block and oil filter. They have ports already drilled and tapped. They have a 1/8 NPT port and a -8AN line for a turbo. This is a painless way to add a pressure gauge, but they add to the cost.
Cars should all come with an oil pressure gauge. An idiot light is useless. A good gauge can tell you if the oil is thinning, low, thick, or the filter is clogged. And you will tell when the problem is starting, not when it is too late.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
1khilari
6th Generation Civic 1996 - 2000
12
Jul 9, 2015 08:12 PM
CivicsClass101
1st - 5th Generation Civic 1973 - 1995
0
Jul 9, 2015 11:14 AM
robbie374
Electrical, Wiring, and In Car Entertainment
4
Jul 7, 2015 02:56 AM





!!!!!!!! 
