JRSC Dyno Inside - A3
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JRSC Race
PulleyBoys 3.8"
Fujita CAI (3" Type S)
Comptech Header (Sorry, No race Header for me)
Comptech Catback
IK22 Spark plugs
Tuned By PalmerBlock MD Automotive(JR)
pastaoffering@aol.com
Email him for any motor work, dyno tuning for socal guys.
Just tell him Paul sent you.
Will do quality work!
Does knock, called hondata to make sure it's okay..
Mostly due to S/C noises, sensitive knock sensor.
Ok Results.
Very happy with results. Respectable #'s with Stock cat.
Torque!
Not bad having Stock Cat on, I know that's the bottle-neck at the point.
Regardless, I live in Cali and don't want to deal with that for now.
Unless power bugs bothers me later on.:mwink: Cough K24a2 Cough
205/171 on Dynojet
Run Conditions ; 74 F
Humidity ; 32%
Max boost ; 9.79
Opps..
Video
http://media.putfile.com/JRSC-EP3-Dyno
http://media.putfile.com/JRSC-EP3-dyno-2
JRSC Race
PulleyBoys 3.8"
Fujita CAI (3" Type S)
Comptech Header (Sorry, No race Header for me)
Comptech Catback
IK22 Spark plugs
Tuned By PalmerBlock MD Automotive(JR)
pastaoffering@aol.com
Email him for any motor work, dyno tuning for socal guys.
Just tell him Paul sent you.
Will do quality work!
Does knock, called hondata to make sure it's okay..
Mostly due to S/C noises, sensitive knock sensor.
Ok Results.
Very happy with results. Respectable #'s with Stock cat.
Torque!
Not bad having Stock Cat on, I know that's the bottle-neck at the point.
Regardless, I live in Cali and don't want to deal with that for now.
Unless power bugs bothers me later on.:mwink: Cough K24a2 Cough
205/171 on Dynojet
Run Conditions ; 74 F
Humidity ; 32%
Max boost ; 9.79
Opps..
Video
http://media.putfile.com/JRSC-EP3-Dyno
http://media.putfile.com/JRSC-EP3-dyno-2
Last edited by civicvtec1ps; 07-01-2007 at 10:10 PM.
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^Yeah but you have much much higher c/r, no cat and a decent flowing head. Those are HUGE variables, you know this.
Congrats Paul. Nice numbers for stock head and cat. Any plans for some cams or maybe an a2 headswap?
Congrats Paul. Nice numbers for stock head and cat. Any plans for some cams or maybe an a2 headswap?
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What, exactly, is the difference between a3 and a2 heads? I know it's minor, but I've never seen it actually quantified.
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Yup His recent motor builds.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=457497
Yup, i know even better header with de-cat would be huge differences, we will see how my funds goes!
Far as other motor work such as cams and valve springs etc, just waiting for reviews on them...
Don't really want to be a guniea pig.<<<
A3 is good motor to build, but k24 would be better!
K24 SC is my future plan.
Anyways, you can tell from boost curve, belt was slipping.
Using Dayco(shitty i know) with stock 2" si idler pulley.
Didn't have time to swap new belt(good year) wtih RSX 2.5" idler, could have picked up extra boost..
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=457497
Far as other motor work such as cams and valve springs etc, just waiting for reviews on them...
Don't really want to be a guniea pig.<<<
A3 is good motor to build, but k24 would be better!
K24 SC is my future plan.
Anyways, you can tell from boost curve, belt was slipping.
Using Dayco(shitty i know) with stock 2" si idler pulley.
Didn't have time to swap new belt(good year) wtih RSX 2.5" idler, could have picked up extra boost..
Last edited by civicvtec1ps; 05-04-2007 at 02:15 PM.
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Well if your slipping now, going to a 62.2" belt isnt going to help. Ive been running my Dayco for almost a year now no problem.. Well actually i lie lol. ive had to up my crank pulley before to get a belt to fit for 5lbs of boost.. Now im going to do it again to get more boost! LOL But if i were you ide just get the 2.5" pulley and tighten that bad boy down...
Did yall add any belt dressing while you were dynoing?
Did yall add any belt dressing while you were dynoing?
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Well if your slipping now, going to a 62.2" belt isnt going to help. Ive been running my Dayco for almost a year now no problem.. Well actually i lie lol. ive had to up my crank pulley before to get a belt to fit for 5lbs of boost.. Now im going to do it again to get more boost! LOL But if i were you ide just get the 2.5" pulley and tighten that bad boy down...
Did yall add any belt dressing while you were dynoing?
Did yall add any belt dressing while you were dynoing?
Using 61.5" and pulley is already all the way up.
There's NO Way with 2.5"..
Dayco is weak compare to goodyear, you can easily tell even by looking!
Or even napa belt is better than dayco.
I don't notice any slippage during daily drive, hits about 7-8lbs consistantly.
Didn't use belt dressing.
Dayco isn't really giving any problem, still on my first belt since install.
I have been waiting to snap or shredded, but still good LOL
Last edited by civicvtec1ps; 05-05-2007 at 01:08 AM.
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nice supercharge and tune a K20a3, and u have 220hp. but whats the deal with the lbs of boost... like how does it compare to turboing?
i guess my question is, compared to turbos to get the same amount, which would you have to run a higher amount of boost, i guess. Like say to get relatively 50hp which would require a higher amount of pressure? (i think thats the right words) also, y is it like that. y aren't they the same that is if u need more pressure in one compared to another.
i guess my question is, compared to turbos to get the same amount, which would you have to run a higher amount of boost, i guess. Like say to get relatively 50hp which would require a higher amount of pressure? (i think thats the right words) also, y is it like that. y aren't they the same that is if u need more pressure in one compared to another.
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nice supercharge and tune a K20a3, and u have 220hp. but whats the deal with the lbs of boost... like how does it compare to turboing?
i guess my question is, compared to turbos to get the same amount, which would you have to run a higher amount of boost, i guess. Like say to get relatively 50hp which would require a higher amount of pressure? (i think thats the right words) also, y is it like that. y aren't they the same that is if u need more pressure in one compared to another.
i guess my question is, compared to turbos to get the same amount, which would you have to run a higher amount of boost, i guess. Like say to get relatively 50hp which would require a higher amount of pressure? (i think thats the right words) also, y is it like that. y aren't they the same that is if u need more pressure in one compared to another.
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(I think i could have easily picked up few extra hp between 7000-7500, say 225-227)
Same belt.
But I tighten the belt and applied belt conditioner last night.
Belt didn't slip all the way to 7k.
A/F and Torque range is perfect.
Just different dyno setup.
Dynojet vs dynopack.
Church auto, yea def one of the best tuner out there.
Nice garage, full load of cars.
Another ep made 210, but he has race header.
Same setup except i have smaller belt, extra 2 psi
There was built N/A who made 280/200(Prodrive RSX), and built Turbo (A guy who tuned my car) made 390/295 tq.
Jesus...
Last edited by civicvtec1ps; 07-01-2007 at 11:54 PM.
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I always find it strange that the A3 boosted or supercharged and d17 turbo put out similar numbers. Granted the d17 will have to be built more to support the power. Then again slap some internals in the A3 and a head swap and it can be a killer itself.
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you can get a A3 for about "1,395.98" how much would it cost for a k20a2's head?? and some internals do u think?? like a rough estimate?
stage 2 cams for the a3 go for about 487.00 on club rsx
BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft (102mm stroke K24 / 92mm stroke K20).
BC 4340 Pro Series steel billet rods w/ARP 220,000 psi fasteners.
Aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio).
9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins.
Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.
Typically includes aluminum buttons/rail supports (not locks).
High strength ACL copper-lead rod and main bearings.
Fully system balanced and ready to install.
$3000
so all in all about $5000... durn... might as well keep savin for a a2, or just the a..... geeze.. *kicks the dirt*
stage 2 cams for the a3 go for about 487.00 on club rsx
BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft (102mm stroke K24 / 92mm stroke K20).
BC 4340 Pro Series steel billet rods w/ARP 220,000 psi fasteners.
Aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio).
9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins.
Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.
Typically includes aluminum buttons/rail supports (not locks).
High strength ACL copper-lead rod and main bearings.
Fully system balanced and ready to install.
$3000
so all in all about $5000... durn... might as well keep savin for a a2, or just the a..... geeze.. *kicks the dirt*
Last edited by LT2004ever; 07-02-2007 at 05:05 PM.
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