Rep Power: 350

I don't mean while cranking I mean while driving. I think you misunderstood me. You asked if a bad cam sensor would cause this big of a problem. I told you to unplug it and try starting it to show you that the car won't start without it. Plug it back in and drive the car. Datalog the voltage while the car is running. Whether you think the voltage will cause the car to run poorly is irrelevant. You're getting a diagnostic code for just that and that's what you need to troubleshoot.

 
Rep Power: 0

One problem after another. The engine is knocking all over the place. Took it to the shop and that's what we came up with. Going to run it on 94 octane for the next two weeks and see what happens.

I'll post what happens. Might be awhile.

 
Rep Power: 0

For those using a stock narrowband sensor in closed loop. Did you have to disable P0135 error code in order to get closed loop working?

I get a code and open loop - error fuel system status if I don't disable that DTC.

 
Rep Power: 0

So it's been over a month and there has been some progress. Turns out my timing belt was old and sort of stretched (abit lose). Changed the belt (as well as the water pump while it was all taken apart) and the car doesn't seem to have any issues when the engine is hot anymore. No more knocking, no more engine cut. I drive on 91 octane now. However, according to the shop, they still had the engine cut while it was still cold. Thing is that it's not any protection setting in Kmanager that is causing that cut (it's not the cut that lets the engine start once under 2000rpm again). All protection features are disabled anyways. I am trying to collect new datalogs of the problem for the shop which they will send to Doug at Hondata. I have yet to see the engine cut when it's cold since I got the car back though. Guess that's sort of a good and bad thing.

For those with a K-Pro ECU.
- Have you ever tried full throttling the engine to redline from a cold start (car not having been driven for the last 24 hours or so)?
- How does your engine turn over when you start it up using the starter?
- Does it sound like it's firing funny and having a slightly hard time to start?(very very slightly, it starts just as quickly as a proper engine though)
- Do you have to disable P0135 (o2 heater) code for closed loop operation?
- Does your car stay in open loop when unchecking closed loop in Kmanager?

 
Rep Power: 811

well one thing i know is you shouldnt be pushing the car to redline from a cold start. engine should be warm or youre gonna cause even bigger problems later. the vtec does not even switch over if the coolant temp isnt right.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's ok. I think it's a given we all know pushing the car cold is a bad thing.

Which is why I'm wondering if any of the other guys ever tried. We want to know if it's a common problem with a D17 Kpro software or just my tempermental car.

 
Rep Power: 350

You have a warm up enrichment table. When the engine is cold, its dumping fuel. Hitting boost at that low rpm, your a/f's are so rich, the car is going to sputter.