It begins...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
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It begins...
Noon- Pick up motor
4:30- Motor on stand

5:00-10:00 do nothing
Midnight:



The bible is a must, and dont forget to tag and bag it all:

Its that time....
4:30- Motor on stand

5:00-10:00 do nothing
Midnight:



The bible is a must, and dont forget to tag and bag it all:

Its that time....
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 30,677
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 608 










Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 










WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES OF HP GAINS WITH THAT MOTOR .AND WHAT ARE YOU PLANING? GOING BIG BOOST? ILL BE WATCHING YOUR PROGRESS .AS I DO THE SAME THING. SEEING THAT I HAVE TO TEAR DOWN MINE I MIGHT AS WELL DO THE SAME THING ..GOOD LUCK . WHAT IS YOUR GOAL FOR TIME TO COMPLETE ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 










WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES OF HP GAINS WITH THAT MOTOR .AND WHAT ARE YOU PLANING? GOING BIG BOOST? ILL BE WATCHING YOUR PROGRESS .AS I DO THE SAME THING. SEEING THAT I HAVE TO TEAR DOWN MINE I MIGHT AS WELL DO THE SAME THING ..GOOD LUCK . WHAT IS YOUR GOAL FOR TIME TO COMPLETE ? 
The goal is a bombproof motor. I need it to hold up for 20 minutes of straight boost. I dont have a number in mind, 220 would be nice but I'm judging it more on what I think I can safely run without causing a problem with the temperatures.
Ripping apart the block as quick as I can without rushing, then sending it to Darton and packing it full of forged goods. Head is getting the standard Crower stuff and I'm debating if I want to put new valves in it or not.
Trying to get the motor done, broken in and tuned by June 26.
Tell me about it. Its fine where it is for now though.
Buy the valves if you can afford them, in your situation you really should have em. PS dont reuse that timing belt in the picture. Put a new one on every time you take one off. Well if it has actual mileage on it hehe. I think I get mine for 30 bucks or something like that. I always play it safe. Too much money to lose if something goes wrong.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
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Oh dont worry about the T-belt. I just bagged everything I took off so I know where it all is and kept the bolts with it. Most of the sensors and crap are going to be brand new.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 










Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 










11:30 sunday night:
Block stripped, oil pump is off. Need to pull the rear main seal.


Next week I'm gonna yank my crank
Block stripped, oil pump is off. Need to pull the rear main seal.


Next week I'm gonna yank my crank
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Macon GA
Rep Power: 300 




at least u can work on it in some a/c or heat. my shop is either hot as hell or cold as ****. and the roof leaks like crazy. so a inside job, although cramped, might not be such a bad thing
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
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The big issue is just keeping oil and antifreeze off the carpet. I've been doing a pretty good job thus far. Have tons of paper towels handy and the tarp is doing a pretty good job of catching drips. Was a pain in the *** to roll the motor over, everything that didnt drain when it was upright, proceeded to drain. Not much left, but enough to make a mess.
One thing I have learned so far with the one oil drop I got on the carpet... OxyClean is the greatest made for TV product EVER.
One thing I have learned so far with the one oil drop I got on the carpet... OxyClean is the greatest made for TV product EVER.
Pwning Noobs 24/7
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From: Westchester, New York
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i work in my attic since i dont have a garage, if i did that would be kick ***..its good to see you making progress and labeling everything...although you know your good when you dont label and still manage to put everything back together...good luck and build that motor !
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
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Block teardown complete. Its a bare block and a pile of parts.



Gonna try to drop the block off for a hot tanking on thursday and shoot it off to Darton over the weekend for a sleeve job.



Gonna try to drop the block off for a hot tanking on thursday and shoot it off to Darton over the weekend for a sleeve job.
Why hot tank before the sleeve and hone? It will have to be done again anyways....
Are you going with oem main and rod bearings or acl's? I've heard its best to use oem if possible. It can be difficult to determine what color rod bearings if you go oem but from everything I've read, its worth it to stick with oem. I think I used a 2 as my rod code for my crower rods and my bearing crush was perfect.
Are you going with oem main and rod bearings or acl's? I've heard its best to use oem if possible. It can be difficult to determine what color rod bearings if you go oem but from everything I've read, its worth it to stick with oem. I think I used a 2 as my rod code for my crower rods and my bearing crush was perfect.
Thread Starter
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Because darton says to send a hot tanked block or they'll charge you an arm and a leg to do it..... I'm just following their instructions.
I'm using all OE bearings as well, I'll work on sizing them out when the stuff comes back from the machine shop and I can re-assemble it all.
I'm using all OE bearings as well, I'll work on sizing them out when the stuff comes back from the machine shop and I can re-assemble it all.




Good luck and keep us updated 

