New Parts!!!! YES Also Help from N/A Guys Upddate Pg 6 12/25/06
i didnt read anyhitng about arp rod bolts either. you will definately need a good strong set of rod bolts to spin high rpms. you will NEED EMS to set the rev limiter to where your car is making power.
you definately want at least a stg 3 cam. the GUDE specs are actually larger than the crower specs. and he will do all the headwork for you using what ever size valves you want.
i would stray from an I/M like supermex's. his is made for forced induction and will not proved you the same benefit. you need a I/M designed for velocity not volume. i have a couple of b series manifold i will sell you for cheap if you want to try to work something out with them. one is a gsr mani and the other is a jap spec b20 obdI mani. the OBDI mani has all sensors and the throttle body. that may also benefot you in the fact that youll have a larger T/B to work with if needed. i actually have a b16 billet fuel rail to throw in too. the OBDI mani also comes ith a fuel rail and injectors for the b20.
this would also give you the option to run larger injectors as well. but you will need to wire in resistor packs for them.
as far as header i think the hp race header will be fine. it relatively cheap and will do the job just right.
if i remember correctly, didnt Kezay do the R&D for crower with this same set up with the stg 3 cam and make around 180-190whp with a stock I/M??
you definately want at least a stg 3 cam. the GUDE specs are actually larger than the crower specs. and he will do all the headwork for you using what ever size valves you want.
i would stray from an I/M like supermex's. his is made for forced induction and will not proved you the same benefit. you need a I/M designed for velocity not volume. i have a couple of b series manifold i will sell you for cheap if you want to try to work something out with them. one is a gsr mani and the other is a jap spec b20 obdI mani. the OBDI mani has all sensors and the throttle body. that may also benefot you in the fact that youll have a larger T/B to work with if needed. i actually have a b16 billet fuel rail to throw in too. the OBDI mani also comes ith a fuel rail and injectors for the b20.
this would also give you the option to run larger injectors as well. but you will need to wire in resistor packs for them.
as far as header i think the hp race header will be fine. it relatively cheap and will do the job just right.
if i remember correctly, didnt Kezay do the R&D for crower with this same set up with the stg 3 cam and make around 180-190whp with a stock I/M??
i didnt read anyhitng about arp rod bolts either. you will definately need a good strong set of rod bolts to spin high rpms. you will NEED EMS to set the rev limiter to where your car is making power.
you definately want at least a stg 3 cam. the GUDE specs are actually larger than the crower specs. and he will do all the headwork for you using what ever size valves you want.
i would stray from an I/M like supermex's. his is made for forced induction and will not proved you the same benefit. you need a I/M designed for velocity not volume. i have a couple of b series manifold i will sell you for cheap if you want to try to work something out with them. one is a gsr mani and the other is a jap spec b20 obdI mani. the OBDI mani has all sensors and the throttle body. that may also benefot you in the fact that youll have a larger T/B to work with if needed. i actually have a b16 billet fuel rail to throw in too. the OBDI mani also comes ith a fuel rail and injectors for the b20.
this would also give you the option to run larger injectors as well. but you will need to wire in resistor packs for them.
as far as header i think the hp race header will be fine. it relatively cheap and will do the job just right.
if i remember correctly, didnt Kezay do the R&D for crower with this same set up with the stg 3 cam and make around 180-190whp with a stock I/M??
you definately want at least a stg 3 cam. the GUDE specs are actually larger than the crower specs. and he will do all the headwork for you using what ever size valves you want.
i would stray from an I/M like supermex's. his is made for forced induction and will not proved you the same benefit. you need a I/M designed for velocity not volume. i have a couple of b series manifold i will sell you for cheap if you want to try to work something out with them. one is a gsr mani and the other is a jap spec b20 obdI mani. the OBDI mani has all sensors and the throttle body. that may also benefot you in the fact that youll have a larger T/B to work with if needed. i actually have a b16 billet fuel rail to throw in too. the OBDI mani also comes ith a fuel rail and injectors for the b20.
this would also give you the option to run larger injectors as well. but you will need to wire in resistor packs for them.
as far as header i think the hp race header will be fine. it relatively cheap and will do the job just right.
if i remember correctly, didnt Kezay do the R&D for crower with this same set up with the stg 3 cam and make around 180-190whp with a stock I/M??
great help man waht does R and D mean. I cant think today i am sick. I heard the samething on that guy aking 190 hosepower with a stock intake manifold. Now u say velocity what do u mena by that?
R and D = research and development. I believe what familycar meant by reffering to velocity is that you would want an IM that would flow at a high rate. Something with tapered runners, a large plenum and velocity stacks would aid in cleaning up the air and making it flow better.
Last edited by MisterFrankieJ; Dec 17, 2006 at 05:44 PM.
Now that i think of it, if you are planning on going all out and have the money to spend you might want to PM SMSP on honda-tech about making a header. From what i've seen and heard he does awsome work.
Registered!!
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Middleboro,MA
Rep Power: 297 
R and D = research and development. I believe what familycar meant by reffering to velocity is that you would want an IM that would flow at a high rate. Something with tapered runners, a large plenum and velocity stacks would aid in cleaning up the air and making it flow better.
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houma, Louisiana
Rep Power: 305 Good luck with your stuff, I hope it goes well. This site and many members have bad history with DH. I'm sure you knew that already. Keep it up!
If you are going to build a manifold make sure you have some sort of tapered runners with velocity stacks. Straight runners dont work as good for n/a apps. You can get em from Velocity of Sound online. Also that crank looks like a stock crank, is anything done to it? Where did ya buy it? Just making sure you didnt get ripped on it. KMS sold me stock HG for 80 bucks once. People out there suck. The stock crank is probably the best thing to run in it anyway. GL I cant wait to see what happens.
That i can't tell you but if you have access to a flow beach you can test different designs and see what works the best. Even tho dezod is making a FI manifold he might be able to give you some insight.
I don't think it is. I know from working on our formula car that our intake manifold is about that size, so for a engine thats almost 3 times the size but half the RPM's and without a restrictor it should be fine. The stock plenum on a F4i is about the size of our resonator box on a stock D17.
good pics guys!! that is exactly what i was speaking of. stray as far form a forced induction manifold as possible. you need air flow speed not volume! Kezay was the one that did the development for crower and he made good power and it kept pulling after 8k rpms but he couldnt go any higher. that is why EMS is reccomended. he ran 11:1 compression pistons though. you will need race fuel to run that bad boy with 12:5:1 c/r. i dont think youll have a problem making 200whp with this done right!!
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424
On Dec 18, 2006, at 5:27 PM, <service@eaglerod.com> wrote:
Justin,
Sorry. We do not make custom rods.
Thanks.
Justin,
Sorry. We do not make custom rods.
Thanks.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Dec 18, 2006 at 05:19 PM.
There is gl@ss in my @SS...Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,066
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From: Portsmouth, Ohio
Rep Power: 321 I'm sorry man, but you just bought rods for a B series engine.
If the part # was CRS5394H3D. Then they would be for a D16 engine.
Edit: Boilermaker, you beat me to it by 3 minutes, lol
If the part # was CRS5394H3D. Then they would be for a D16 engine.
Edit: Boilermaker, you beat me to it by 3 minutes, lol
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Eagle rods are better than Crower Maxi-lites? Wow, someone needs to slap that guy around.
I just compared the D17 and 16 rods... to make em fit, you'd have to shave the bottom end width down, then either bore out the pin bore, or use a stock bore pin (which I don't think you can with aftermarket pistons.) So ummmm I guess it just depends on if you trust DH's machining after he wrecked everyone elses motor.
So in short, you got eagle rods, which seem to be fairly well engineered despite their price, then they were aftermarket reworked so they fit in this motor.
I just compared the D17 and 16 rods... to make em fit, you'd have to shave the bottom end width down, then either bore out the pin bore, or use a stock bore pin (which I don't think you can with aftermarket pistons.) So ummmm I guess it just depends on if you trust DH's machining after he wrecked everyone elses motor.
So in short, you got eagle rods, which seem to be fairly well engineered despite their price, then they were aftermarket reworked so they fit in this motor.
