Crower F'/I Rods from Dezod
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Crower F'/I Rods from Dezod
I ordered the F/I crower rods from dezod and they dont fit. WTF they fit the bottom of the Cyl wall. I dont even have bigger sleeves. They are stock. I was told these where a direct stock replacement. This is bull ****. Now I have no car and a half built engine. Anybody else have this same problem with the Crower rods?
From what I've seen, crower only makes h beam rods for d17's. Mine will end up being custom made for I beams. I don't think there are an available set made by anyone for an I beam.
Originally Posted by dezod
I emailed Brian Crower about this.....I am awaiting a response
They are closed until the 3rd.
They are closed until the 3rd.
Ok people, notching a block for rods is nothing new. Most b series blocks require notching even for eagle rods. It's a given for a small displacement motor, given the amount of material that is needed in a rod to take the pressures that a true high horsepower engine makes. It only requires a small amount of machine work for clearance. If you're going to have the block out anyways, what difference does it make?
Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
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Originally Posted by andyman97
Ok people, notching a block for rods is nothing new. Most b series blocks require notching even for eagle rods. It's a given for a small displacement motor, given the amount of material that is needed in a rod to take the pressures that a true high horsepower engine makes. It only requires a small amount of machine work for clearance. If you're going to have the block out anyways, what difference does it make?
Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
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yeah. i agree with andy. Whats the big deal its not like you bought crower rods and now because you did you have to make a special trip to the moon!
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Hit it with a die grinder. Kind of a pain the *** if you are installing them with the motor still in the car.
Last edited by civic01vtec; Dec 29, 2005 at 04:13 PM.
Word....
We used a plain rotating toll like a Dremel and a grinder attachment.
Is realy not too hard just keep checking the clearance often while grinding.
Don't cut any more or less.
Make sure that when removing the rods from the crank all the bearings and fasteners go back on the same exact same place and torqued to specs.
Better yet repalce the bearings if your engine has high milage, every block has a unique combination of sizes Honda designates colors
You can get the correct combination by maching the numbers of the crankshaft and the block.
Then polished them good with mothers before install.
You'll need the tech book for this mod.
Take some time and read the following thread it may save you time and $$
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=168101
Good luck man.
We used a plain rotating toll like a Dremel and a grinder attachment.
Is realy not too hard just keep checking the clearance often while grinding.
Don't cut any more or less.
Make sure that when removing the rods from the crank all the bearings and fasteners go back on the same exact same place and torqued to specs.
Better yet repalce the bearings if your engine has high milage, every block has a unique combination of sizes Honda designates colors
You can get the correct combination by maching the numbers of the crankshaft and the block.
Then polished them good with mothers before install.
You'll need the tech book for this mod.
Take some time and read the following thread it may save you time and $$
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=168101
Good luck man.
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Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
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Originally Posted by CrewChief
Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
Keep me posted on the progress.
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There isnt a problem with the rods, its a known fact that the block needs to be notched to clear them
Originally Posted by varner88
i know its not a big deal to notch it but what is up will all the crower parts for the d17 it seems like everything they make has problems.
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Originally Posted by CrewChief
Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
Well i have the Crower Cam stage 2, Crower Valves, Crower Valvespring and Retainer kit and i am 100% Satisfied. Everything fit properly and the cam added some good power. You can instanly feel it. My car never idle bad like people say but the cam did make my car super rich because it opens the valves more and creates less vaccuum so the car injects more fuel... but with a slight tune my car runs so much better with the cam and its a lot stronger and i have not had any problems with crower products.
Well, if a do it yourselfer can't notch a block, then they probably don't know how to measure clerances or properly torque main or rod bolts, hence shouldn't be doing it themselves anyways.
Building an engine isn't something that just anyone with a basic tool set should be attempting. It's not crower's fault that people with no experience in building engines aren't capable enough to install a set of rods.
Building an engine isn't something that just anyone with a basic tool set should be attempting. It's not crower's fault that people with no experience in building engines aren't capable enough to install a set of rods.



