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Crower F'/I Rods from Dezod

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Old Dec 27, 2005
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Crower F'/I Rods from Dezod

I ordered the F/I crower rods from dezod and they dont fit. WTF they fit the bottom of the Cyl wall. I dont even have bigger sleeves. They are stock. I was told these where a direct stock replacement. This is bull ****. Now I have no car and a half built engine. Anybody else have this same problem with the Crower rods?
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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last set i saw installed they had to notch the bottom of the stock sleeve
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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we are about to find out. mine go in next week
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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Yeah man, everywhere I've read, they had to notch the block. That's why I'm going to use I beams instead of H beams.
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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do u think i have the H or the I according to my tag

im thinkin the ID: (I) might mean I

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Old Dec 27, 2005
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Here is a picture of hectors
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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sorry to tell you you have the same ones I have. My tag is the same as yours
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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damnit
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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From what I've seen, crower only makes h beam rods for d17's. Mine will end up being custom made for I beams. I don't think there are an available set made by anyone for an I beam.
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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I emailed Brian Crower about this.....I am awaiting a response


They are closed until the 3rd.
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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no company that i know of makes i beams yet that completely fit for our motor...i notched my block for the crowers, pain in the *** but it was my only solution at the time
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Old Dec 27, 2005
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Originally Posted by dezod
I emailed Brian Crower about this.....I am awaiting a response


They are closed until the 3rd.
Well what going to happen if we already purchased these rods and then we have to modify the block when they said it was direct replacement? Man this sucks and now it has me nervous
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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well nevermind rods.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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What did you use to knotch your block?
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Ok people, notching a block for rods is nothing new. Most b series blocks require notching even for eagle rods. It's a given for a small displacement motor, given the amount of material that is needed in a rod to take the pressures that a true high horsepower engine makes. It only requires a small amount of machine work for clearance. If you're going to have the block out anyways, what difference does it make?

Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Originally Posted by andyman97
Ok people, notching a block for rods is nothing new. Most b series blocks require notching even for eagle rods. It's a given for a small displacement motor, given the amount of material that is needed in a rod to take the pressures that a true high horsepower engine makes. It only requires a small amount of machine work for clearance. If you're going to have the block out anyways, what difference does it make?

Even from pauter, if I had a custom set of I beams made, I'd still have to notch my block.
i love it
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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yeah. i agree with andy. Whats the big deal its not like you bought crower rods and now because you did you have to make a special trip to the moon!
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Yeah that is true. I think when the time comes for me to install mine screw it i am not gonna do it myself anymore i am gonna have a pro do it instead.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Originally Posted by C2i0v0i1C
i love it
What....lol?
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Hit it with a die grinder. Kind of a pain the *** if you are installing them with the motor still in the car.

Last edited by civic01vtec; Dec 29, 2005 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Word....
We used a plain rotating toll like a Dremel and a grinder attachment.
Is realy not too hard just keep checking the clearance often while grinding.
Don't cut any more or less.

Make sure that when removing the rods from the crank all the bearings and fasteners go back on the same exact same place and torqued to specs.
Better yet repalce the bearings if your engine has high milage, every block has a unique combination of sizes Honda designates colors
You can get the correct combination by maching the numbers of the crankshaft and the block.
Then polished them good with mothers before install.
You'll need the tech book for this mod.

Take some time and read the following thread it may save you time and $$

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=168101

Good luck man.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
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Old Dec 28, 2005
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Originally Posted by CrewChief
Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
Glad to hear it all worked out.

Keep me posted on the progress.
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Old Dec 29, 2005
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Man how much psi are you gonna run now? Also what do you plan hp wise and track wise? Keep us updated with it
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Old Dec 29, 2005
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^^^^ Like what besides the rods? I have boughten many products and i have never had problems with anything
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Old Dec 29, 2005
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There isnt a problem with the rods, its a known fact that the block needs to be notched to clear them
Originally Posted by varner88
i know its not a big deal to notch it but what is up will all the crower parts for the d17 it seems like everything they make has problems.
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Old Dec 29, 2005
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Originally Posted by CrewChief
Well I knotched the block. Its was way easyer than I thought. Took about 20 min to do. Everything went back together just fine. Old motor out now time to prep and drop the new motor in.
Don't forget to let us know the new dyno #'s
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Old Dec 30, 2005
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Well i have the Crower Cam stage 2, Crower Valves, Crower Valvespring and Retainer kit and i am 100% Satisfied. Everything fit properly and the cam added some good power. You can instanly feel it. My car never idle bad like people say but the cam did make my car super rich because it opens the valves more and creates less vaccuum so the car injects more fuel... but with a slight tune my car runs so much better with the cam and its a lot stronger and i have not had any problems with crower products.
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Old Dec 30, 2005
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Well, if a do it yourselfer can't notch a block, then they probably don't know how to measure clerances or properly torque main or rod bolts, hence shouldn't be doing it themselves anyways.

Building an engine isn't something that just anyone with a basic tool set should be attempting. It's not crower's fault that people with no experience in building engines aren't capable enough to install a set of rods.
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Old Dec 31, 2005
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Who knows but i was one of the first ones with all that stuff and i haven't had problems like everyone else says that they did.
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