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I have a lot of crap left over from when I installed my oil cooler. Its all -10 line and fittings, I was just gonna use that for the oil return line. I'm pretty darn sure that with the .035 restrictor on the inlet it won't get enough oil to fill a -10 line, but it isn't gonna fill a -8 either and with the gravity feed, back up is not good. But is it possible to have it be TOO big?

I understand more gas and the need of colder plugs, but don't know the number. So someone just give me brands and numbers unless I can find it on my own. (IK20?, other options?)
What about the timing, does it need to be retarded? or is the car gonna just run fine as it is now?

(plan on this list to grow as more stuff comes up)

 
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No, The line is only going to be a couple inches long anyways

 
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THats what i figured.... the drain fitting is a 1/2" thread, which is enormous if they think you're using a dinky line, so I figured -10 was fair game. Good, I just saved $40.

 
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I dont think it would be possible to have to large of a drain

 
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Naw, the turbo gets fed oil pretty fast.

As far as plugs, most ppl use IK20's. Some use IK22's, but i think they aren't need.

As far as timing goes, it is a good idea to retard timing 1 degree for every 50hp gain. The only way to adjust timing is emanage or ems. If you are only gonna be in the 160whp range, i wouldn't worry about unless you go into the 200whp range. Retarding timing does decrease hp, but that is how it is when you are playing it safe.

 
Rep Power: 327

Ohh and this is my ignition map that seems to run the best on the dyno...

 
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I think IK22's are needed for running more than 175-ish whp.

oem plugs for an rsx-s are IK22's and they put down only 165 whp stock.

turbo is gonna get real hot.

 
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Turbos are made to get hot. I'm pretty confident it'll handle it.

Further.... the vac-system...
Tap a line on the IM (booster line pre-check valve)
plug into vac. block
Send to DV, WG Actuator, Boost gauge and e-manage,
then whats the boost tap on the compressor outlet flange to the turbo for?


And....
The crank case vent, can that be vented back into a pressurized line? Or does it need to be re-routed in front of the turbo? I know most of you guys just stick that dinky filter on there.

 
Rep Power: 327

If you were to vent it back in to the charge pipe i would recommend using a catch can in between the vvle cover and the turbo inlet to sperate the oil

 
Rep Power: 296

I use NGK plugs Heat range 7. They can be a pain in the *** to get if people dont know how to cross reference and read plug numbers but they are awesome plugs and seem to hold up well. I'd have to pull one out to tell you the exact numbers. Do not pressurize the crankcase, I have seen what it can do to an engine first hand. I adapted a fitting to the crankcase vent and ran that to a catch can as well as the pcv line. Route a line from the top of the catch can to the intake pipe on the turbo so you are creating some vaccuum in the crankcase, you will usually get better ring seal and not have oil all over the back of the motor. Just make sure it has a drain so you can bleed out the oil every so often.

 
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NGK 7 = IK20 ??

 
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beats me hehe I was told by my tuner that it was the equivalent of one or 2 steps colder than the stock plugs. They use NGK for most all their turbo Hondas from what I was lead to believe.

 
Rep Power: 331

the tap on the compressor outlet goes to your internal wastegate.

 
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^^^ That was what I thought. So then I don't need to run the vac line to the WG.
Which leaves 3 hoses to connect to vac.... the DV, Emanage and the boost gauge.

 
Rep Power: 424

So $50 for a catch can and $50 for the Greddy logo thats on it? Or is there a difference between a generic and a greddy/cusco (I've heard the expensive ones have an internal filter and baffle or an anti-overflow valve incase the tank fills?)

 
Rep Power: 350

I believe that's only if you want to run the spring setting on the wastegate (if you don't use a boost controller.)

As far as plugs, the ones 02fpcivic is talking about are ngk part number 1283. You can get them from autozone or O'Reilly or Napa and they're cheap. The key is to run at least a step colder. These plugs are a step 7. Our stock plugs are 6. I run the 7's as well and have no problems, I prefer the ngk's.

 
Rep Power: 296

I made mine and it was free but I didnt get a Greddy logo Dammit. You could adapt a $20 summit coolant catch can. They have drains in the bottom. use the inlet on the can for the line that runs to the intake pipe on the turbo and get 2 hose barb to npt adapters. drill holes in the plastic catch can that are just big enough for the npt fittings to thread in. you want all your fittings to be at the top of the can. If you dont plan on recirculating into the turbo inlet then you should have a breather on whatever can you use. The harder you push the engine, the more crankcase pressure you create. If you are pulling vaccuum from in between the turbo inlet and air filter, the harder you push the engine the more the turbo spins up, thus creating more vaccuum(providing you have a filtered intake) which is usually enough to properly evac. crankcase pressure. Just check it when you check your oil so it doesnt get overfull and it will be fine.

 
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Thats the plan, 7PSI spring, 7PSI of boost, no controller necessary.

 
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he said he wouldnt be running a controller, thats why i said that. otherwise it would go to the boost controller and then back to the wastegate.

 
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Yep, that's correct.

 
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10-4 on that

 
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I'm also seeking a good place to tap a second water line. The turbo water return is getting dumped back into the radiator return hose. The water inlet is the issue. I don't have a second fitting for the radiator inlet hose.
Heater line crossed my mind (with a 1/2" barb T) and the TB heater crossed my mind, but neither sound nearly as appealing as the radiator hose straight out of the radiator...... hmmm time to get another fitting.

 
Rep Power: 299

I was just browsing this thread and wanted to give you a heads up. I had my wastegate hooked up this way and was only getting about 4psi. I thought i had a boost leak, tore apart the whole piping setup, replaced a couple couplers that i thought would be the cause, nothing helped. While the wastegate was seeing 8psi, the manifold, after pressure drop, intercooler ect was only getting 4-5 psi. Now with the wastegate pressure souce coming from the intake manifold, Im getting a full 8psi without the boost controller.

 
Rep Power: 424

To start, that's actually a good thing. 7PSI probably isn't where I want to start if I can put 5.5 or so through. Without the FMIC I shouldn't have a huge pressure drop and the pipes are shorter too. Something gives me the feeling the WG won't be completely open at 7 anyways. I'll see what happens and go from there.

 
Rep Power: 424

Next one.... IAT sensor. If I put it before turbo (that is, splice the wires), its going to read much lower than it should. Is there a high liklihood of it getting blown out if I mount it up by the TB? Thought about mounting it up there and strapping it on with a few zip ties so it can't pop out of the pipe.
And some pipe questions.... does the compressor inlet typically run under or over the radiator hose?
And since I can't tell without it in the car, approximately where does the compressor outlet sit vertically in relation to other stuff up there? Basically, how low is it?

 
Rep Power: 327

have a nut welded to the charge pipe just before the TB. I think mine was 11mm x 1.0 or 1.25 i forget ..... then thread the outside of the IAT sensor. 10mm was too small for the IAT sensor. Mine has never came out