Need help from turbo people
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look... bottom line...
if they mess up your car or get it running and it's fantastic, come back on here and tell us all about it.. proper tune is a huge part of it but there is always something that comes up when you're boosted... you will always have some sort of issue... after all, our cars were not built to be turbocharged...
just take your time with this, ask your shop all the necessary question, read the threads on here and refer back to the FAQ if you have to... this is your decision and nobody elses.... Do What YOU Want to Do.... If you want to be turbo and want to be a guinea pig, more power to you, if you opt not to then that's great too...
whatever you do good luck to you...
if they mess up your car or get it running and it's fantastic, come back on here and tell us all about it.. proper tune is a huge part of it but there is always something that comes up when you're boosted... you will always have some sort of issue... after all, our cars were not built to be turbocharged...
just take your time with this, ask your shop all the necessary question, read the threads on here and refer back to the FAQ if you have to... this is your decision and nobody elses.... Do What YOU Want to Do.... If you want to be turbo and want to be a guinea pig, more power to you, if you opt not to then that's great too...
whatever you do good luck to you...
Originally Posted by iamboo
just take your time with this, ask your shop all the necessary question
that is mostly why I posted this thread .. there is already a list of questions im preparing to ask the guy as soon as he sends me the full list of parts he will install.. damn whats taking him so long
By reading the Turbo FAQ I understand that there is returnable fuel system and returnless fuel systems. To economic way to settle this is to put a “piggyback” fuel manager, would this make it a returnless fuel system or returnable or none? If the guy mentioned a FPR that means he was thinking of doing a returnless fuel system which is not necessary?
adding piggyback has nothing to do with return or returnless fuel system. If the guy mention about FPR, then you probably have to convert the fuel system to return, since our stock FPR is right on fuel pump assembly and there is no direct replacement for it. The best way to do it is convert it to return and get rid of stock FPR and add a FPR after fuel rail.
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seriously...taking off the IC in the winter is the dumbest idea...but I guess you would rather have an unknicked IC then risk f*ckin up your engine...
I guess some things are more important to ricers
Originally Posted by ShoelessEX
seriously...taking off the IC in the winter is the dumbest idea...but I guess you would rather have an unknicked IC then risk f*ckin up your engine...
I guess some things are more important to ricers
well heres the deal.
piggyback is best way only better thing costs 1400 bucks so F that.
get the greddy emanage and have them tune it.
when you say a "proper tune up and its ok" you mean a proper tune. they dont mean a conventional tune-up. they mean going into the computer via piggyback or other interface and changing how much fuel is put in and when the spark plug fires so it runs at the best it can. that is a good tune. thats what they mean. and if he told you no turb can be bad hes an idiot. make sure he knows the limit of your car. tell him most people only go to 10 psi with a t25 and 6psi with a t3 60 trim. that should give him an idea of what our engines will handle. and have a written warranty and gaurantee on his parts and labor.
p.s. if you need a fuel system let him know you can get a throttle body spacer that has 2 supplemental injectors in it and it comes with a fuel adjustment tuning interface. (ive got one for sale) its from the tsi extreme kit......very popular.
pm me for info and the link is in my sig.
piggyback is best way only better thing costs 1400 bucks so F that.
get the greddy emanage and have them tune it.
when you say a "proper tune up and its ok" you mean a proper tune. they dont mean a conventional tune-up. they mean going into the computer via piggyback or other interface and changing how much fuel is put in and when the spark plug fires so it runs at the best it can. that is a good tune. thats what they mean. and if he told you no turb can be bad hes an idiot. make sure he knows the limit of your car. tell him most people only go to 10 psi with a t25 and 6psi with a t3 60 trim. that should give him an idea of what our engines will handle. and have a written warranty and gaurantee on his parts and labor.
p.s. if you need a fuel system let him know you can get a throttle body spacer that has 2 supplemental injectors in it and it comes with a fuel adjustment tuning interface. (ive got one for sale) its from the tsi extreme kit......very popular.
pm me for info and the link is in my sig.
wow man this deal seems very very shady. if i were you i'd step back and think about this first. do you have another vehicle to drive if yours is messed up cuz basicly they want to try turbocharging your car to see if they can do it. they could blow up your car or they could make 200+ hp. thats a big gamble to take man. its your call.
good luck
good luck
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Just an FYI, AEM is a standalone, e-manage is a piggyback
like I said, you have quite more coming to you in the form of the fuel system.
like I said, you have quite more coming to you in the form of the fuel system.
wow I got the list that they will be installing and damn guys.. the more I read the more i wanna get away from this deal.. its rediculus .. check this out ..
SS Downpipe
Aluminium Piping
Aluminium Up pipe
Aluminium Test Pipe to replace the Intercooler in the winter.
Aluminium Front-mount Intercooler
Turbo K03 wastegate Interne
Blow-off Valve Bosch
Fuel Pressure regulator AEM
then adds.. the injectors dont need to be changed cuz ill be running 6-8 PSI.. thats far from what ive learned from you guys and I trust yall much more than them... maybe I'm wrong though and correct me if I am
SS Downpipe
Aluminium Piping
Aluminium Up pipe
Aluminium Test Pipe to replace the Intercooler in the winter.
Aluminium Front-mount Intercooler
Turbo K03 wastegate Interne
Blow-off Valve Bosch
Fuel Pressure regulator AEM
then adds.. the injectors dont need to be changed cuz ill be running 6-8 PSI.. thats far from what ive learned from you guys and I trust yall much more than them... maybe I'm wrong though and correct me if I am
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Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
wow I got the list that they will be installing and damn guys.. the more I read the more i wanna get away from this deal.. its rediculus .. check this out ..
SS Downpipe
Aluminium Piping
Aluminium Up pipe
Aluminium Test Pipe to replace the Intercooler in the winter.
Aluminium Front-mount Intercooler
Turbo K03 wastegate Interne
Blow-off Valve Bosch
Fuel Pressure regulator AEM
then adds.. the injectors dont need to be changed cuz ill be running 6-8 PSI.. thats far from what ive learned from you guys and I trust yall much more than them... maybe I'm wrong though and correct me if I am
SS Downpipe
Aluminium Piping
Aluminium Up pipe
Aluminium Test Pipe to replace the Intercooler in the winter.
Aluminium Front-mount Intercooler
Turbo K03 wastegate Interne
Blow-off Valve Bosch
Fuel Pressure regulator AEM
then adds.. the injectors dont need to be changed cuz ill be running 6-8 PSI.. thats far from what ive learned from you guys and I trust yall much more than them... maybe I'm wrong though and correct me if I am
what about the manifold? will the manifold be equal length tubular or log style?? my guess would be log because of the turbo that they picked out for the car... but seriously... a k03???
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Originally Posted by iamboo
It was so nice until you got to the part about the k03 internally wastegated turbo.... that thing is TINY... the k03's are what come out of stock volkswagons... the inlet itself is only the size of a US half dollar coin.... the BOV is a bosch too... it's not much of a bov... it's more of a bypass... what's the use in the FPR?? the fuel system isn't going to be a return system running tons of fuel pressure..... you're using stock injectors so it's pointless... i would only use the FPR if i was running bigger injectors...
what about the manifold? will the manifold be equal length tubular or log style?? my guess would be log because of the turbo that they picked out for the car... but seriously... a k03???
what about the manifold? will the manifold be equal length tubular or log style?? my guess would be log because of the turbo that they picked out for the car... but seriously... a k03???

exactly.......now we find out why that kit is so cheap.
Indeed now everything is unfolded! I guess its cheap and realible but not powerfull, which for me makes it pointless to have it even if its so cheap.. does anyone have the numbers of that thing?.. everytime i search K03 its about VW 1.8T. what about the you wont need to change ur injectors cuz ull only be running 6-8 PSI? damn that sucks Last edited by nova4dr_racer; Nov 15, 2005 at 04:00 PM.
Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
Indeed now everything is unfolded! I guess its cheap and realible but not powerfull, which for me makes it pointless to have it even if its so cheap.. does anyone have the numbers of that thing?.. everytime i search K03 its about VW 1.8T. what about the you wont need to change ur injectors cuz ull only be running 6-8 PSI? damn that sucksjust save up and get a much much nicer kit.
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Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
then adds.. the injectors dont need to be changed cuz ill be running 6-8 PSI...
WOOOOOOOOOOOW
Im very glad you arent going thru w/this...very very shady...and the guy seems like he knows NOTHING about turboing a car
Originally Posted by ShoelessEX
WOOOOOOOOOOOW
Im very glad you arent going thru w/this...very very shady...and the guy seems like he knows NOTHING about turboing a car
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i had the K03 on my wifes 98 4-door auto civic. It was great.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
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Originally Posted by turboengnr
i had the K03 on my wifes 98 4-door auto civic. It was great.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
it'll have a really really fast spool up time but if you plan on making any more power, i would personally go with a bigger turbo.... i'm not saying that the k03 is a bad turbo... i'm just saying that for a little more money, you should be able to get a decent sized turbo plus some extra's on the kit....
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the K03 makes the car feel like it has a large displacement motor. If i power braked the car, i would make 4 psi at 1200 rpm. You cant beat that for spoolup time.....
But that turbo can make more than 200 hp. So it can exceed what most are doing with a T3.
But that turbo can make more than 200 hp. So it can exceed what most are doing with a T3.
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Originally Posted by turboengnr
i had the K03 on my wifes 98 4-door auto civic. It was great.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
I built the kit. 31"x6"x2.5" intercooler. Tubular manifold. 2.25" downpipe. It ran great. On 6 psi she was able to take out 5-speed B16's in hatchbacks.
So whats wrong with this turbo? I guarantee that it will still make enough airflow to break every part of your motor.
.....Isn't this turbo for VW 1.8T engine??
If chipped you can get 170whp out of it.
Then why cant this work for d17, you ask me???
That's because everyone thinks you need to go bigger and use only 1/2 of turbine potential for more $.
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yes, its for a 1.8T. A low compression, moderately-high boost level motor.
Our motors are in fact more efficient than those. Simply stated, that means that on the same airflow, our motor will make more power.
You say 170 chipped at the wheels on a stock 1.8T motor. Id bet you that it can make over 200 on our motor.
I would have to say that my ***-dyno felt like my wifes car was around 150 whp and about 170 torque at the wheels with that little turbo.
When my car was up and running before, we would screw around and race up to the speed limit when ever we were following eachother. My car was making 235 whp and over 200 wtq. And she would beat me pretty much every time to 50 mph. The off-the-line power of that turbo was incredible.
I would bet anything that her car on 6 psi was in the high 14's. And my car was a mid 13 second car.
The turbo does lack some high end power, but it makes up for it with great drivability and insane low end power.
Our motors are in fact more efficient than those. Simply stated, that means that on the same airflow, our motor will make more power.
You say 170 chipped at the wheels on a stock 1.8T motor. Id bet you that it can make over 200 on our motor.
I would have to say that my ***-dyno felt like my wifes car was around 150 whp and about 170 torque at the wheels with that little turbo.
When my car was up and running before, we would screw around and race up to the speed limit when ever we were following eachother. My car was making 235 whp and over 200 wtq. And she would beat me pretty much every time to 50 mph. The off-the-line power of that turbo was incredible.
I would bet anything that her car on 6 psi was in the high 14's. And my car was a mid 13 second car.
The turbo does lack some high end power, but it makes up for it with great drivability and insane low end power.
well i spoke to some VW 1.8T guys and they say they make arround 220 WHP with a k03.. would a super avc-r be considered as chipped or I would need to change my computer fully? and what if swapped the d17a1 head? lower compressions
.. also would it help if I still changed my injectors or it would be useless?
.. also would it help if I still changed my injectors or it would be useless? Last edited by nova4dr_racer; Nov 16, 2005 at 01:51 PM.
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Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
well i spoke to some VW 1.8T guys and they say they make arround 220 WHP with a k03.. would a super avc-r be considered as chipped or I would need to change my computer fully? and what if swapped the d17a1 head? lower compressions
.. also would it help if I still changed my injectors or it would be useless?
.. also would it help if I still changed my injectors or it would be useless?You will need a piggyback (emanage) or standalone (AEM EMS) engine management and a set of larger injectors.
An AVC-r is a boost controller. Nothing more.
You can swap heads, but you dont have to. I have a fully ported LX head for sale. It is what helped me make 235 whp boosted on my stock LX.
Originally Posted by turboengnr
I have a fully ported LX head for sale. It is what helped me make 235 whp boosted on my stock LX.
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i want $200 + shipping for both my stock LX head, and the Ported one.
If you dont want both, then $150 for the ported, and $50 for the stock one.
A ported EX head would be better in the long run for a built motor. Thats why i swapped. I simply want the stage 3 crower cam. They dont make that for an LX. Plus i got a good deal on the motor.
If i was not going to try to make over 400 whp, then i probably would have stuck with the LX head. I think that i could have made well over 300 whp with the ported head i have. But i am greedy, and i want 425 or more whp.
If you dont want both, then $150 for the ported, and $50 for the stock one.
A ported EX head would be better in the long run for a built motor. Thats why i swapped. I simply want the stage 3 crower cam. They dont make that for an LX. Plus i got a good deal on the motor.
If i was not going to try to make over 400 whp, then i probably would have stuck with the LX head. I think that i could have made well over 300 whp with the ported head i have. But i am greedy, and i want 425 or more whp.




Wish I had a Turbo 