INjector Correction on E-Manage?
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Originally Posted by Hwoody77
What is your factory injector setting? 220 CC? 230CC? 240CC?
Originally Posted by dezod
4.5V
Where in the e-manage settings I shold change the voltage clamp.
Is in the Boost Limiter Cut setting?
Right below the RPM chart.
I'm looking at mine and I have 2.95
I also corrected the injector setting from 240/310 to 275 /310 as suggested.
It fixed some of the getting to ritch when boosting.
But I got CEL 1122 (throttle voltage to low)
Now I changed it to 260/310 I'll drive it and see what I'll get
Sorry I'm still learning e-manage so any help is apreciated
Also an additional question
Our injectors are 240?
RSX type S injectors 310?
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Originally Posted by Supermex
Question:
Where in the e-manage settings I shold change the voltage clamp.
Is in the Boost Limiter Cut setting?
Right below the RPM chart.
I'm looking at mine and I have 2.95
I also corrected the injector setting from 240/310 to 275 /310 as suggested.
It fixed some of the getting to ritch when boosting.
But I got CEL 1122 (throttle voltage to low)
Now I changed it to 260/310 I'll drive it and see what I'll get
Sorry I'm still learning e-manage so any help is apreciated
Also an additional question
Our injectors are 240?
RSX type S injectors 310?
Where in the e-manage settings I shold change the voltage clamp.
Is in the Boost Limiter Cut setting?
Right below the RPM chart.
I'm looking at mine and I have 2.95
I also corrected the injector setting from 240/310 to 275 /310 as suggested.
It fixed some of the getting to ritch when boosting.
But I got CEL 1122 (throttle voltage to low)
Now I changed it to 260/310 I'll drive it and see what I'll get
Sorry I'm still learning e-manage so any help is apreciated
Also an additional question
Our injectors are 240?
RSX type S injectors 310?
Out stock injectors are 240, RSX on stock FP are 310.
I had never gotten 1122 CEL. I probably had gotten every CEL under the rainbow but that one. Maybe your TPS sensor is going?
I had gotten tps cels as well. Not sure if it was the 1122, but I had gotten them. But, I do have a d16y8 intake manifold with that sensor. You may want to make sure your tps wiring is good....
I'd be willing to bet that if you fix the injector correction factor, it'd prolly take care of the tps cel though. Worth a shot. That's why I'm getting the aem, no cels ever again!!!
I'd be willing to bet that if you fix the injector correction factor, it'd prolly take care of the tps cel though. Worth a shot. That's why I'm getting the aem, no cels ever again!!!
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Originally Posted by andyman97
That's why I'm getting the aem, no cels ever again!!!
Ask the standalone users of Haltech, TEC3, Motech etc.
Most standalones require special signals from special sensors to determine data and make corrections in tune, however some signals may not be available so you may have to manipulate or create a signal....A standalone creates the signal for fuel and/or ignition as apposed to intercepting and altering like a piggy back.
Last edited by dezod; Sep 13, 2005 at 10:03 PM.
Originally Posted by dezod
Funniest line ever. Let the CELs begin. Standalones typically cause MORE CELs than piggybacks.
Ask the standalone users of Haltech, TEC3, Motech etc.
Most standalones require special signals from special sensors to determine data and make corrections in tune, however some signals may not be available so you may have to manipulate or create a signal....A standalone creates the signal for fuel and/or ignition as apposed to intercepting and altering like a piggy back.
Ask the standalone users of Haltech, TEC3, Motech etc.
Most standalones require special signals from special sensors to determine data and make corrections in tune, however some signals may not be available so you may have to manipulate or create a signal....A standalone creates the signal for fuel and/or ignition as apposed to intercepting and altering like a piggy back.
The aem only does what you tell it to. If you have a tuner who knows what he's doing, and is aem certified, you don't have to worry about it, anyways. Sorry, but if the emanage can't get 440cc's to idle without throwing codes, causing all kinds of issues, I'd rather use something that can.
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Originally Posted by andyman97
Mmm, no.
The aem only does what you tell it to. If you have a tuner who knows what he's doing, and is aem certified, you don't have to worry about it, anyways. Sorry, but if the emanage can't get 440cc's to idle without throwing codes, causing all kinds of issues, I'd rather use something that can.
The aem only does what you tell it to. If you have a tuner who knows what he's doing, and is aem certified, you don't have to worry about it, anyways. Sorry, but if the emanage can't get 440cc's to idle without throwing codes, causing all kinds of issues, I'd rather use something that can.
Tuning is far more difficult to the end user. A trained professional is probably recommended too.
Here are a couple to wet your taste buds:
Originally Posted by A Boost IS300 Standalone Owner
Well as some of you may have known I was having problems with what I thought were fried wires (again). So I replaced them this weekend hoping all would be good again. Well after replacing all TB and o2 sensor wires I disconnected the battery, the ECU reset and started car, as soon as I started CEL and TRAC light were both on as if what I attempted to fix did nothing. Car is STILL in limp mode. I have yet to find someone to come to my house with a diagnostic computer so I dont know the codes the car is putting out yet. Are there any other problems that would cause limp mode or a CEL with Trac light flashing? Im going crazy trying to figure this out.
Originally Posted by IS300 w/ A Haltech Standalone
What can be causing crank position sensor signal interference? I had the signal on an oscilloscope and its fine on idle but then breaks up when I try to accelerate. I have the stock signal tapped with a wire from the ecu to a conditioner on top of the ecu box.
Originally Posted by IS300 w/ a Haltech
Who wants to help?
So fer me, I get one code; P1300 which is a toyota code for "Igniter Circuit Malfunction"
Background info:
The ignitor itself it bypassed. Coils are connected directly to the ignition unit.
Anyone know how to overcome this?
This is the only code I get...and I'm guessing that this code prevents the car from doing any further diagnostics as I'm almost positive I should be throwing more than just that. I hope I'm wrong and this is the only one I have to deal with.
So fer me, I get one code; P1300 which is a toyota code for "Igniter Circuit Malfunction"
Background info:
The ignitor itself it bypassed. Coils are connected directly to the ignition unit.
Anyone know how to overcome this?
This is the only code I get...and I'm guessing that this code prevents the car from doing any further diagnostics as I'm almost positive I should be throwing more than just that. I hope I'm wrong and this is the only one I have to deal with.
Originally Posted by TEC3 Owner
How do you guys increase the car's idle?
My idle fluctuate from 700 - 800 in one day, and 400 - 500 the next day (and so on...)
I tried adjusting the idle sensor but to no avail,
adjusting the idle sensitivity doesnt seems to make any differences either.
My idle fluctuate from 700 - 800 in one day, and 400 - 500 the next day (and so on...)
I tried adjusting the idle sensor but to no avail,
adjusting the idle sensitivity doesnt seems to make any differences either.
Originally Posted by TEC3 Owner
whats up guys- i got my tec 3r from PFS and i i have been having a hard time getting the car to idle right and now that i have the idle issue corrected i am having issues keeping the A/C from clicking on and off at idle- the air works great at cruising but at a stop its on off all the time- also i have a check engine light that show the code for camshaft position sensor- circuit malfunction- checked the circuit it is OK- also got another stock ecu in case it was that but still the same codes- Ray reccomended that i adjust the TPS to control idle but any slight movement and the car is very erratic- me and Ray are in the process of resolving it but any other input would be very helpful-
I don't honestly think that people don't have issues with standalones. What I'm saying is a standalone will get rid of the issues I am having with the emanage that can't be solved. Plus I have a certified aem tuner to tune it anyways, so I won't have to worry about cels anymore making my car run like crap.
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Originally Posted by andyman97
I don't honestly think that people don't have issues with standalones. What I'm saying is a standalone will get rid of the issues I am having with the emanage that can't be solved. Plus I have a certified aem tuner to tune it anyways, so I won't have to worry about cels anymore making my car run like crap.
Originally Posted by dezod
That is the map you need to alter to 4.5.
Out stock injectors are 240, RSX on stock FP are 310.
I had never gotten 1122 CEL. I probably had gotten every CEL under the rainbow but that one. Maybe your TPS sensor is going?
Out stock injectors are 240, RSX on stock FP are 310.
I had never gotten 1122 CEL. I probably had gotten every CEL under the rainbow but that one. Maybe your TPS sensor is going?
Do I need to alter the RPM settings?
I have a Mustang TB and TBS attached to it.
I wonder if that could be the culprit.
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