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Ok, not sure what the issue is. I picked up a PLX m300 wideband controller and sensor. I went to wire eveyrthing up tonight and for some reason I'm getting a CEL. I've run the sensor in place of my primary o2 sensor and I've ran the gray wire off of the wideband to the ecu for a narrowband input.

I've also run two 10W 10 Ohm resistors in series between the heater wire and heater ground. Still getting a cel. Any ideas? I don't have a scan tool so I'm not sure exactly what the code is. I also have a 0.01 farad capacitor between the gray narrowband signal wire and the ground. I've done everything as PLX said to do it and I'm stuck......

 
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keep your original sensor alone. Re-wire it back up stock. You want nothing to do with that. You have to have a new bung welded on for the new sensor, and just use what they gave you with your wideband kit. Im guessing a display of some sort.

JUST LEAVE THE STOCK SENSORS ALONE! IT HAS TO BE HOOKED UP EXACTLY HOW IT WAS WHEN YOU BOUGHT THE CAR. It shouldnt require tapping into it. Unless its a power wire, which you can use elsewhere, and the ground, which shouldnt be tapped into anything.



anybody else want to throw some info in

 
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well you gotta tap the primary if you are doing narrowband a/f gauge. But if your running a WB you need to get a bung welded in near your cat (if you don't have it lol) and then follow the directions. The WB does not run off any of your normal o2 sensors...

 
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Your stock O2 sensors remain untouched in their same positions. DO NOT MOVE, TAP, SPLICE or do anything to them.

For a wideband O2, you will want to get an O2 bung....
http://dezod.com/pd_weld.cfm

Have it welded in as close to the turbo as possible on the downpipe. Mount in your wideband and begin tuning.

 
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Ya do for narrowband lol

 
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Our stock O2's are narrowband.

 
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yeah, but the question was for wideband. He shouldnt have touched any of the stock stuff. For running a narrowband gauge, yeah, you tap into the stock wires. But for a wideband, dont touch anything, except what they gave you, and weld a new bung in for the sensor. Your Check engine light WILL go off once you wire it back to stock (solder, dont crimp), and put the sensor back in there. The sensor isnt seeing anything but air, so its gonna be throwing a CEL. The new 02 is just for your wideband display. It does NOT connect to the ECU in any way. The car does not even know the wideband is there. You leave it seperate and just use their display that came with the wideband for tuning.


You should be able to understand that. I wrote it a few different ways.

 
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I meant if your tapping it for a narrowband gauge lol

 
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There's nothing wrong with replacing your stock O2 with the PLX wideband. The PLX allows a narrowband output for the ECU.

Problem is that the stock O2 location is not the best location for the O2 readings. I believe that PLX recommends 15" from the ports to be ideal (I could be off).

Now, as far as the cel, not sure on that. You followed everthing that PLX suggested (heater stuff). Might want to call them.

 
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Per PLX Website

Can the M-Series narrowband output be used to replace my stock oxygen sensor?

Yes, if your vehicle comes equipped with a standard narrowband oxygen sensor, you can use the narrowband output (gray wire) to feed that directly into your ECU. This eliminates the hassle of having to weld a second oxygen sensor bung onto your downpipe. PLXApp004 contains more details.

http://www.plxdevices.com/PLXApp004.htm

"Typically, if your stock sensor is a 4-wire, 3-wire, 2-wire or 1-wire, the outputs should match, and your setup will be compatible. The procedure below assumes that a 4-wire or 3-wire narrowband oxygen sensor is being replaced.

*For 2-wire or 1 wire narrowband o2 sensor replacement, ignore the step #8. You do not need to install the power resistors.

Procedure

1, Locate and disconnect the stock narrowband oxygen sensor. If your vehicle is an OBD II system or
above, replace the primary sensor. The primary sensor is located before the catalytic converter. As
a general rule, vehicles after 1995 are OBD II.
2. Remove the narrowband sensor and install the wideband sensor in its place.
3. Torque the sensor to 45 N*m or 33 lb-ft
4. Connect the gray sensor harness between the wideband O2 sensor and the M-Series Controller.
5. Connect the power (red) wire of the M-Series to a 12V power source at a location near the ECU. This
power should only be supplied when the key is turned past a specific position. Make sure that this
connection is capable of supplying at least 3Amps of current.
6. Connect the ground (black) wire of the M-Series to chassis ground near the ECU. By keeping the wires
short and close to the ECU allows the M-Series and the ECU to see the same reference ground. This
results in more accurate and reliable narrowband closed loop operation.
7. Connect the simulated narrowband signal (gray) wire from the M-Series controller to the O2 signal
input wire. This is the same wire that would come from your stock narrowband 0-1V signal.
8. Install the 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor to prevent the engine check error code. This allows your ECU
to "think" that your stock narrowband sensor is still being heated. This resistor can be obtained from
your local radio shack or electronics store. If 20 Ohms is not available, two 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistors
connected in series (not parallel) will also work.
9. Install the noise filtering capacitor across Chassis GND and O2 Signal Input as close as possible to the
ECU. This eliminates unwanted electrical noise and increases close loop ECU performance. This capacitor
is not illustrated below. See installation instructions for more information.

*It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that your 20 Ohm resistor is rated 10 Watts or greater. This resistor gets
hot during operation and extreme care must be taken to find a suitable location to mount. Avoid contact
with plastic, wires, tubes and any material that may potentially be flammable.

*You may use two 10 Ohm 10 Watt resistors connected in series as an alternate solution. Radio Shack
part#271-132."

Does the M-Series wideband controllers work with my engine management system?

If your engine management system (stand alone or piggy back), is capable of a 0-5V input signal and your software is capable of defining the relationship between voltage and air/fuel ratio, the M-Series Controllers will be compatible with your setup. Check out our Application Notes page for more information. If you have a successful setup that we have not published yet, let us know about it!

I would like to weld another sensor bung on my downpipe. Where is a good location to mount the wideband sensor?

Anywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo is a good location. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius. Both the Bosch and NTK sensor fit into 18 x 1.5mm thread.

I lost my capacitors. What are the specifications of the included noise filtering capacitors?

The noise filtering capacitors are standard 0.1uF 50V capacitors. They can be picked up from your local electronics store. Radio Shack also has them.

 
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Thanks Havok. Yeah, I got it working right. I'm not using the wideband to tune just yet, just getting everything ready for turbo still. Turns out I was using a common ground instead of the actual heater ground, causing open loop instead of closing it but I got it right now. And the CEL is gone, runs fine and displays exactly what it should.

For those reading this thread, I hope other members' comments don't scare you off from trying to wire a wideband in place of the stock narrowband. It is doable and the PLX works just fine for that.

 
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Quote:

Originally Posted by andyman97

I've run the sensor in place of my primary o2 sensor and I've ran the gray wire off of the wideband to the ecu for a narrowband input.

What I think most don't realize is that this system actually runs a signal from the wideband computer for the narrowband output. You tap that wire into the ecu so that it still reads a narrowband voltage. What you have to do after that is trick the ecu into thinking it is still heating a sensor, when it really isn't....but because it gets a narrowband reading, it thinks everything is the same.

Doing this can save you the hassle of welding in a new bung and running 3 unnecessary o2 sensors. That's what is so great about PLX. They helped me solve my issue and are really good with customer support and their units are very accurate. I highly recommend them.

 
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if you get the time i encourage you to do a write up on how to properly wire one up !

 
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I know that the Zeitronix one I have has that ability But of course OBDII didn't take likely to it =*(

 
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well, plx has wiring instructions. It's really simple. But, I ended up throwing a code for high voltage on the bank 1 o2 sensor so I disconnected it. I may try it again later, we'll see.

 
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I can't stop laughing about/at your response...I don't think I've read anythign so misguided and silly in a good while...this ranks up there with the best of them...

Even though the answer was already put out, I'll just continue to reiterate the point...

While the PLX directions call for it's placement to be aroudn 15" away from the turbocharger, it will provide an accurate reading from 4" to about 20" after I called the company...some instances that I've encounterd with the install have not permitted me to be able to place the sensor 15" away, so I called to verify this information...the only warning from the company was that placing the element close to the turbine would undoubtedly shorten it's lifespan...but then again, I've not seen anythign firsthand have premature failure from being placed less than 15" away...

And again as stated, the PLX wideband has a specific wire that you splice into your factory narrowband input into your ECU

TIDBIT: THe wideband o2 output is actually even more precise than the factory o2 output


But again please...if you're not sure in what your saying, please don't try to pass along false information to members...I base all of my replies/comments from personal experience, not from 'what I heard from the forums'

 
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Dont be an ***. Get away from this site if you want to be a ****. I was not the only one with that response. With the other widebands people have been using with our car, they DO NOT tap into the stock sensor. For this one fine, but most every other person on this site, did not do that.

and no **** a wideband is more accurate than the factory. Cuz the factory is narrowband, it will only get rich/lean reading basically. not accurate.


Go to another site if you want to flame people! its not wanted here. ****

 
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My intentions were not to 'flame' you...just a little bit of internet sarcasm (much like your little smiley guy at the endof your reply)

My goal was to use your post as an example for members to do research on some thigns outside their traditional forums...and to perhaps get opinions from others who may have had more experience with a particular product....

After rereading my reply I can see how you took it the wrong way...didn't mean to hurt anyones feelings or the sort...if you read through my previous posts i'm sure you will be able to see that I've tried to help many people here by providing as much info as possible....

 
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I for one havent seen any write ups on the PLX replacing the stock o2 sensor (on our cars )and have it work flawlessly yet. And i for one am in the middle of my turbo install and will be welding in the third o2 bung to eliminate any possible issues. Thats why i asked for someone to do a write up ona WORKING setup if they get it to work!