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I've read the stickied threads and the FAQ on this. But theres one option I didnt see, an extra injector.

It may sound ghetto, but it's been done on many cars over the years. Just grab a cold start injector from a Saab ect (not a normal injector) and stick it in your intercooler piping just before the throttle body. Then run a Hobbs pressure switch to switch the injector on at 3-4psi, or wherever you go lean.

Can anyone inform me why this method isnt used on turbocharged D17's? My only concerns are the returnless fuel system and the plastic intake. Is there anything else to worry about?

edit: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_extrainj.html

This link applies to 2.5l TD engines. I've used this method on my Turbo Caravan, thats why I'm asking here

 
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Extra Injectors are used on the TSI kit.

 
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yup. I have 2 extra injectors

 
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thats more of a quick fix. if you plan on breaking the 10+ psi range then you should really plan on doing the return conversion and getting some 440+ RC injectors and raise your fuel pressure.

 
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yup^^

 
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Thanks guys, thats what I needed to know.

This is on my friends car btw. Its a 2001 LX. This is a daily driver.

I don't like adding bigger injectors because of problems running rich at idle/low rpms. I know a rrfpr would fix this, but it's out of budget. Im hoping the larger size cold start injector will support 6-7psi (I think it will). Will the stock fuel pump/fpr support 6-7psi?

I plan to add a 2 stage boost switch with 2 MBC's. When off, it will run at 3psi. When switched on, it will run at 6-7psi with the pressure switch activating the injector at 3psi.

This will be a budget ($600) turbo system. I'll post pics and total cost when finished.

 
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it will never happen ........good luck though

 
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600, hahahahahahahahahaha! You wish. Youll be lucky to get away with 2000 from the cheapest crappier parts. I have a 01LX as well thats a daily driver. It wouldnt be daily driver if it was a 600 dollar setup. It woulda blown by now.

I have 2 injectors, that can support up to 14psi of boost. I wouldnt want to use them past 10 or 11psi though. I will upgrade before i do that.

Good luck with everything, you'll need it!

 
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If I do all the work myself. $600 is very reasonable. I think its insane to buy $200 I/C piping and $200 BOV's, or these $3000 kits (little exaggeration). I'll show you guys a price breakdown later. The system will be reliable and effective.

For a fast daily driver, you do not need silicone i/c piping. You dont need RFL BOV (I can get a louder one for $5 ). You do not need a huge intercooler. I use a Probe I/C in my van running 14psi, its small and works great at such low boost. I will probably install the same one on the Honda. Im going to run 17psi in my van soon, so I will need a more effecient I/C for better flow and heat reduction. My turbo is running much hotter than a t3/t4 hybrid spooling at 6-7psi

Most of the money will go torwards the t3/t4 hybrid and the t3 flange header. Everything else will cost a couple bucks here and there. I am not afraid of "blowing up the engine". It will be the same thing as adding a kit, only not as nice looking. I'm experienced enough with turbo cars and know how to be carefull when adding boost/fuel

 
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The motor won't be able to handle the 3psi.

600? Manifold alone will be most of that unless you build one. I assume you can make custom piping for everything else with no materials costs?

I'd love to see the a/f dyno sheet of the car with the extra injector on a pressure switch.

Tell him to have an extra HG around

 
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I read that the engine will run 3psi without any mods. It may be an on/off situation if it cant handle it. Of course I will watch the a/f ratio before adding any boost. I'll also use a wideband o2 for initial tuning.

I was looking at the OBX t3 flange manifolds on eBay. I just posted about them in this forum. I heard they were crappy but noone said why. If that won't work, I'll keep looking for a used one. Nothing is final yet.

Well, it seems the kits sold here use them. Its a dirty way to add fuel, but it works. And it is safe for the engine as long as its done right.

No need.

 
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i am not one to pound on the new memebers, but man, you have to be realistic...that have a properly built, safe, reliable turbo setup, you will a minimum of $3000....the extra little crap here and there will cost you more that 600bucks...i almost have that much money in gauges...(aem wideband, boost, and oil pressure) becareful of what you get off of ebay...especially the obx manifold...sure they look cool and stuff, but the reason they are unsuccessful is that that are made of thin stainless and are cheaply welded....i mean, face it...you and i, and the rest of the 7thgen family know that you cant turbo any car for 600 bucks and it be worth anything, but i wish you the best of luck....

 
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Good Luck. I know from experience.

 
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Heh, if you bought 4 U-bends at $20 each, no to mention hoses, clamps and such there goes prolly %20 of your budget on just the piping. Good luck on the $600 kit. Hell i paid $800 for just my turbo . I wish i could have only spent $600 and i aint even done yet!

 
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I dont know what your gonna use to add more fuel. But I would say AFC is the cheapest for our cars, it sucks for a boosted car, and its gonna run 300 bucks.