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sounds like you have a rod knockin to me.

 
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yep the only thing that makes a clack clack to the speed of the rpms. That sucks sorry about your luck . You have a couple of options

1.) try have the problem fixed (most likley more costly than buying a used D17 that a member swaped out). If you are going to go this route QUIT driving the car ASAP the last thing that you want to do is to through a rod.
the possible benifits to this are you could DIY or have a tuner shop do the work and have the block sleeved, However a sleeved block is useless on our cars unless you build the head so you will have to build the head as well. You could then raise the boost and potentially have a 400 hp civic.

2.)As stated above buy a used D17 ( I would not buy a built engine of any kind. IMO I would want to know how it was built and ran) you could then put your tubo back on and have what you have now

3.) Sell your turbo and swap a K 20a2 type R I don't know what type of turbo you have, but I would guess that you could get 2-3K out of it. Then spend another 3K and have a bit more hp with the potential for ALOT of hp

 
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swap it that's what i would do because you can get A LOT more out of a K20.

 
Rep Power: 360

uh what a pain in the ***. its funny cause i dont even beat the crao out of this thing. i raced one person. i just drive it to work and back and whatever else i do. i didnt want to beat it up so i could avoid this problem. seems like if you try and not do something it ends up happening. i was prob better off beating the crap out of it.

 
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well you said that it ran low on oil and when you put oil back in, it goes away right. Well that's what messed you up. If it had never ran low on oil, this would have never happened. I've been checking mine everytime I get out of the car after driving somewhere right now. I let it sit for about 20 sec. and then check it before I drive it again. can't be too careful! Oh, if you guys want an oil cooler. you can get one off of a 92 accord. it bolts right on. Thats what I did. I hope everything works out for you dude.

 
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thanks man...yeah well im hoping that i can get away with what happened and hope that it doesnt get bad. i mean i check my oil everyday now since this happened. everything is running great. yeah and it sucks cause i didnt even think that i would be running low on oil like i was. see when this happened i think i caught it before anyhting could happen or get really bad. kinda like i caught it in the nick of time. cause car runs great, prob just covered it up by putting oil in it and will prob pop back up. but im hoping not. i just got a lil careless with it. well i put a qt in that day this happened, and it was still there the next day. so i dont think i have a leak cause i havent seen anyhting at all, anywhere. soo 2 days ago i just put a lil more oil in there to fill it up between the 2 holes in the dip stick. i do not want to fill it up to omuch then ill run into problems doing that. but everything is cool now i hope..thanks for the help.

 
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Get a long screwdriver, (2+ ft long) and put the tip on the valve cover, and then put your ear to the handle. Then do the same on the block, in front of each cylinder. It will help you pin point where the noise is coming from and what is making it.

 
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thanks when i get home from work ill give that a try and see what happens..

 
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Another thing you can do: You can remove the plug on one of the coil packs individually to determine if it is a rod knock. If the knocking goes away when you disconnect it, then it is that cylinder that is knocking.

 
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It has to be the valves. They need to be relashed. Get a service manual and DIY it. It's easy to do if you follow the manual.

This is an easy thing to fix first. I highly doubt its the rods.

 
Rep Power: 360

ok, ill give that a try. thanks