TSI turbo kits?
dude, crew chief thanks for the offer! if i get the parts that need to be replaced and the right tubing for the intercooler maybe i could come pick you up and pay you to help me with the install 
i live maybe like 2hr from you... i still am faced with the stripped oil pressure sending unit threading, i may have to weld in the adapter or something...
i live maybe like 2hr from you... i still am faced with the stripped oil pressure sending unit threading, i may have to weld in the adapter or something... 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 987
Likes: 1
From: Bossier City, LA
Rep Power: 297 
just let me know where your at and I can drive there. pm me with your address and I'll get directions off mapquest. Let me know when your ready. and don't worry about paying me
Thread Starter
Registered!!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 9,070
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From: New Jersey
Rep Power: 360 yeah its been 3 weeks now..and they sent me the wrong directions. so the shop called more-ons up and said they would email and fax them and they never did..i went over there on friday and still nothing, so i called them my self and the guy was a *******..so after him lyn to me saying he did send them whcich he didnt i finally got them sent..now its a matter of time til i get this thing back..good looks crewchief.
i just installed a tsi kit on my 04 civic ex. needed some mods. but, it definately needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing. i ran into a problem myself hopefully someone can help. i installed entire kit except injector interface block because they had sent the wrong one. now i have it installed and wired but my engine is having a fuel fluxuation. it is reving between 1.5 and 3 thousand rpm's when idle. im guessing eigther bad wiring, fuel pump isnt strong enough, or i tapped into fuel line at the wrong point.
as for some other problems mentioned if they havent been answered yet....the turbo manifold does fit, barely: you have to remove the bolt closest to it on the alternator mount......the oil induction line T isnt the right sized thread, you need to tap your original pressure sending unit hole on the pan to a 1/4". any questions ill feel free to answer and i can post pics in as soon as monday. thx.
as for some other problems mentioned if they havent been answered yet....the turbo manifold does fit, barely: you have to remove the bolt closest to it on the alternator mount......the oil induction line T isnt the right sized thread, you need to tap your original pressure sending unit hole on the pan to a 1/4". any questions ill feel free to answer and i can post pics in as soon as monday. thx.
Originally Posted by syopp1
i just installed a tsi kit on my 04 civic ex. needed some mods. but, it definately needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing. i ran into a problem myself hopefully someone can help. i installed entire kit except injector interface block because they had sent the wrong one. now i have it installed and wired but my engine is having a fuel fluxuation. it is reving between 1.5 and 3 thousand rpm's when idle. im guessing eigther bad wiring, fuel pump isnt strong enough, or i tapped into fuel line at the wrong point.
as for some other problems mentioned if they havent been answered yet....the turbo manifold does fit, barely: you have to remove the bolt closest to it on the alternator mount......the oil induction line T isnt the right sized thread, you need to tap your original pressure sending unit hole on the pan to a 1/4". any questions ill feel free to answer and i can post pics in as soon as monday. thx.
as for some other problems mentioned if they havent been answered yet....the turbo manifold does fit, barely: you have to remove the bolt closest to it on the alternator mount......the oil induction line T isnt the right sized thread, you need to tap your original pressure sending unit hole on the pan to a 1/4". any questions ill feel free to answer and i can post pics in as soon as monday. thx.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 987
Likes: 1
From: Bossier City, LA
Rep Power: 297 check your extra injectors for leaking. Take your throttle body off but leave the injector block hooked up. Turn the car to ACC so the fuel injection primes and check to see if fuel is leaking from there. that could be causing your High idle.
well i just checked extra injectors, map connections, throttle and vtech cables....no go. but the reving actually isnt starting until i give it some gas. i checked for any possible leaks in the fuel line...nothing. maybe its my vaccum line. if you could, lemme know where it's supposed to be hooked up to from the BOV. TSI guy said BOV to the injector control module's vaccum hookup, but that sounds kinda funny to me.
well, ive messed with the throttle cable, theres plenty of slack. when i took off the intake tubing from the throttle it seemed closed. do you think it could be the line from my turbo to my boost controller? it doesn't look like its really on there anymore. ill have to remove the manifold to get to it so im gonna wait till tommorrow after work.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 9,070
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From: New Jersey
Rep Power: 360 im hating tsi more and more everyday...lucky i dont fly to cali and killem all. o yeah and you dont have to remove the bolt next to the alt. you just have to shave the manifold down in the corner and it will fit fine.
Last edited by exturbo6; Nov 29, 2004 at 06:03 AM.
Originally Posted by CrewChief
you should have 2 vacuume lines comming from you manifold. one to the BOV and the other to you fuel control unit.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 987
Likes: 1
From: Bossier City, LA
Rep Power: 297 should come from this vacuume line. one to your BOV, one to your fuel comp, and one to a boost gauge if you have one. The boost controller should tie in between the line comming from the turbo to the waist gate. here.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 
we have been installing this kit on a customers car for 2 weeks now. (2002 civic LX) the issues we have had so far:
the manifold required grinding on the drivers side top and side corner. we took about a 1/4 inch out of the cast iron and its still a tight fit.
the alternator and AC heat sheild needed to be bent slightly to get enough room for the wastegate housing.
the AC system had to be removed as there was not enough room for the intercooler or oil cooler with the ac condencer where it was. also, the hotpipe to the intercooler went right where the ac compressor was. theres nothing in the instructions that say this kit is not to be used on a car quiped with AC. there simply is just no way that it can be made to work with AC.
the hotpipe (turbo to intercooler) also had to be trimed in several places to clear the downpipe and still make the angle to meet the u shaped charge pipe to the intercooler.
the oil pressure feed adapter didnt fit between the block and the intake manifold, and adtional 90 degree fitting had to be installed to make it work.
the washer bottle had to be moved up about an inch to make the charge pipes line up enough that they could actualy be conected with the short silicone couplers that they supplyed.
the upper charge pipe needed to be cut and exteded in order to reach the throttle body elbow.
the throttle body elbow needed to be trimed on the throttle body side in order to clear the hood.
the throttle body heater hoses needed to be extended because they did not fit after the injector plate was installed.
annnnnd....... the wireing... the main componenets are prity easy to figure out were they go, but there are no instructions for the wireing. the injector block box installed like a turbo timer so that wasnt too bad. other things like rpm signal was easy to find, but then the box has 4 brown wires and the diagram on the back of the box says to conect them to the injector. but... whitch injector? (s?) there are four wires, so i asuume each brown wire goes to one of the four wires from the two aux injectors.
we got everything installed two nights ago. at first there was a security fault and the car would not turn over. after we fixed that we cranked the motor for a few minuets to get the oil moving around into the new filter and oil cooler and turbo before we tryed to start the car. at that time the turbo timer function of the injector box was working. then we tryed starting the car and the car would start but die right away. we removed the wires that go to the map sensor and reset the ecu and clearded the code and it strated up and idled fine, but when the key was turned off, the car continued to run. and run.. and run. for 10 min it didnt turn off. we messed with the controller for some time changing the turbo timer valvues but it never turned off. we i ended up pulling the ecu fuse in the engine bay.
were still geting a check engine code witch turned out to be a ELD sensor. were replacing that tonight.
iv tryed calline TSI 3 times today. i get a AT&T message that says the number isnt in service. iv emailed them thismorning, no respoce.
as a busnessman, i would never recomend that anyone get this turbo kit. the very first thing im recomending to the customer is to get an e-manage.
there are some legality issues too with this kit... theres nothing that says this cit is CARB aproved, and by installing this kit you are removing your catilitic converter. witch is a prity hefty fine. some shops may not touch this kit for those reasons..
the manifold required grinding on the drivers side top and side corner. we took about a 1/4 inch out of the cast iron and its still a tight fit.
the alternator and AC heat sheild needed to be bent slightly to get enough room for the wastegate housing.
the AC system had to be removed as there was not enough room for the intercooler or oil cooler with the ac condencer where it was. also, the hotpipe to the intercooler went right where the ac compressor was. theres nothing in the instructions that say this kit is not to be used on a car quiped with AC. there simply is just no way that it can be made to work with AC.
the hotpipe (turbo to intercooler) also had to be trimed in several places to clear the downpipe and still make the angle to meet the u shaped charge pipe to the intercooler.
the oil pressure feed adapter didnt fit between the block and the intake manifold, and adtional 90 degree fitting had to be installed to make it work.
the washer bottle had to be moved up about an inch to make the charge pipes line up enough that they could actualy be conected with the short silicone couplers that they supplyed.
the upper charge pipe needed to be cut and exteded in order to reach the throttle body elbow.
the throttle body elbow needed to be trimed on the throttle body side in order to clear the hood.
the throttle body heater hoses needed to be extended because they did not fit after the injector plate was installed.
annnnnd....... the wireing... the main componenets are prity easy to figure out were they go, but there are no instructions for the wireing. the injector block box installed like a turbo timer so that wasnt too bad. other things like rpm signal was easy to find, but then the box has 4 brown wires and the diagram on the back of the box says to conect them to the injector. but... whitch injector? (s?) there are four wires, so i asuume each brown wire goes to one of the four wires from the two aux injectors.
we got everything installed two nights ago. at first there was a security fault and the car would not turn over. after we fixed that we cranked the motor for a few minuets to get the oil moving around into the new filter and oil cooler and turbo before we tryed to start the car. at that time the turbo timer function of the injector box was working. then we tryed starting the car and the car would start but die right away. we removed the wires that go to the map sensor and reset the ecu and clearded the code and it strated up and idled fine, but when the key was turned off, the car continued to run. and run.. and run. for 10 min it didnt turn off. we messed with the controller for some time changing the turbo timer valvues but it never turned off. we i ended up pulling the ecu fuse in the engine bay.
were still geting a check engine code witch turned out to be a ELD sensor. were replacing that tonight.
iv tryed calline TSI 3 times today. i get a AT&T message that says the number isnt in service. iv emailed them thismorning, no respoce.
as a busnessman, i would never recomend that anyone get this turbo kit. the very first thing im recomending to the customer is to get an e-manage.
there are some legality issues too with this kit... theres nothing that says this cit is CARB aproved, and by installing this kit you are removing your catilitic converter. witch is a prity hefty fine. some shops may not touch this kit for those reasons..
Last edited by bimmerjim®; Jan 10, 2005 at 03:30 PM.
Boosting Daily
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Goldsboro, NC
Rep Power: 284 /\/\/\ Took us 2 weeks to install my tsi kit as well. Biggest problems we had were fitment of the charge pipes, so we made our own, then had to shave the manifold, then the biggest problem was getting my lazy azz buddy over to the shop to help.
Registered!!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn Park, Minnesota, US
Rep Power: 0 I had a similar problem with the turbo timer, wasn't nearly as long, like 2-3 minutes. I figured since there is a wire from the icu that connects to the e-brake light, that when the e-brake is down the circuit will be disconnected and the turbo timer will not work. So I put the e-brake down and the engine shut off.
