Rep Power: 318

With my turbo install creeping up on me, I'm trying to get some stuff done in advance. What do you think





I just drilled a 5/8" hole for the fitting and screwed it in very snugly.

I am a little concerned because the fitting is slightly angled downward and I know the return line works only by gravity, but because it's a 1/2" I.D. it shouldn't hinder the operation.

I laid the pan flat to better see the angle:



I plan to use honda-bond around both sides of the fitting to form a seal.

 
Rep Power: 343

tap that ***...i mean pan.

The mex mobile gets some power

 
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niec

 
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looks good bro.........make sure u use some thread sealant on the threads and don't worry about it being angled...........you will be fine

 
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yeah...if you have done a good job tapping the threads.... little JB Weld and it will never leak. i tapped my fitting...got it from Summit...Earl Fitting (-AN) and Jb'd it and it turned out awesome. I also re-sealed the pan with HONDABOND. That stuff is the best!

 
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looks good man. is that an aftermarket oil pan?

 
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I think its a stock EX pan, as i recall the EX's have a cast aluminum pan

 
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yes they do...and they are thick as a mother. Kinda cool to look a when u have it off. hehehe

 
Rep Power: 318

I'm too afraid to take it back out and apply thread sealant.. that mother is in there so tight that I was unable to screw it in anymore with all my force. you think it's ok to apply hondabond around the back of the fitting, inside the oil pan? I figure if it's made to resist oil it should make a fine gasket around the fitting; I just don't want it coming loose in my oil pan. perhaps I can find a brass locknut to screw on the inside.

I'm getting anxious about the install. Here are my current concerns--

1) I don't know anything about how to tap into the fuel lines. good pics are hard to come by.

2) I'm not gonna run my turbo until I have a complete PCV system setup. I've purchased everything I need, but I really haven't had a chance to look at the stock setup other than Majestic Honda's diagrams (it's hard to reach/see in the engine). I don't know how I will go about hooking up the new hose to the crankcase (I don't know how it's currently attached) and I don't know what to use to plug the hole on the intake manifold from the stock setup (all I can picture is a bottle cork wedged in there).

I cant think off anything else off hand, but there's got to be more. this car is my daily driver so i've got to do everything right the first time.

 
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i think if u use hondabond on the threads it will seal them in...wipe off excess inside, let dry and u should be good. oil will creep through the threads. See all the excess hondabond on the oil pan seal? alot on inside. if it's dry i dont think it'll hurt.

 
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OK WELL ur oil pan is not on the car. stop being lazy. take the fitting OUT..
bring the pan to a shop and have a fitting WELDED. PERIOD.
I dont giva **** what ne one says...
it will leak. it will. not today , not tomorrow.
but down the line when its 20 outiside and your freezing ur nuts off... ask ur self if u wanna investigate a leak.
just spend 10 bucks and have it welded.

and if u feel the drivers side of the intake manifold ... near the bottem.. ull feel a HOSE entering the IM .... youll notice this hose its bout 4 inches long and connects to a black box on the back of ur engine.

thats ur PCV valve. its very easy to install a catch can.. also HIGHLY un-needed.

also.. FUEL LINES ARE EASY... thers ONLY ONE.
the other is vaccum line.

 
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oh and DONT USE HONDABOND INSIDE THE OIL PAN!
ull be sorry-

 
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i think...now....don't hold my word but...If the PAN (somebody noticed I wrote the wrong word) is tapped correctly and he threads are clean and tight it won't leak. JB weld the threads when u tighten the fitting for the last time. Welding could also crack between the bare metal and weld and leak also. just do a quality job and i don't think you'll have to worry.

 
Rep Power: 305

The pan is NOT tapped. You need to run a NPT tap inside the pan. You will need at least three threads to have any sort of seal. Plus nothing can protrude inside the pan. That is why a bung is better, no entry inside the oil pan.

But hey, if you are not worried about vibtration causing it to loosen, then leak, save the small amount of money now, only to pay later.

While you are at it, add a fitting near the drain plug to add an oil temp sender later, you can always plug it with a plug, but easily add the temp sender later.

 
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FYI...You may have a problem with the location of the fitting. The way that you have it now...the drain line will have to go around the downpipe and then attach. It could lead to some oil gathering in the line. I used to have mine in that area, but now mine is in the shallow part of the pan with a direct straight drop from the turbo to the fitting.

 
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Ok Mex do what you want to do...don't take my advice or take it. I know about metal and threads. My father is a mechanical engineer and I grew up in a house with Mills, Lathes, surface grinders, End Mill etc......yes I can run those machines too. Hell I could make all my own **** if had them but they are in Florida. I HIGHLY doubt that the oil pan is going to vibrate so radically that the fitting is going to unscrew itself but whatever....weld it it could crack, thread it and it may leak. The best way and only way to have a leakless connection is to have a pan with a fitting/bung cast directly into the side.

 
Rep Power: 318

why is it that people say aluminum [oil pans] can't be welded?

 
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Because they are uninformed. Aluminum is quite simple to weld using GTAW or GMAW.

 
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honda bond=12 bucks--temporary--migh come off and you have to take out all the **** again...
welding labor=30--permanent--will never leak, less things to worry about, like detonation

your choice... just my .05

 
Rep Power: 327

one down side to welding aluminum pans is that lots of times a simple weld turns into weld here....cracks next to weld....weld crack up........cracks next to weld and so on and so on. But welding is by far a better way to go!

 
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Thats because they cant weld.

 
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Hondabond used correctly will be effective.