Alcohol thread: UPDATED
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From: Arizona
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Alcohol thread: UPDATED
I bought Isoprpyl as stafford reccommended. Cranked it up to 9.5 pounds and the car was REDICULOUSLY fast. But, at the top of third, it felt like I slammed the brakes.... So i let off, and the car was almost dead, backfired twice (really loud) and wouldn't idle right at all. It was fluctuating from 500rpms to 650 (hks turbo timer). I shut the car off for 15 minutes after I had pulled over. Started it up, ran fine. Drove it home. Took my mom's car out and bought a new set of Denso Ik20s. Went to go inspect everything, the old plugs were loose! and the 2 bolts that hold my rear section off had been blown back and the rear section was rattling, I had to replace the back two bolts.
I'm assuming the alcohol I bought caused this misfire. IT was running perfect at 7.5psi. The one time I had it at 9.5 it did that.
Also, the isopropyl was 70/30 (30% water). Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks guys. If this thread get's good I'll make it a sticky for a while.
**UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:**
Diagnosed the car. Turns out, it wasn't due to the isopropyl mixture, it was because of my lack of isopropyl. The switch that SF sent me stopped working while I was at 9.5psi!!!! My car severley misfired and wouldn't idle, but after a 15 minute break for the engine without running, she started back up. I bypassed the switch while the car was off and tapped the 2 leads together, electronics are fine. The switch just doesn't turn the pump on anymore. I guess the head gasket riceburner found is living up to it's word!
New question, where the hell can I find a new switch that would work? SF won't answer the phone and their voicemail is full...
I'm assuming the alcohol I bought caused this misfire. IT was running perfect at 7.5psi. The one time I had it at 9.5 it did that.
Also, the isopropyl was 70/30 (30% water). Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks guys. If this thread get's good I'll make it a sticky for a while.
**UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:**
Diagnosed the car. Turns out, it wasn't due to the isopropyl mixture, it was because of my lack of isopropyl. The switch that SF sent me stopped working while I was at 9.5psi!!!! My car severley misfired and wouldn't idle, but after a 15 minute break for the engine without running, she started back up. I bypassed the switch while the car was off and tapped the 2 leads together, electronics are fine. The switch just doesn't turn the pump on anymore. I guess the head gasket riceburner found is living up to it's word!
New question, where the hell can I find a new switch that would work? SF won't answer the phone and their voicemail is full...
Last edited by MadWheel; May 13, 2004 at 12:52 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Originally posted by RiceBuRNeR
try using denatured alcohol, it has a different octane rating.
try using denatured alcohol, it has a different octane rating.
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From: Woostah
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Check that HG..... Knock at 10 pounds is a very bad thing... Especially when the car wouldn't run.... At least read the plugs....
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 plugs are fine, i replaced them. car has been daily driven since the incident, and i raced the car at import wars 3 times after the alcy incident occured. no signs of any hg failure and i beat the hell out of it today at 7 pounds.
Skyline R33
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Houston, TX
Rep Power: 0 Re: Alcohol thread: UPDATED
Originally posted by MadWheel
I bought Isoprpyl as stafford reccommended. Cranked it up to 9.5 pounds and the car was REDICULOUSLY fast. But, at the top of third, it felt like I slammed the brakes.... So i let off, and the car was almost dead, backfired twice (really loud) and wouldn't idle right at all. It was fluctuating from 500rpms to 650 (hks turbo timer). I shut the car off for 15 minutes after I had pulled over. Started it up, ran fine. Drove it home. Took my mom's car out and bought a new set of Denso Ik20s. Went to go inspect everything, the old plugs were loose! and the 2 bolts that hold my rear section off had been blown back and the rear section was rattling, I had to replace the back two bolts.
I'm assuming the alcohol I bought caused this misfire. IT was running perfect at 7.5psi. The one time I had it at 9.5 it did that.
Also, the isopropyl was 70/30 (30% water). Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks guys. If this thread get's good I'll make it a sticky for a while.
**UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:**
Diagnosed the car. Turns out, it wasn't due to the isopropyl mixture, it was because of my lack of isopropyl. The switch that SF sent me stopped working while I was at 9.5psi!!!! My car severley misfired and wouldn't idle, but after a 15 minute break for the engine without running, she started back up. I bypassed the switch while the car was off and tapped the 2 leads together, electronics are fine. The switch just doesn't turn the pump on anymore. I guess the head gasket riceburner found is living up to it's word!
New question, where the hell can I find a new switch that would work? SF won't answer the phone and their voicemail is full...
I bought Isoprpyl as stafford reccommended. Cranked it up to 9.5 pounds and the car was REDICULOUSLY fast. But, at the top of third, it felt like I slammed the brakes.... So i let off, and the car was almost dead, backfired twice (really loud) and wouldn't idle right at all. It was fluctuating from 500rpms to 650 (hks turbo timer). I shut the car off for 15 minutes after I had pulled over. Started it up, ran fine. Drove it home. Took my mom's car out and bought a new set of Denso Ik20s. Went to go inspect everything, the old plugs were loose! and the 2 bolts that hold my rear section off had been blown back and the rear section was rattling, I had to replace the back two bolts.
I'm assuming the alcohol I bought caused this misfire. IT was running perfect at 7.5psi. The one time I had it at 9.5 it did that.
Also, the isopropyl was 70/30 (30% water). Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks guys. If this thread get's good I'll make it a sticky for a while.
**UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:**
Diagnosed the car. Turns out, it wasn't due to the isopropyl mixture, it was because of my lack of isopropyl. The switch that SF sent me stopped working while I was at 9.5psi!!!! My car severley misfired and wouldn't idle, but after a 15 minute break for the engine without running, she started back up. I bypassed the switch while the car was off and tapped the 2 leads together, electronics are fine. The switch just doesn't turn the pump on anymore. I guess the head gasket riceburner found is living up to it's word!
New question, where the hell can I find a new switch that would work? SF won't answer the phone and their voicemail is full...
I have been telling eveyone that pure methanol is the way to go. My dyno with alch was 186 and lean and power curve was chopy. With meth I am running a now solid 230hp at 10psi.
To all with turbo... Use only pure Methanol race fuel from a track.
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Nice find. I ended up buying a Nos version though, adjustable from 4 to 7psi. Looks similar to those though.
Skyline R33
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From: Houston, TX
Rep Power: 0 This is whay I buy it is VP Racing fuel.
Methanol
M-1 Racing Methanol has a 99.95% minimum purity - the highest purity available in the U.S. With M-1, engines run cooler and are less subject to corrosion. VP uses only lined drums which prohibit rust, corrosion and metal deposits that can contaminate fuel delivery systems. Recommended for all methanol-legal racing applications.
Methanol
M-1 Racing Methanol has a 99.95% minimum purity - the highest purity available in the U.S. With M-1, engines run cooler and are less subject to corrosion. VP uses only lined drums which prohibit rust, corrosion and metal deposits that can contaminate fuel delivery systems. Recommended for all methanol-legal racing applications.
Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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From: Boston, MA
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by guns
This is whay I buy it is VP Racing fuel.
Methanol
M-1 Racing Methanol has a 99.95% minimum purity - the highest purity available in the U.S. With M-1, engines run cooler and are less subject to corrosion. VP uses only lined drums which prohibit rust, corrosion and metal deposits that can contaminate fuel delivery systems. Recommended for all methanol-legal racing applications.
This is whay I buy it is VP Racing fuel.
Methanol
M-1 Racing Methanol has a 99.95% minimum purity - the highest purity available in the U.S. With M-1, engines run cooler and are less subject to corrosion. VP uses only lined drums which prohibit rust, corrosion and metal deposits that can contaminate fuel delivery systems. Recommended for all methanol-legal racing applications.
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Also to add to this thread now... So we can clarify this for soon to be boost people as well...
For those running either isopropyl, methenol, or anything else...
List your additive, and what kind of spark plugs you are using, and what range if applicable. For those who do some heavy tuning, anyone think of shortening the gap of the spark plugs a lil to help combustion? If the switch to methanol doesn't work for me, I'll be locating the jet before my BOV to help atomization, if that doesn't work I'll go to some hotter plugs...
For those running either isopropyl, methenol, or anything else...
List your additive, and what kind of spark plugs you are using, and what range if applicable. For those who do some heavy tuning, anyone think of shortening the gap of the spark plugs a lil to help combustion? If the switch to methanol doesn't work for me, I'll be locating the jet before my BOV to help atomization, if that doesn't work I'll go to some hotter plugs...
Skyline R33
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From: Houston, TX
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
Also to add to this thread now... So we can clarify this for soon to be boost people as well...
For those running either isopropyl, methenol, or anything else...
List your additive, and what kind of spark plugs you are using, and what range if applicable. For those who do some heavy tuning, anyone think of shortening the gap of the spark plugs a lil to help combustion? If the switch to methanol doesn't work for me, I'll be locating the jet before my BOV to help atomization, if that doesn't work I'll go to some hotter plugs...
For those running either isopropyl, methenol, or anything else...
List your additive, and what kind of spark plugs you are using, and what range if applicable. For those who do some heavy tuning, anyone think of shortening the gap of the spark plugs a lil to help combustion? If the switch to methanol doesn't work for me, I'll be locating the jet before my BOV to help atomization, if that doesn't work I'll go to some hotter plugs...
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 If you do more research you'll find out that if you aren't burning all of the fuel you are dumping in, you are running too cold of a spark plug. The idea is to burn the fuel but without detonation. If we retard our ignition timing and went with either stock plug degree, or an Ik20 it should still be ok. But as said before this is heavily influenced by tuning. Different combinations will result.
Skyline R33
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From: Houston, TX
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
If you do more research you'll find out that if you aren't burning all of the fuel you are dumping in, you are running too cold of a spark plug. The idea is to burn the fuel but without detonation. If we retard our ignition timing and went with either stock plug degree, or an Ik20 it should still be ok. But as said before this is heavily influenced by tuning. Different combinations will result.
But, you are right. My VAFC2 dies not allow for retarding the timing. I am going to look into the Emanage and a thinker head gasket to lower the compression.
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 I know the 231whp at 10psi is awesome. But you were using methanol, which burns a little better than water/rubbing alcohol. With cold cold plugs, it's very difficult to burn the water injection system, on top of an already running rich fuel setup.
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Originally Posted by guns
I think with 231whp at 10psi is good enough for me, even if I am running to cold of a plug.
But, you are right. My VAFC2 dies not allow for retarding the timing. I am going to look into the Emanage and a thinker head gasket to lower the compression.
But, you are right. My VAFC2 dies not allow for retarding the timing. I am going to look into the Emanage and a thinker head gasket to lower the compression.
Not too revive an old thread, but I think your car handled all that fuel because of the plugs. I did some more looking into... My IK20s are great and are stock gapped, but your IK24s are gapped to .032 instead of the stock .044. That closer gap allows you to burn better, but in the same result, have somewhat of a rougher idle and a sacraficed fuel economy.
I may switch to IK22s which are alse gapped the same as the 24s, but I'm ordering methanol today and I'll see how that works out first.
I bought a WW CF Evo hood and some drag radials so hopfully I can put down some good times this friday.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Originally Posted by guns
That sounds bad....
I have been telling eveyone that pure methanol is the way to go. My dyno with alch was 186 and lean and power curve was chopy. With meth I am running a now solid 230hp at 10psi.
To all with turbo... Use only pure Methanol race fuel from a track.
I have been telling eveyone that pure methanol is the way to go. My dyno with alch was 186 and lean and power curve was chopy. With meth I am running a now solid 230hp at 10psi.
To all with turbo... Use only pure Methanol race fuel from a track.
Wrong. Check out aquamist's website for the proper ratio of alcohol to water - they recommend at MOST a 50/50 mix...
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/faq/text-a.html#turbo
Scroll down to where it talks about alcohol injection.....Adding MORE alcohol isn't going to help, but in fact HINDER the cooling effect to the cylinder.
10. What is the maximum alcohol/ water ratio I should use?
No more than 50%, otherwise you will increase the cylinder temperature rather than reducing it. Beyond that ratio, onset of detonation is more likely. Methanol freezes at -96 deg. C, 50% mixture will stop the mixture from freezing at around -40 deg.C.
No more than 50%, otherwise you will increase the cylinder temperature rather than reducing it. Beyond that ratio, onset of detonation is more likely. Methanol freezes at -96 deg. C, 50% mixture will stop the mixture from freezing at around -40 deg.C.
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Quoted from the aqua mist site...
"9. Why is Methanol better?
Methanol itself has a octane number of 113. Not only does it improve your fuel quality, it will also give you a better intercooling effect in the inlet tract. "
They also say not to use anything more concentrated than 50% methanol, because it will result in an increase in temperature.
I just bought a 5 gallon drum of pure methanol from Worldwide Racing Fuels online. Will be here thursday. Hopfully my plugs can burn up all this fuel. Going to the track this friday.
"9. Why is Methanol better?
Methanol itself has a octane number of 113. Not only does it improve your fuel quality, it will also give you a better intercooling effect in the inlet tract. "
They also say not to use anything more concentrated than 50% methanol, because it will result in an increase in temperature.
I just bought a 5 gallon drum of pure methanol from Worldwide Racing Fuels online. Will be here thursday. Hopfully my plugs can burn up all this fuel. Going to the track this friday.
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 oops i just noticed that opto said the same thing lol, after I saw his link i thought that box was part of his sig... but yeah props to opto for that link, thanks man.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
oops i just noticed that opto said the same thing lol, after I saw his link i thought that box was part of his sig... but yeah props to opto for that link, thanks man.
