leaning towards a swap...
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leaning towards a swap...
If changing my thermostat doesn't fix my heat issue, I'm gonna toss the engine and sell the kit.
I found a local K20, for way less than $1k. Came out of an SI with 32 miles on it. Totaled car. Some small external damage to the engine but only needs less than 500 in repairs.
I may sell my turbo setup (complete) and do a swap and turbo that...
Either that or rebuild the D17, what do you guys suggest?
I found a local K20, for way less than $1k. Came out of an SI with 32 miles on it. Totaled car. Some small external damage to the engine but only needs less than 500 in repairs.
I may sell my turbo setup (complete) and do a swap and turbo that...
Either that or rebuild the D17, what do you guys suggest?
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i think you know what my suggestion would be, but my opinion is kinda bias..
Like i've said before, a non turbo motor will aways be more reliable then a turbo'd non-turbo motor. I've seen it happen way to many times, even people who don't keep jacking the boost up, if the motor isn't built right it goes to hell.
no offense to anyone is meant, but it seems that turbos on this forum have become the new nitrous. Everyone slaps them on and just keeps pushing their motors, if i were to turbo my car (which i never will) the first thing i'd do is build up the block. 10psi sure seems well and good for the first month or 2, but after a while....well you know.

Like i've said before, a non turbo motor will aways be more reliable then a turbo'd non-turbo motor. I've seen it happen way to many times, even people who don't keep jacking the boost up, if the motor isn't built right it goes to hell.
no offense to anyone is meant, but it seems that turbos on this forum have become the new nitrous. Everyone slaps them on and just keeps pushing their motors, if i were to turbo my car (which i never will) the first thing i'd do is build up the block. 10psi sure seems well and good for the first month or 2, but after a while....well you know.
Last edited by Hawk; Mar 18, 2004 at 01:09 PM.
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its not like i had 6,480 hours into my car, actual labor time was like 25-30. I didn't have 8 hours a day to work on it, i had 2 days a week. 4 hours a day, and there was a 6 month time period where nuthing was done
damn summer and its riding weather!
damn summer and its riding weather!
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Does the motor include the drivetrain (or at least transmission)?
You said you don't have time to change a head gasket but you do have time to swap a motor???
Taking the cheapest way out isn't always the best bet.... If you want to make serious power, take the time to build the motor that can handle it... whether a D17 or K20.... Either way you'll be happy if you build it right... Plan ahead... You can add a turbo to either motor, but neither one is made from the factory to handle high boost levels, so you will end up having issues (either headgasket or ring blowby)
Me? take the money and put it into your current motor THE RIGHT WAY and find a shop that can tune the setup the right way.... The car will be down a few months at the most, but a year from now you will have a motor that is bulletproof... I thought you had another project car you could drive in the mean time...
Just my ~$0.015....
You said you don't have time to change a head gasket but you do have time to swap a motor???
Taking the cheapest way out isn't always the best bet.... If you want to make serious power, take the time to build the motor that can handle it... whether a D17 or K20.... Either way you'll be happy if you build it right... Plan ahead... You can add a turbo to either motor, but neither one is made from the factory to handle high boost levels, so you will end up having issues (either headgasket or ring blowby)
Me? take the money and put it into your current motor THE RIGHT WAY and find a shop that can tune the setup the right way.... The car will be down a few months at the most, but a year from now you will have a motor that is bulletproof... I thought you had another project car you could drive in the mean time...
Just my ~$0.015....
Thread Starter
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I have a 95 NT eclipse that needs a new engine lol...
Maybe I should go to a junk yard and buy one for that, and drive that until I can get my D17 back from being built.
Maybe I should go to a junk yard and buy one for that, and drive that until I can get my D17 back from being built.
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that's what it's looking like, u think i should change the pistons and rods while it's all apart? if so i'll get my eclipse running first then worry about the civ
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well i CAN have a backup car if i chose to replace that engine this weekend...
while the car is apart u think im better off just building my beast?
just seeing if i should, and with rods, pistons, hg, arp studs and block gaurd, u think 12psi daily driven is fine?
while the car is apart u think im better off just building my beast?
just seeing if i should, and with rods, pistons, hg, arp studs and block gaurd, u think 12psi daily driven is fine?
I am about to do a head swap and replace my head gasket w/ oem leakless. I have been told all you do is unbolt the intake manifold and exhaust manifold unbolt all the crap on top and do the head swap replace the gasket. I know there is an *** load of small things. But it is not pulling the motor type of deal. Dh-racing is also telling me to put in a block guard while I have the head off.
You could do just the head gasket, block guard and torque down the head bolts a little more. Then when or if when you blow something then take the time for a swap. This will give you time to save money or work on your other car..
You could do just the head gasket, block guard and torque down the head bolts a little more. Then when or if when you blow something then take the time for a swap. This will give you time to save money or work on your other car..
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Originally posted by OsOBooSTeD
how hard is a block guard? just place it in??????????????
how hard is a block guard? just place it in??????????????
To answer your q though... They suggest welding, but you can use the red lock-tite stuff...
They tell you on the site.. plus it's only $75
Originally posted by MadWheel
oso... I suggest checking out the KMS site. DH racing reccommends them for the gaurd.
To answer your q though... They suggest welding, but you can use the red lock-tite stuff...
They tell you on the site.. plus it's only $75
oso... I suggest checking out the KMS site. DH racing reccommends them for the gaurd.
To answer your q though... They suggest welding, but you can use the red lock-tite stuff...
They tell you on the site.. plus it's only $75
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awesome thanks bro, u guys helped me out a lot...
where can i find arpm studs though? no one has them for the d17
where can i find arpm studs though? no one has them for the d17
Originally posted by guns
I ordered one and get it in two days from KMS. I am just waiting on DH for the head.. I will let you know how hard it is to do the swap...block guard and new gasket..
I ordered one and get it in two days from KMS. I am just waiting on DH for the head.. I will let you know how hard it is to do the swap...block guard and new gasket..
Originally posted by MadWheel
awesome thanks bro, u guys helped me out a lot...
where can i find arpm studs though? no one has them for the d17
awesome thanks bro, u guys helped me out a lot...
where can i find arpm studs though? no one has them for the d17
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OK... getting my 95 eclipse fixed... gonna drive that, and then build my engine for the next month and a half to get it running in time for Import Wars....
12s here I come!
12s here I come!
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