Rep Power: 585

ill have to see what i did with my time slip, but for a person that has been to the track once in his life bc he never had a car worth taking, its crappy compared to urs and CATS but then again i have roughly the same MPH, other than that til i find it check the timeslip database i think i put all the numbers off it in there

 
Rep Power: 585

future.....did u put ur kit on urself, if so, also u didnt do a return fuel system nor did u use the emanage, nor did u take the motor apart and put pistons in, all in all what im getting at is if u put urs on, what ill do is go through my bill, and take out all the labor, and all the parts that u dont have, and then we will see what my "turbo kit" cost, somewhere between a 1/4 and a 1/3 of my bill was probly labor

 
Rep Power: 0

cant punish me cause i know how to do things myself.. shops here charge anywhere from $300-500 for turbo install.. so even if i payed for it it was nowhere near what youve payed out for that much power... not hating/flaming.. just saying i feel like you overpayed/... built mootot and all you should have more power.. return fuel is NOT expensive.. its not even hard.. i just wanna do it without running it back, a challange to mysfel... and emanage i will install myself and have a friend tune.. sometimes when you are poor you just gotta do **** yourself and know people ...

 
Rep Power: 0

you 2 take it too personal..

future: if you think he wasted money, well.. just laught at him because yo got a cheaper kit.

c2: i get ur point, if you have the money then thats all that matters, and btw.. his dyno is the highest i have seen on a D17, so he got my respect.

 
Rep Power: 0

the fuel system cybernation uses on the rsx involves a return line...

 
Rep Power: 375

^^^^^^^^Since when?? They use it on the EP3 too and I have not seen any return fuel lines.

 
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he has the most power cause there is no dyno foor Sf kit on 11psi.. Sf is only 30hp behind hiom on 5psi with stock exhaust and plugs with no tuning.. no upgrades in kit...

 
Rep Power: 585

im not punishing u, im saying if i did all this myself, then the power to $ spent ratio would be fantastic, im not one to let some kids hack away at a brand new car, and do some jank *** job, i like warranties and thats what i got, i like reliability, i got that bc i dont have to pay to have it fixed/tuned, ever hear "u get what u pay for" i did, something breaks, fixed=warranty part fails=warranty, another thing, u people have a whole point of higher compression, even on the lx models, im in the 7.?:1, u people are like 8.8 and up :1, it takes alot more boost on mine to get the same results i think. so theortically SF should be at nearly 245-250 WHP at 11 PSI according to ur 10hp to 1psi. the only 185whp at 5 lbs ive seen is the HP turbo kid

 
Rep Power: 585

where is urs, do me a favor on this one, try it, MAKE RC ENGINEERING 440cc INJECTORS FIT in the stock injectors place, run the lines and tune it and tell me how long it takes, fittings are sometimes 20-30 bux a piece, welding the rail, extending it out so the injectors fit, which this requires modifications to the TPS so that it fits in the same spot. NO ONE HAS bigger injectors on here except in their intake pipe, and thats just one or two additional injectors

BOOSTED2K2, was urs as easy as im being told

 
Rep Power: 585

3680 for the turbo "kit" meaning all the things needed not including boost controller, new oil, filter, and radiator fan, needed that bc the turbo and the manifold together interfered.

fuel system parts 750 labor 680

engine build= 800 swap....850 to build.....bout 500 for gasket kit, bearings, head bolts.

 
Rep Power: 0

I got a chance to ride in and drive C2's car this past weekend and I must say it has some ***** for a 2k1. It pulls pretty hard, to bad it was raining out, we couldnt get traction in 1,2 or 3rd. I would actually like to see yo come up to the track with us this spring so we can see what numbers you pull. Maybe you'll let me run it a couple times.
I'll be faster though!!!!!! Just joking. Nice work!

 
Rep Power: 585

bring on spring i wanna go and im ready, saturday was dry

 
Rep Power: 0

A return fuel system isn't that cheap. If anybody says that they can get it done cheap, then they are using some low quality parts. The parts that make a return system (fitting, lines, and fpr), are expensive. About $400 not even including a pump or injectors. My labor was only $85 though. But I think they gave me a break because I had a lot done. I did all the in-tank work on my car though, and there is a bigger hassle in there then there is for the rest of the return system. You literally have to take the unit apart and remove half of the parts. Larger fuel pumps don't just fit in there. You have to replace the lines in the tank, and close off the FPR. Then you have to make sure that it will hold the fuel pressure. As C2i said, the injectors are another thing. There isn't one single RC injector (or many manufacturer's injectors, because I called around) that will fit. So you have to do all that modification. All in all, in the end, you have complete control over your fuel system, not a static unit that offers no fine adjustment. You also end up with a very easy way to troubleshoot fuel system issues without even stepping out of the driver's seat.

 
Rep Power: 585

 
Rep Power: 0

IF i wanted areturn system i could do it for cheap.. i just dont wanna do something to the car to change my objective... 12.5 with stock fuel system whisch is supposedly a "problem".. and stock bottom end... stock intake mani..stock t.b.. and zex makes inj. that go stright in...

 
Rep Power: 585

12.5 what, 1/4 mile?......cheap, think what u want, but by the time u buy all the parts, and add up the labor that YOU put in, it would have been at least 500 bucks if not more, boosted and i both have blown fuel lines off in the tank, bc the pressure was high, so when u up ur pressure on this stock system of urs and u berak something..........

 
Rep Power: 585

didnt see them on the site nor did i see them at venom performance either

 
Rep Power: 0

with slicks i would be in the low 13s already... with ported head, block gaurd, and some other "special" things im gonna do, i will see 12.7 or so... then i just need to iron out the bugs.... i should be at a 1.9 60' time.. with 13.4 or so right now... and thats without calculating for how much faster the car is with the DH pulley i put on since last time at the track.... this car SERIOUSLY doesnt EVER go below 7psi when im on it... BEAUTIFULL!... i recomend it to you and boosted... but anyways... my goal is MORE than possible... cat already ran a 1/8th mile time that calculated out to be a 12.7 in the 1/4.... on STREET tires.. with his OLD setup, same as i have now..(he had ported head).. so with better tires, and a few more mods than him.. i think a 12.5 will happen... i just think everyone downs on our cars too much... i appreciate you and boosted spending all this money and trying things out so people know.. i just wanna do the same catalyst and DHracing wanna do, show everyone how far the stock fuel and bottom end can take us... even with a plastic intake mani and TINY throttle body... LOL... if you can run 11s in a crx HF with stock fuel lines.. im sure you can in a 7thgen... LOL.. HF makes like 65 hp stock.... dave;s makes around 320 at the WHEELS with a B16 stroked to 2.1L.. running pump gas through 310's and stock fuel lines, bigger pump... people doubt hondas TOOOO much... especially the newer ones... our stock injectors can flow enough to support 300hp with the correct maping and tuning.. its all in what you do to em....

 
Rep Power: 585

i dont doubt u, and or any of the others, what i dont like is someone telling me i spent to much money, my shop should be able to tune within one day, one also has to look at this very one concept of my car, everything on it is just about custom made, the manifold was bought of course and so was the turbo, the pistons were made from a sample i sent, took six months, dont ask why to me, ask JE, the rods were the same senario, im sure u could run the same if not lower than ur 13.7 or cats 13.6 on slicks, my time currently was so slow based on the fact that i dont get traction in the 1-3 gears, its a disappointment and not at the same time, dissappointing bc of the low time but good bc the fact that i can spin 1-3 gears, all in all i believe in what ur car can do, people have their differences in choices, for me there are three reasons i dont particularly like SF kit, 1. the intercooler....the air goes in one side and has to come back out the same side, restrictive air flow IMO, but then again i have never seen it. 2. all the welding on all the piping, sand it down smooth it out. 3. i dont like alchy injection, one shouldnt have to rely solely on that. i also dont like going into things blind, SF and DHracing appeared out of no where, they may be good for all i know, but when i asked my shop owner if he ever heard of them, no, which doesnt mean anything in the big picture, but for someone who has been around for 10+ years, and has hit the periodical newstands on the front cover means something to me, i dont doubt DH records but just the fact that i have never heard of it makes me want to stick with things i know and have seen in numerous numbers

 
Rep Power: 0

OK back to topic when sleeving you have to overbore the cylinder walls to get the sleeve in right? So in the process of sleeving your doing a bit of boring? For turbo on a 7thgen what is better dry or wet sleeves?

 
Rep Power: 0

both sf and dh have had cars on the covers ... sf had a 5thgen on a cover well over a year or two ago, they did work for jesse james on custom sheetmetal for a bike for the discovery channel show... and maybe you havent heard of dave because hes in cali, and not oo many racers running 9s give up the info that they actually have someone else build thier motors... esi b. used daves products to hit low 11's ALL MOTOR in a 1.5L non-vtec crx before he switched to a new engine setup to hit low 10s, 9s.... both are relatively famous and can offer ENDLESS people that were past customers to back up there rep... which is what got me a big DH fan over 4 years ago when i first emailed them... i asked about quality and they emailed me over 10 random people to email and ask, as well as emailing me 5 or so dyno charts proving things, also offering videos... dave is quality.. he didnt come out of nowhere, and it only appears so who dont know who he is because he just now makes D17 parts, and is trying to break into the market through our site... i fully support ANY shop doing quality work... im sure your local shop is RAW, and it IS nice to have a local place to go to when stuff goes wrong... i dont worry about that cause i dont let anyone but me touch my car... EVER.. dave can build my motor, SF can build my turbo, but NOONE but me can install things, that way im able to fix on a saturday night at 3am at the street races if something goes wrong... this is the most reliable car ive had so far.. and the combination re-worked FMU and inline fuel pump works well with stock injectors... the alcohol is only for higher boost.. so noone needs to use race gas.. its a chance to in essence run race gas whenver you want.. with the methanol kicking in im around 116 octane... SOOO safe.. i will never remove that part of the kit, i have fallen in love with the safety and power it makes... which is why companies like aquamist produce similar kits as well as jackson racing... its a VERY reliable way to make things just that one level safer... i LOVE your kit.. its VERY clean.. i just wish you wouldnt down on SF and DH so bad, when i doubt youve ever seen their products in person.. also, the reason the welds arent sanded down is to retain strength... when you sand welds you take away the structural support of the weld itself... btw.. i have NO traction in 1-3 either... LOL.. it sux... thats why im trying to get custom traction bars made to help with all our launching troubles.. im also getting custom axles done, for when the low 12s (AKA breakage country) comes around... im here to help everyone just like you....

 
Rep Power: 585

cool, send me some stuff (email)

 
Rep Power: 585

u dont have to overbore, u can do pretty much whatever u want, and to my knowledge ive never heard of wet or dry sleeves, theres a wet and dry N20, the only types of sleeves ive heard of is open deck and closed deck, t-sleeves, and such, if have a link to some wet and dry sleeves let me see, maybe its something ive never heard of

 
Rep Power: 375

About your wheel hop problem, have you thought about getting an engine torque dampner?

 
Rep Power: 585

who are u talkin to

 
Rep Power: 375

LOL I was talking to Todd, but I assume you are having wheel hop too.

 
Rep Power: 585

they just spin there aint no hopping

 
Rep Power: 0

no hopin here.. just straight spin spin spin.... you need to email dh for the emails... that was over 4 years ago, so i obviously dont have them still.... hit em up.... they have LOTS of happy customers...

 
Rep Power: 0

Open deck or closed deck are the only way you can sleeve ur block. As far as wet and dry, I have no idea what you're talking about. As far as bore, the only reason people bore the cylinder walls is for larger sized pistons. In that case you cant go too large of a bore because our cylinders are so small and weak anyway. You are better off keeping stock bore and piston size or going with a slightly larger bore.

 
Rep Power: 0

But when putting in sleeves into the cylinder wall don't they consume some space in the wall itself? Wouldn't pistons rings rub against the sleeve?