Making turbo 2k1s safe
Making turbo 2k1s safe
I just wanted to pass on the point that tuning your car is extremely important. I have not seen anyone post on this, but dynos ARE NOT just for getting hp/trq numbers.
With all the new civics throwing on turbo chargers, you must check a lot of things to make sure the engine isnt going beyond the safe threshold.
Things y'all might wanna consider is:
Your exhaust gas temperature
Your a/f. You can tune the a/f off the stock o2 sensor, but those stock ones suck horribly. Find a tuning shop with a wideband o2.
A good knock sensor.
Intake manifold threshold (hey plastic is good at keeping down temperatures, but is it gonna explode?)
Your gaskets/seals
Your gearbox.
Guages to get:
EGT guage - very important
Boost guage
Oil Temperature guage
Things to stay away from:
Manual Boost Controllers. They spike a lot. You can hit full boost at only part throttle and cause engine meltdown. IMO They suck. If you NEED to get an MBC, go for a dual stage one.
Same deal with crappy EBCs i think also.--^
Crappy Fuel: This one is self explanitory. If you have to get crappy fuel, dump in a little bit of toluene to raise the octane rating.
If anyone wants to add something you might wanna get or avoid with a turbo car, feel free to post.
With all the new civics throwing on turbo chargers, you must check a lot of things to make sure the engine isnt going beyond the safe threshold.
Things y'all might wanna consider is:
Your exhaust gas temperature
Your a/f. You can tune the a/f off the stock o2 sensor, but those stock ones suck horribly. Find a tuning shop with a wideband o2.
A good knock sensor.
Intake manifold threshold (hey plastic is good at keeping down temperatures, but is it gonna explode?)
Your gaskets/seals
Your gearbox.
Guages to get:
EGT guage - very important
Boost guage
Oil Temperature guage
Things to stay away from:
Manual Boost Controllers. They spike a lot. You can hit full boost at only part throttle and cause engine meltdown. IMO They suck. If you NEED to get an MBC, go for a dual stage one.
Same deal with crappy EBCs i think also.--^
Crappy Fuel: This one is self explanitory. If you have to get crappy fuel, dump in a little bit of toluene to raise the octane rating.
If anyone wants to add something you might wanna get or avoid with a turbo car, feel free to post.
Last edited by my04wrx; Oct 8, 2003 at 03:06 PM.
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the autometer one would be useless, the one like zinkyroo would be of some use, but those lil green and yellow and red blinking lines tell u nothing
all u need is a the S-AFC II ... it has knock sensor built in, controlls air and fuel.... and a few other features i cant think of...
boost controller... eletronic prefered.
other then that you need a Boost Gauge...
AND oil pressure gauge...
and well thats about it .imo.
boost controller... eletronic prefered.
other then that you need a Boost Gauge...
AND oil pressure gauge...
and well thats about it .imo.
Originally posted by kjgracing
what about a blockguard to lower the compression? Oh yeah and have it
welded on too.
what about a blockguard to lower the compression? Oh yeah and have it
welded on too.
it is recommended for higher boost aplications .. uhm say 10psi and up... but is good ne any FI setup.
i dont know what parts come sent with these turbo kits, but usually with kits its just the barebones parts to get the turbo running. the parts one needs to have any sort of reliability arent usually included
Originally posted by OsOBooSTeD
all u need is a the S-AFC II ... it has knock sensor built in, controlls air and fuel.... and a few other features i cant think of...
boost controller... eletronic prefered.
other then that you need a Boost Gauge...
AND oil pressure gauge...
and well thats about it .imo.
all u need is a the S-AFC II ... it has knock sensor built in, controlls air and fuel.... and a few other features i cant think of...
boost controller... eletronic prefered.
other then that you need a Boost Gauge...
AND oil pressure gauge...
and well thats about it .imo.
Originally posted by zinkyroo
The SAFC II reads the A/F ratio off of the stock o2 sensors, just like autometers guages, thuse making it just as useless as the autometer A/F guages...
The SAFC II reads the A/F ratio off of the stock o2 sensors, just like autometers guages, thuse making it just as useless as the autometer A/F guages...
yea ? and? i never said it was good to read them.. i said it was good FOR them... meaning.. you can adjust them.
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For those of us with an EX we could use the VAFCII right? It has everything that the SAFCII has plus the vtec control right? That's the only difference?
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Cool that's what I thought. Also, people have put the VAFCII on their cars and they do work with the D17 no problem.
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Well with the VAFC people would get a CEL and wouldn't be able to rev over 4K rpms when the engine was cold. They would have to use diodes to fix the problem.
The VAFCII doesn't have any of those problems.
The VAFCII doesn't have any of those problems.
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Intake manifold threshold (hey plastic is good at keeping down temperatures, but is it gonna explode?)
Manual Boost Controllers. They spike a lot. You can hit full boost at only part throttle and cause engine meltdown. IMO They suck. If you NEED to get an MBC, go for a dual stage one.
If anyone wants to add something you might wanna get or avoid with a turbo car, feel free to post.
Originally posted by Got Boost???
"Your gonna blow the welds on your intake manifold" and here i thought it was impossible.
I have a manual boost controller and i haven't spike once. Mazda does have a preset boost spike on my car but its between 2500 and 4000 RPM where the ECU can correct it.
Gotta stay away from the crap gas. And you have to let the turbo cool after you drive it hard. Most people with aftermarket turbos don't know this cause its not mentioned anywhere. But stock turbo cars like my mazda and the WRX usually come with a warning about letting the car cool after driving it hard.
"Your gonna blow the welds on your intake manifold" and here i thought it was impossible.
I have a manual boost controller and i haven't spike once. Mazda does have a preset boost spike on my car but its between 2500 and 4000 RPM where the ECU can correct it.
Gotta stay away from the crap gas. And you have to let the turbo cool after you drive it hard. Most people with aftermarket turbos don't know this cause its not mentioned anywhere. But stock turbo cars like my mazda and the WRX usually come with a warning about letting the car cool after driving it hard.
i already posted about crap gas, and adding toluene to it. the wrx comes with no such warning, and oil is kept circulating after the car is shut off due to convection.
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