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Yea so over the past few days i built my straight pipe in my spare time and will be writing up the DIY sometime tonight... stay tuned with pics


OK.. Materials needed:

(1) OEM downpipe
(1) 18" piece of 2 1/4" Exhaust tubing
(1) 2 1/4" to 2 1/4" exhaust pipe connector
(1) Save the original flange
(1) Table saw or miter saw with 10" metal cutting saw blade
ALSO a couple pieces of sandpaper to help clean up the locations you plan on welding

On the the DIY part...
Steps:

1) jack you car up in a recommended spot, and make sure to put a jackstand in on the other side to make sure the car is study, nubs...

2) once the car is stable and the front of the car is as high as you can get it off the ground, then you can slowly start removing the 2 manifold spring bolts connecting the manifold to the Downpipe, but DON'T undo them all the way as this will make it EXTREMELY difficult to remove the 3 nutz connecting the back flange of the downpipe to the Catback!

3) Don't forget to remove o2 sensors and keep them in a safe spot

4) now that the downpipe is off the car fire up the table/miter saw and make sure your cuts are Perfectly cut, you don't want bad angles with this project, so remember the old saying, "measure once do twice the work, measure twice and and do it right"

Your going to cut the downpipe in the two locations marked off in the caption... again don't forget we are saving the flange so cut it nice so that it will be reuasable and save you some more time and money.




5) now that the cat has been deleted you can now measure the length of cat so that you know the length of straight pipe that needs to be cut to fit in its place, I measured off 15" therefore i cut 3" off the 18" piece of 2 1/4" straight piping that you purchased at "discount auto"

6) now take the section of straight pipe that you just cut and grind down the edges a little on the end that was just cut, then sand it down, keep doing it until it appears a little roughed up but is not sharp to the touch.

7) now grab the forward section of the cut up downpipe and grind that edge down just as you did with the straight pipe.

8) you may bolt back up the forward section at this point to the manifold and put the bracket in its hanger.

9) This is the test fit, finger tighten the two spring bolts holding the top section up to the manifold and put the bracket in its hanger as stated in step 8... once you've done that place the connector on the end of the straight pipe... now jack up the straight pipe with the connector facing the top section and make 3 or 4 marks with a permanent marker to make sure your welds are lined up and you dont' get a cockeye'd pipe that doesn't end up working... do the exact same thing with the flange to the back of the straight pipe, make 3 or 4 marks going from one pipe to the other.

10) unbolt the top section once again

11) now we do what we call a spot weld or a Tac weld... basically you weld a tiny little dot on one of those marks you made previously on the connector and straight pipe... then do another test fit with the top section finger tight and in its bracket and make sure its going straight to the catback... if all is correct and good unbolt the top section once again.

12) finish the weld all the way around both ends of the connector, welding the connector to the top section and the connector to the straight pipe.

13) now we make a spot weld on the flange... bolt up the DP assembly now once again, notice how its an assembly now ... once the top two spring bolts are pretty tight in place then squeeze the flange bolts in the catback holes... put the nutz on the back of the flanges studs and tighten em up at tight as possible

WE do this because if the flange may have been a little off this makes sure A) it will bolt up properly when fully finished and B) it will bend the flange to how it needs to be if it was a little off on its angle that you had spot welded... so in turn it correct it for you when you tighten it all together.

14) unbolt the whole assembly once again, and be sure not to bend the flange anymore because it's been molded to where it needs to be at this point after the previous step. Finish the flange weld... once your done with that get a gasket bolt it up and your good to go...





NOTE: I will be adding to the DIY when i bore out the hole in the straight pipe to build the mechanical o2 simulator
NOTE: New pics with the welds soon


anywayz... there it is... I will be offering my services to doing this for you, i will be asking $75 for labor plus your core OEM downpipe, and i'll do this all for you

 
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are u serious.. of all people didnt think u would do this

 
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I know right, but this is the product of somebody that smoked to much pot last year adn is now bored off his *** and decided to make a project and do it lol... here it is... more pics to come as well with the full review of how it works out for me

 
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hahaha... jb weld

 
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Jb weld..... JB WELD?! Are you going to use JB Weld to put it back on when it falls off?

 
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hahahaha...this is funny, but you guys under estimate jb weld...i had a friend that jb welded his block back together on he hatchback and went to the track the following weekend and it held up all day with several 12sec passes...its some strong stuff.

 
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I use JB Weld for everything...





























That doesnt get extremely HOT

 
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Nice DIY thgough, and please remind me next time he tries to sell his car, not to buy it

Seriously:
He can put together a hell of a custom turbo kit together for you.
Literally

( I know I know, I'm going to hell )

 
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No i went back and decided it was best to have the final weld in the middle MIG welded so that its sturdy right there, but so far everything has held up, the flange is locked in no movement, no leaks... just need to edit and state that the final welds are tru MIG welds

 
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so the JB Weld didn't hold?? big surprise.....

 
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No, I think he was saying he added a little re-enforcement to it.

 
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musta been fun/smelled nice trying to weld a joint with JB weld in it. Hehe. That stuff does hold good as a last resort or for filling head ports, broken pot-metal stuff, things like it either cant be welded or if you dont have any other options. I think JB weld is a great product if used intelligently, just not my first choice for exhaust assembly, or second, or third....

 
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Exactly, i didn't trust the JB weld in one location and got a personal friend to weld it up right in that spot for now just to see how it holds up... you all forget that i did this as a DIY... so that most people would have access to all the tools you would need to do this, granted the single weld i needed isn't a thing a DIY'er can do unless they can weld as well, but it puts an idea out there, and i'll be updating if/when the JB welds fall down... if not

 
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hahahaha JB Weld ftwwwwwwww

 
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you have got to be kidding me....

 
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EDITED 1st post with CORRECT DIY on how to do this... started out testing for all the cheapo's out there to see if the "Industrial strength" JB weld would hold up like they claim it will.. and it won't... its **** i had my friends come over last night, we shattered all the JB weld's and cleaned the pipes back up and took a MIG weld to all the afformentioned locations stated earlier in the DIY... i have now edited the top post so that its correct .... new pictures are coming, but might not be for a few days because i'm a lazy **** and like to drive my car than jack it up hehe

 
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new pics?

 
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your tital says "pleas revisit"

had me cracking up!

 
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Yea i can see why???

i retitled with "please revisit" so that people would see that the proper write-up and work was done properly and is no longer shitty JB weld...

 
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Shitty night pics of the welds are up