Varomnia

Hello all, first post here. I've been stalking these forums for some time now, but figured now that I have some spare money, I would join, and start my civic journey from start to finish detailing all my thoughts, steps taken to modify, and reasons for doing such. With luck, I hope to also video each modification I do to my 2004 Honda Civic 2dr EX (automatic) along the way, so if this becomes a popular and successful build, others can more easily follow suit.

Please be kind, as I am very new to modifying vehicles, but after repairing copiers for a living and staring at a part list screen for years, I can't imagine repairs/part list would be too much different, however, there will be many noobish questions posted here that I would like a response to, or at least link to another forum for further explanation. I hope for this to be the end all be all for this journey so others can just come through here to complete a similar build.

To start, I will list the parts I have/will add to my civic. (will update as the journey goes)
Exterior:
Kaminari Front air dam (soon to be installed)
Kaminari Side skirts (soon to be installed)
Duraflex R34 Style Rear Bumper (soon to be installed)
JDM BLACK DIAMOND Headlights INSTALLED
Clear Bumper Fog Lights+Switch (soon to be installed)
New OEM front bumper INSTALLED
New OEM hood INSTALLED
New OEM passenger fender (soon to be installed)
New passenger side splash shield (soon to be installed)
New driver side splash shield (soon to be installed)
New lower splash guard (soon to be installed)
New "H" Honda emblem front grille INSTALLED

Interior:

Engine Bay:

Suspension:

My Plans: It is painfully evident that to have a powerful and respectable civic, you are forced to swap your engine with something bigger. Over the years I have seen the meta change, however, I am leaning towards a possible k24a2 swap, however, I know little to what would require such a swap.

Here are my intentions... In the coming year or two when my stock D17A2 engine goes *kapoot* I wish to throw a good 10k into this civic to compete against my cousin's Mazda Speed3. I am not interested in the fastest civic in the world award, however, I am seeking a much more powerful engine, set-up, that will not only outperform speed3s but also be extremely reliable. Whatever extra parts needed to maintain a very reliable build is key, so no 30 boost.

Before we start with the plethora of engine swap questions, I wish to ask about exhaust and CAI set-ups. With my intention to swap to something at least as powerful as a K24a2, which exhaust could I go with now, that would not require too much modification for the inevitable swap? Also, I currently have an automatic transmission in this civic, would it be possible to remain automatic with this swap, or am I doomed to do a manual conversion in the future, and if so, wouldn't that also change my plans for CAI since the length would be a bit different?

As i'm sure you can already tell, I already have smoke coming out of my ears and VTEC in my brain is just now starting to kick in. Am I in over my head here? Give me some feedback please, let me know what YOU would do with a good 8,000, 12,000, and 18,000 budget. Thanks!

ezone

Welcome to the forum!
Search for what others have already done.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

?

What makes you think your engine is going kaput?
If you have bad maintenance, I would not recommend swap, if you catch my drift

Also, ram intakes are available, but are you talking about current engine or the swap? They are very different parts.

You could gain 25wheel hp with crower stage cam with intake, header, exhaust (I/h/e) in your current engine and still pull 40mpg (I have proof )

Mad Dog Tannen

Welcome to the forum.

How fast do you want to go?
How much money you got?

I like the J swap idea better.

You can make a reliable 30 psi engine that will last a long time, if you have enough $!

Varomnia

Thank you all for your time and comments. ^^

I bought this beauty at 94/96k miles, It was in a bad enough accident to brand the title salvage (now rebuilt), all before me purchasing. With me putting an additional 44k miles on her, all seems well so far, but I still have another 18 months to go before I can let her die. I maintain her very well, and put much love into her, however, I cannot say much for the previous owners. ^^

Interested in both options. I originally thought of swapping to a very powerful 4 banger build, but still at the point of weighing out which method to choose.

I may be interested in this route. I'm seeking either a highly reliable gas saving machine with slightly more pep to it than stock, or going all out and crafting something that could beat a Mazda Speed3 0-140. Either way, trying to find estimate of how much either option will cost me so I can weight out the pros and cons.

If I go the route you speak of with still being able to pull 40mpg, the i/h/e can be swapped to another b17a2 engine in case mine gives up the ghost, correct? If so, this may be the best option as b17a2 engines are quite cheap.

Also, keep in mind, my car is still automatic, would I need to convert to manual to achieve your gains, or is there a different automatic transmission I could use? My wife will be driving this car for the next 18 months until I turn 25, in which it will be my baby again.

I want to either beat a 2011 Mazda speed3 (290hp) or just pay a lot less and just gain a bit more pep with my current d17a2 engine.

With 18 months to go before this is my baby again, I have plenty of time to save up. With 17k in the bank right now, I could technically build the highest costing build out there, if I save an additional $300/month for the next 18 months. But need to weigh out all the options, No need to spend so much if I cannot beat a speed3 for under 14k.

I'm listening. You've got my full attention. Could you please explain, or link me the benefits between going with a J build vs a K build? At the end of the day, I don't want my car sounding like a fart can, which was why I originally wanted to do a bigger engine swap, so it sounds more beefier.

ezone

For batshiat insanity, google: 'Civic J swap' .....and check images

Varomnia

Holy crap. Some of those engines are too large to the point they had to cut part of the hood out to fit. Not interested in that, however, I am interested in that kind of power. Are there any of those J series engines that would fit in my engine bay without cutting my hood, otherwise, we would be forced to stick in the K series, correct?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Unsure if anyone have done it on the 7th gen, but depending on mounts used, the 6th gen have to cut hood or have the oil pan very close to the ground...

The auto trans have several members that had it fail on stock forms. Not worth for higher power. Option is to get a manual car instead, before you start.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

As long as you take care of head gasket and the timing belt when it's time (head gasket is diagnosing it before it happens, so check regularly the coolant levels), the D17A2 seem to last a long time.

Varomnia

If I were to just stick with my D17a2, and upgrading just some parts on the engine, maybe a little boost, would that kill the auto transmission? Let's stick with the highest reliability, while maintaining good mpg and performance when necessary, so where do I start and what parts should I be googling?

ezone

The auto trans in 04-05 was more reliable than 01-03. IDK how much additional power it can support though.

Mad Dog Tannen

Has port makes a low mount that fits the engine under hood, but the oil pan becomes the lowest point underneath.

More torque and less mods required for a v6 swap to get the same hp.

K series is a great engine too. But there is no replacement for displacement.

Varomnia

That settles it then. Which J series engine do you suggest I use as a swap and with other parts do I need to start googling to complete the build?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, I don't know of any 7th gen with Jseries engines.

ezone

There's a guy on another forum who stuffed a 3.2 into a Fit

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but he did not ask here, he just up and done it

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

this a reply to a 6th gen that wanted turbo in an auto - funny that the thread linked was just a few threads up in the FAQ sticky :

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I did google about J swaps, but did not see any 7th gen.

Also, it did seem that they are swapping the whole power train (not sure what is needed, engine/trans mounts, wiring harness, mounting points, hacking engine bay, modifying the half axles to fit the trans to the suspension, etc)

If you look into, you will also notice there are no mounts available for a EM2/ES2 J-swap in Hasport website - you will need fabricate it yourself. Could not find an available electrical harness either in rywire. You will need contact them and have them make a prototype custom for yourself.

PS: instead of asking, I highly recommend reading the stickies in the top, also google - there's a 14 page thread in another forums, BTW...

after reading all, then you start making more informed questions, not random ones. Honestly. If you are in the internet, it's a click away - much easier than nactually doing it. If you wait us to mouth feed you, it's not likely you will end up finishing the job.

Mad Dog Tannen

It depends how much you want to spend. I think 3.5's are the cheapest, you will have to research that yourself. I only looked in my area for a 3.0l. There are a few different options you will have to decide on.

Varomnia

Definitely! Thank you so much for your help so far. I'll definitely be doing that some more now that I know vaguely more of the terminology and companies that offer such products.

In the mean time, my OEM front bumper came in, so I spent about an hour putting it on today. Looks like it fit quite snugly!

Since my car was in a wreck previously before I bought it, the passenger side is not as seemless as I hoped for. As you can see, the headlight is pertrubing out slightly and it's annoying the crap out of me. Not sure what, if anything, I can do to resolve this, thoughts? I've tried loosening some of the bolts that hold the headlight in place, and tightening others, but that does more harm than it does good. Perhaps I have a unaligned "something" harness that my headlight sits on?


It's only 1 PM here on the east coast. I HOPE to have my OEM hood installed today. I'll upload again once that part is done. Having a hell of a time trying to fit the duraflex rear bumper on, might have to get the assistance of my local body shop for it, we'll see. Will need to hunt down some DIY duraflex bumper installs.

Varomnia

Got the hood on and aligned correctly thanks to the help of my old man. The passenger headlight/fender is still bugging me. I'm going to go out on a whim and say that it's the fender itself that is off, so a replacement fender will be ordered. The headlight lines up perfectly with all the other new parts, all except to fender, and after measuring, the fender is slightly off from the driver side, which is probably where the previous owner bondo'd to hell the fender then painted over it to save money. -_-


And this is about as far as I'll take this thread until my kaminari parts come in. Definitely taking the rear bumper to a body shop to put on. Not touching that with a 6 yard pole. I'd rather throw $150 at someone to put it on then to screw up and buy another one, freight isn't cheap.

Back to the swap, seeing as I cannot find someone who already has a J swap kit made for the 7th generation civics, I am going back to the drawing board and will most likely just pep up my B17a2 engine.

Please link me your thread, or post pictures of your ride. I'd like to immitate what you're using. Which leads me to a few questions, but will do some homework before I ask. I'm a noob, but I can do some research and not waste everyone's time. Half-way smart noob. ^^

ezone

Link is in his signature....Says "cam?"

Varomnia

Blows my mind how expensive some of these parts are. I'm sitting here ordering a plethora of parts to fix my washer fluid connectors/tubes/etc, and spending more fixing a few rubber pieces than replacing a heavy front passenger metal fender that is already primed. The price gouging is absurd, but I guess that is what happens when there's not much after market competition in manufacturing the uncommon parts. :P

Will have to hold off on the i/h/e for a month or two, but once I have a little bit more cash the wife will allow me to use, I'll be ordering all that is necessary to mimic sdaidoji's build + full exhaust system. Doing that work by myself and my father should cost us under $1,100 from what I can tell! ^^

ezone

$10 in a parts store would net you a bunch of 5/32" rubber tubing and some plastic T fittings or whatever you need.

Varomnia

Well screw me sideways... here I am spending upwards of $100 for OEM parts. Are there any other parts here that you see that I might be able to get at the part store? I can see a part list and know what I need, but walking into a store, steam starts coming out the ears and I start buying a bunch of crap that doesn't fit or I don't need. :P I also ordered some roof molding since dirt and grime and pushed the old out of it's laying position. Think I could possibly get that at the part store too, or would that be OEM?

76813-S84-A02 Gasket
80383-S5A-003 Clip A, Receiver Pipe
90652-SB2-023 Clip, Tube (7mm)
91523-SM4-003 Clip, Washer Tube
95003-07008-70M Bulk Hose, Vinyl (4X7X8000)
95003-07008-70M Bulk Hose, Vinyl (4X7X8000)
76830-SM1-004 Joint Y, Washer (Denso)
74308-ST0-003 Bracket, Roof Molding
74308-ST0-003 Bracket, Roof Molding
74306-S5P-A00 Molding Assy., R. Roof
74316-S5P-A00 Molding Assy., L. Roof

ezone

Almost every parts store has online parts lookups, you can see for yourself the hard parts that may or may not fit your car.

Sometimes you should not assume anything will fit at all. At least not correctly, without modification. 'ALMOST fits' is not the same as 'does fit'.


Other stuff is "fabricate as necessary" and you already expect to mess with it....like washer hoses. Yeah, you gotta have a good idea of what you need and what can work before you march in.


Washer nozzle gasket.
Fabricate DIY from an inner tube or something? Make sure you can get the nozzles out of the hood without breaking anything before you order.
Probably factory.

Bulk hose is the same as at a parts store, 50 feet rolled up on a spool, pull out what you want and cut.
Parts store may not have metric, so take in one of your remaining good fittings and see what size hose fits snugly.
5/32" or 3/32, I can't remember what's on the shelf at work.

Parts store should have universal T and Y shaped plastic vacuum hose fittings, a selection of shapes and sizes in a plastic case.

You don't have to duplicate what the factory did. Remember, the main goal is to get the hose to run from point A to point B without kinking.
Leave enough length in the hose near the hinges so the hood can stand straight up.


Clips to hold the hoses..... factory...if you can't find any other way.... I'd sure be willing to use plastic zip-ties to hold lines up to the hood or fender. You can improvise a lot for next to nothing.

Look close at your parts catalog pictures. The clips come with the moldings. You don't have to buy extras.
Roof moldings, factory.....but you may be able to lift them up and wash the grime out from under them for free. IDK what you have to work with though.

Varomnia

^^ Thank you very much!!! Heading off to bed now and modified my order. After doing a skim search at my local 3 part stores, I can shave at least a good $50 off the part list. Thanks again for holding my hand and explaining in detail.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

huh, not exactly mine, it's quite common. also, i am using the Cold Air intake, not recommended where rains a lot. Ram intakes are better for that. Also, my exhaust is almost stock...

and don't confuse the engines - the B-series are for the previous generation civics. ours is a D-series, so it's the D17A2. no such B17A2