Rep Power: 256

be that as it may but body kits and vented hoods dont hinder performance.

 
Rep Power: 208

My car is slow.

I would rather have a slow car that looks slow, or a fast car that looks slow.

But a slow car that looks fast gets no respect, essentially it is just a poser.

Therefore my money is better spent under the hood, to improve the driving experience.

 
Rep Power: 208

It finally got here from 3000 miles away, so I won't have a check engine light anymore!...

 
Rep Power: 208

I got the Emulator installed today, I had to bend the header to the left so that it would not hit the axle shaft. I cleared the codes and the O2 code has not come back.

I also wired the Tachometer, it is really cheaply made, but it is kinds cool with the ability to color change the backlight. I haven't figured out how to set the shift light.

 
Rep Power: 208

I figured out how to set the shift light now. I set it to 5k because that is the top of the torque curve and this car has no top end power. I know redline is 7100 rpm and power curve is around 6500rpm so I will have to change it if I ever race it. The main reason for having it, is so I can bump the stereo without stalling the car lol.

I also found out yesterday that someone had a free tachometer cluster they would have given me... doh!

 
Rep Power: 208

I am out of parts to install. I am looking for a roof rack, so that I can get a Kayak for fishing and carry it atop. I really would like a boat, but my 2300 lb civic, just cannot tow that much.

The "angry bees" exhaust sound is still there, I will fix it in a couple of weeks, when I have a garage. I am 95% sure it is a heat shield on the muffler.

I am still looking for suspension stuff, but it is low priority.

 
Rep Power: 208

I exited the freeway last weekend, and noticed my temp gauge was creeping upward as I sat still. I turned on the heater full blast and it went back down to normal. The fans are not kicking on, so I need to start diagnosing, it is cold outside right now, so I may just run the heater for a couple of days until I can use garage, last time this happened it was the temperature sender. So I plan on testing the fans, then the sensor. A fluid flush and thermostat change couldn't hurt either.

 
Rep Power: 208

I jumped the fan, it works. I jumped the relay, it did not work. Got a new relay, still did not work. Got a new temp switch, still doesn't work. So I am down to rechecking the fuse. I will report back when I get some needle nose pliers, (I lost my old ones while fishing).

So it still is over heating, while at stoplights, and sitting still or pulling up hills.

On a side note I have been window shopping swaps that would be frugal. I have decided, after this engine blows, I would like to do a J30A4 (240hp Acoord V6 swap). It looks like it would be cheaper than B or K series swaps and it would have nice torque for the street. Plus a USDM should be more simple to swap in California. I have been searching local salvage yards for swaps, so I can start tuning-up and polishing the block. I can get the transmission later on, when I actually need to swap...

 
Rep Power: 208

I think I have found to culprit. There is no coolant flowing, the radiator is clogged!

I ordered a brand new brand-X all aluminum radiator to replace it from Amazon. It will arrive next week after Wednesday.

I am looking at savage yard right now for a J30A4!

 
Rep Power: 208

I did a little more research. It looks like $450 is about the cheapest J swap mounts and I either have to build a axle to fit or buy the $400 set from Hasport. I read that I can use a b series outer with a TL inner, so that may be a mire frugal route. I was also considering having a friend of mine fabricate some mounts, so that is another option too. Either way I estimate that, at most it will cost $2500-$3000 to do the whole swap (if it,s just a swap with not tuck/polish/etc). I think this is a good way to go instead of dong a long block replacement/overhaul and I will be pleased with the added acceleration. I am curious what kind of mileage the 3.0l engine would make too. I estimate around 25-30mpg. Vtec would be kinda cool too.

 
Rep Power: 244

J-Swap would be awesome!! That's a great engine with some nice torque. I think it would be worth the effort.

 
Rep Power: 208

I think so, it's the classic formula for going fast. Big engine + light car = fun

I am going to see what parts I get for Christmas. I am also trying to get a Kayak for fishing right now too.

I am going to have to fins the engine myself, it looks like they are all over and modestly priced compared to K or B series. I will also have a B16 that I can mess with/rebuild/race out/sell.

 
Rep Power: 208

My new radiator arrived today, it is cheap and, so I had to make it fit...

But now that fans kick on and no more overheating!

 
Rep Power: 208

I got the rad in, it looks nice and works well. The stock hoses where a very tight fit.

 
Rep Power: 208

While changing the radiator I saw that the front passenger side strut was leaking. Since I wanted to change the shocks to something a little more sporty. After the new year I will be getting these and lowering at least one inch...

https://progressauto.com/products/sf.../productID/779

 
Rep Power: 208

So ironically right after I decided that I want to lower my car, my apartments decide to install 4 tall speed bumps between me and the gate (yes literally yesterday they put them in). So I may be going the other direction and raising it a inch instead. I think I can get rubber spacers to accomplish it, camber bolts and maybe I can shim something in the rear when I raise it. I drive on crappy city roads and rough rocky off road sometimes, so I think raising it is the most functional option, it would only cost about 80 extra dollars atop doing a strut change.

I am looking at KYB GR-2 struts, reusing the old springs, with 1" risers, new shock mounts and dust covers, shims for rear (if I can) and camber bolts for the front... and maybe mud flaps if I can afford them (lol).

 
Rep Power: 208

I've been doing a lot of research. So when I get some $ for maintenance in January. I am going to get a couple of things that will help with auto X and still be my commuter car.

For reliability, legality and to plug all exhaust leaks I am going to get a new exhaust manifold.

$500 Magna flow cat/manifold (OEM style)


$220 KYB GR2 struts w/ bearings (OEM style)


$200-300 performance sway bars (performance)


I also put my subwoofers up for sale for $200, so that should offset some cost.

I am going to replace the Clutch master cylinder tomorrow (leaky, but functional).

Since I want to go "fully legal", I am going to get the window tint removed from doors and get sill shades for doors and visor for the rear window. I want my car to look/sound all stock and well maintained on the outside and in the engine. I am only modding suspension and interior for my own pleasure while driving.


After all of that is done, I will attempt to learn how to do some body work, because every panel has some type of damage. I would like to paint it flat sand.

 
Rep Power: 208

So far this week, I have done a lot of work...

On the car (Toshi):
changed brake fluid
changed clutch master cylinder
adjusted valves
full interior detail
full engine detail
removed the subwoofers
detailed trunk/spare area

Motorcycle (Aretha)
finished rebuilding brakes
R2 rear wheel bearings
torque triple tree and front axle
mounted controls/bars

I hope to get her running next week

I also cleaned out/organized/searched tools/garage (a lot of stuff/work).

 
Rep Power: 208

After getting some Christmas $, I just ordered KYB GR2 struts for all four wheels, new shock bearings, new catalytic converter/manifold (BOSUL stainless steel kind), A/C idler pulley.

I am still shopping for sway bars and possibly a roof rack for kayak/snowboard/fishing poles.

This should cure the exhaust leaks, and the blown shocks. Will be installed next month.

 
Rep Power: 208

Roof rack ordered!... $70 on Amazon, we will see if it is as cheap as I think it is.

It should all be here by tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 294

$70 for a Rood Rack? Wow!

 
Rep Power: 208

So everything came yesterday. I went over to the garage this morning and installed all 4 shocks and a new header/cat.

Success!

Exhaust leaks are gone, low end power feels stronger!... so quiet.

The shocks feel great, much smoother than the worn/blown stockies.

I am so glad I fixed the 2 most irritating issues with the car. It no longer sounds like poop or rides like a wooden wagon.

I found that most of the bushings are worn or blown, so I plan to get a poly master bushing kit, start with the rear trailing arm bushing, because they are both torn and are highest priority. I will also be shopping for sway bars around February.

PS I am pretty sure that BOSAL and MAGNA-FLOW are the same company.

 
Rep Power: 208

lol I was so concerned with the header and shocks that I forgot to bring the roof rack with me. I did not even open the box to look at it. I will pick it up soon.

 
Rep Power: 208

I reviewed the recommended service table in the manual and in the Haynes manual. It seems my car does need a PCV valve during tune up. So I will go get one today.

Question: Do I need to service/clean the PCV breather box? (I am assuming it is a air-oil separator) I think it needs regular cleaning, and I will do it anyways this time around.

 
Rep Power: 208

Energy Suspension master kit and PCV valve grommet ordered!

The trailing arm bushings are torn badly and the whole chassis could use a little tightening.

The old PCV valve grommet is leaking and AutoZone wanted $14 for a special order replacement, so I ordered a $3 one from partsgeek.com

 
Rep Power: 208

I never got a good header pic without the heat shield, but here she is with the heat shield.

The heat shield got a little cleaning up before installation too.

Toshi also got her roof rack installed, I will post a pic laters.

 
Rep Power: 0

I came a little late to this thread, but I love all the projects you've had! Nice work!

 
Rep Power: 208

Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 208

Roof rack is on! It howled like a wolf until I put the fairing on. I also used my old ski/board/pole rack. I can finally store my fishing poles out of the way and not have to fold down the rear seat as much.

My car is pinging, so I am going to investigate this weekend. I suspect the fuel system has low pressure, maybe a bad pressure regulator or clogged fuel injectors? I will also adjust and check plugs for gap and insure they are the right ones. I checked/adjusted ignition timing with no effect. It may be a air sensor as well. we will see


My suspension master bushing kit and pcv valve grommet are on their way...

 
Rep Power: 0

I came a little late to this thread but caught most of it. Great project congratulations on it, I'll stick with this thread from now on