Rep Power: 267

Why do you regret it?

But if you were going to do that, I would buy the one that was posted on the first page because it's one piece stainless.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/CatalyticCo...EM00612/322365

 
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A google search brought me over to this page, I have 2 civic's with cracked manifolds. My wife's is noisy and sounds like a 1950 john deere when she leaves work, and I put in our carbon monixide dector from our travel trailer on her passanger seat and sure enough, when in traffic the alarm went off..... so, gotta fix these cracks- has anyone tried ultra high temp epoxy or welding them? I measured the temp of of the manifold where the crack is (by the O2 sensor) and it was 1400F so this metal must expand and contract alot. Any input would be great.
Take care, Joe

 
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How does one PREVENT the Exhaust manifol form craking in the first place?
It happened to my kids 01 civic. I now have a 01 civic with 50k and would like to PREVENT the problem. Any ideas?
Thanks

 
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As a consumer You cannot. It is all physics. The engine/environment gets so hot while the outside is cold. It is like putting icy water into a hot glass.
It will crack sooner or later. Perhaps, the manufacturers could do something about it by improving the quality. But they want to make more money..

They know what they are doing since the warranty on manifold is 8 years(here in Canada). Mine got crack right after that. As Expected..

As consumers, I think we should ask the warranty on all parts when we buy the car. And be suspicios on certain parts during warranty periods. Usually, those parts give signal in advance, before they go bad. Most of the time it is our mistakes. And, manufacturers do know that...

Cheers,

 
Rep Power: 0

Folks,

Say I like doing my own things,. How long would it take to replace a manifold(01/DX) if you need to do it yourself? Would you recommend that? Any experience/ideas, please?

 
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I would say do it urself. It took me about an hour to do swap mine out for a aftermarket header, but I have an ex. Be carefull though cause I snapped a stud on mine(the nut was locked on there because of the heat cycles). If squirt it down with lube and let it set for a bit u will be ok.

 
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Well, it's been almost a year since I started this post.

My California smog check is due in January. My check engine light is still on with code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I have cleared the code a few times over the past year, but it always returns within a day or two. The repair welds on the exhaust manifold have held so far.

I plan on changing out the entire exhaust manifold/cat assembly with a new Honda original (18160-PLM-A50) later this year. I will post back here and let you know if that clears the code for good.

TedSmith, changing it out is an easy job. Unless you get a stubborn bolt, it will take you about half an hour. Make sure the engine is cold, and spray the bolts with some liquid wrench before you try to loosen them. The last thing you want is to snap a bolt off in the engine. I had no trouble with mine using this method.

For those of you that are in the same boat that I'm in, here are the cheapest Honda factory exhaust manifold/cats that I have found, about $440 NEW.

MajesticHonda
HondaPartsCheap
HondaPartsNow

The last two are in California, for those of you having trouble getting a California approved cat. If anyone finds it cheaper, I would love to know about it.

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 235

Look here: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...842535764.html http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1845741871.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/1844211567.html http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1846087220.html

I would suggest you look at every craigslist site in cali EVERY day. Eventually you'll find one. It takes an hour or two to look the first time. After that it'll take half that time if not less because you only have to look at the first couple lines. It took me 4 months but, I found the cat, resonator, and brand new muffler for $75. Sold the muffler for $45. (your experience may vary. lol)

*Make them send you pics so you don't drive all that way for nothing. Then tell them you will take it off as you already know how and that way you ensure that it won't get broke. Good luck.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well, I tried to delay the expense of buying a new cat/exhaust manifold by clearing the code out of the OBDII computer just before I got the car smoged this morning. It failed the smog test. $56 lesson learned.

The check engine light was out for the smog test, but the car failed for two reasons;

1. The memory in the OBDII computer was cleared and that is detectable during the smog test = FAIL

2. The emissions were indeed above tollerance; specifically the NO PPM was above limits on the 15mph test = FAIL

If I would have seen http://www.aa1car.com/library/p0420_dtc.htm this morning, I would have known not to try smoging it.

I also checked my O2 sensors with the scan tool. They appear to be operating correctly, so I'm fairly sure that the O2 sensors are okay.

I ordered a factory new cat/exhaust manifold today from HondaPartsNow.com for $421 plus tax & shipping = $482

I will be installing it next week. I will let you guys know if it resolves the P0420 code.

I hope this info is helping someone else.

 
Rep Power: 0

I installed the new cat/exhaust manifold yesterday without any problems, and cleared the P0420 malfunction code out of the computer. I'll need to drive it for a few days to make sure that the MIL light stays off and the OBDII computer can rebuild the data history before I can try to smog it again. My registration is due on January 20th, so hopefully 10 days is long enough to get the data history built back up. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 
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Well, I've driven the car for a week and 800 miles on the new cat, and the MIL is still out. I think the new cat has taken care of the P0420 code. Now let's hope it will pass California smog. I'm taking it in on Tuesday, January 18th; I'll let you know.

 
Rep Power: 0

The CA Smog Test passed with flying colors and the P0420 code has not returned, so I think this problem is solved. I did not have to replace either O2 sensor. The Cat/Exhaust manifold replacement did the trick.

 
Rep Power: 190

I'm replacing mine soon too. Used some liquid weld crap that pretty much holds for a couple weeks to delay doing mine. Question though.... do you have to replace the gaskets when you replace the manifold? If so what are the names of the gaskets i need to buy?

 
Rep Power: 235

^^ Yes, replace it. Exhaust manifold gasket.

 
Rep Power: 812

the bottom donut gasket is already hard and can prolly be reused, but the top one is a crush gasket and can only be used once. it has raised rings around each port that flatten when you tighten the bolts.

 
Rep Power: 260

I had the same on my 03 civic, I took it out and was able to weld it. You can try to take it to a welder.

 
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Thanks for the info, I am also learning more about my recent purchase an '03 Civic LX. Now I am a black sheep in a family of GM engineers! But very happy as the Civic drives just beautifully & I get 38MPG!

A question, I also have a crack in my manifold and my mechanic just told me that 1) I HAVE to buy a genuine honda part (OEM) because aftermarket will just break in 6 months to a year and 2) he has to remove the dash to replace the manifold which seems pretty strange to me.

Does any of that sound reasonable?

 
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Don't go back to that mechanic again. The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine and has nothing to do with removing the dash. That's like saying you have to remove the spare wheel from the trunk to replace windshield wipers.

 
Rep Power: 812

haha well he is right about 1 because cheaper aftermarkets use nowhere near as much expensive catalyst as oem so they only last about a year or two instead of 10 yrs or more. the second part yeah i have no idea what he was thinking.

 
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How do you test a catalytic converter? I was listening to a radio show and they talked about testing back pressure through the O2 sensor hub? Unfortunately didn't hear the whole conversation.

 
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How well has that weld held up?