Rep Power: 0

Okay, to start this all off. I hardly know anything about cars. I've done extensive research for the last couple months and I really just don't know anymore. If I didn't owe on the car, I'd probably just scrap it because of funds currently.

Anyways, I changed my crankshaft sensor about 2 months ago after I was experiencing some issues with my car. I changed this sensor because the obd scanner at Autozone spit the code at me. I changed it, and everything worked fine for about a week, no issues.
One day after just getting home with my family from dinner, I was "showing off" and revved my car. It shot up around 7200 rpms. Check engine light came on immediately.
My RPM gauge stopped working, and the temperature coolant gauge stopped as well. I turned the car off, turned it back on and than it began to make a clicking sound about 10-15 times and while that was happening, my RPM gauge and coolant gauge would fluctuate.
After researching for countless hours, it all led me back to my ECU being the issue.

I went to a junkyard, pulled an ECU and than realized after trying to install it that the part number had to pretty much be identical with a few exceptions. Did more research, ordered another ECU that was compatible with my car, took it to a honda dealership and was told I had a 80 percent chance of the flash not working and that they recommended I ordered a new one. I knew he was full of it. I called another dealership, took it there. They had a hard time pulling the VIN and other information off my old ECU, recommended I leave it for a day. Well, they called me the next day and told me it was fixed and ran like new. I went in and picked it up.

Paid 141 plus the 100 for the ECU. Drove it out of the parking lot and it DID drive like it was new. Took it to the gas station, filled her up, turned her back on and than boom! Check Engine light is back on... lol. Back in limp mode, burns rich again... Runs like ****. The only difference now is that, my ECU no longer makes a clicking noise, and my GAUGES don't fluctuate... But they still don't work. I'm thinking it could be something else besides the ECU? Since its acting differently now. Maybe a short somewhere? I'm actually surprised HONDA didn't run test and everything else while they had it? I called them back and the only thing he could say was "Oh... that's strange. Maybe its a wire or a fuse or a short somewhere. When are you able to reschedule?" I have a hard time getting to work without a car. Finding a ride is nearly impossible being in my situation.

So far this year I've had the timing belt, water pump, knock sensor, tps sensor, crankshaft sensor, map sensor, and some other stuff replaced.... including the ecu. It's never ending.

Could it be a fuse or something?
PS: I can't scan it with an OBD scanner. I just get an error. I've tried more than one.

2005 Honda CIVIC LX
150,XXX Miles

 
Rep Power: 518

Everyone has missed the ROOT CAUSE of the ruined PCM(s).

Usual root cause: Someone forgot to fully tighten both of the alternator mounting bolts.

 
Rep Power: 118

Yea, that was my thought as well.

Had to loosen the alternator to gain access to the crank sensor. Maybe top bolt was never retightened, maybe bottom bolt was not tightened enough, maybe after period of time the bottom bolt worked loose. revved engine up really high and sudden loss of adaquate return ground connection to the alternator resulted in the return power comming back in through the ECU connection causing blown ECU..

New ECU, same poor grounding of Alternator, random bump from starting jolt and zap there goes the next ECU.

Still possible your second ECU just died randomly so quickly.. Just trying to help make sure third time around goes better.

 
Rep Power: 0

It makes more sense now. So, Should I replace the alternator? Or, tighten the bolts... does that resolve it? I mean, would it ?

 
Rep Power: 118

Alternator likely is still fine.

If it’s been loose for a period of time, grime and corrosion may already be covering the contact surfaces so simply tightening now might not give a good connection.

I would suggest
disconnecting positive wire from battery,
unbolt power steering pump and set aside
unbolt mounting bolts but don’t remove the connectors on the alternator and pull it up, might need to uncoil harness but loosening the cable power nut is a risk to be avoided.
unbolt the lower alternator bracket
clean the aluminum on all surfaces where it bolts together.

i suggest using a damp miracle eraser (brand name one not generic) to clean the aluminum. Works really well and easy to clean up residue with squirt or two of water from a spray bottle.
reassemble and make sure everything gets tightened correctly.

hopefully this is the reason your popping ECUs.

 
Rep Power: 518

Correct the alternator mounting (grounding) problem, if that's actually the root cause. (See post above.)

Then you get to find out if your PCM will live.
If it's to the point that it cannot communicate with a scanner under any circumstances, it's probably already ruined....and will need replaced again

 
Rep Power: 0

Hm. I wasn't the one that did my crankshaft sensor but I watched the guy do it. He did unbolt the alternator but as far as unplugging anything? Could just the slightest offset cause this? I think something happened with the top bolt so we just went to O'Reillys and got a regular bolt with a washer. Could that be an issue?

since having this new ecu, the car doesn't click and the battery light don't come on. But it takes a little longer to start and it still smells like **** because it's in limp mode lol.

 
Rep Power: 118

Ohh. Heck yea that is anything but good....Wonder if he used bubble gum too

 
Rep Power: 518

What bolt exactly are you talking about?

How many of these PCM's are you going to pay for before the root cause is fixed?

 
Rep Power: 0

Well. I don't plan on paying for any until I was more clear. And I'll have to take a picture or reply with a photo later. It's a bolt that holds the alternator in place. I wanna take it to a shop but I'm just unsure if I should go to honda for a third time.

 
Rep Power: 518

This is from the last one in our shop....an indy shop did the timing belt and left the alternator bolts loose and caused not only the damages in the picture, it also ruined the PCM.