Coilovers or Lowering Springs?
#1
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MS
Age: 38
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Coilovers or Lowering Springs?
In ya'lls opinion, what is the best adjustable coilovers for our cars? Like i konw there are quite a few companies that make coilovers for 7th gen civics but i need some suggestions on which ones are the best..or would it be better to just get lowering springs? and if i got lowering springs would i have to get anything else like shocks or anything?...thanx
Last edited by 7thgencivic9; 04-27-2003 at 09:19 PM.
#2
The Standard One
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: City of Angels, California, US
Posts: 11,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 392 theres 2 different kinds..
sleeved and true..
i personally wouldnt ever get sleeved coilovers. reason being, on stock shocks they suck and with konis(the ONLY aftermarket shock available) they cost almost as much as true coilovers.
sleeved and true..
i personally wouldnt ever get sleeved coilovers. reason being, on stock shocks they suck and with konis(the ONLY aftermarket shock available) they cost almost as much as true coilovers.
#6
Resident Tough Guy
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Riverside, California, US
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Cost..
What would the Tein True Coilovers cost? Oh, and is it true that coilovers make a hell of a lot of noise when on the vehicle? Just wondering. Almost decided to get a set of coilovers rather than wait forever for aftermarket Struts from a company (at least for the front)
Also is it true that no matter what you do Coilovers will always need to be re-adjusted because they loose their height settings over time?
Also is it true that no matter what you do Coilovers will always need to be re-adjusted because they loose their height settings over time?
#9
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MS
Age: 38
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 would i be better off just gettin lowering springs instead of coilovers? whats the main difference? I know nothin bout lowering cars...obviously lol
#11
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MS
Age: 38
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 what about lowering springs? what brand is the best? and how much of a drop should i get for 17" rims? will i need new shocks? and also is goldline or skunk2 springs better?
Last edited by 7thgencivic9; 04-27-2003 at 09:53 PM.
#12
Registered!!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Ok I will attempt to discuss the differences between a true coilover, a sleeved coilover, and spring/strut combo.
A Sleeved Coilover
Basically when someone is talking about a sleeved coilover they are referring to GC's (ground controls) or Skunk2's. In simple terms what they consist of is the spring and the metal cylinder that is threaded "Sleeve" that can be adjusted to different heights.
For the Sleeved Coilovers, you still need struts. You can just use your OEM ones until they blow (depending on how low you drop it) or can pair them up with struts from KYB and Koni. Other companies do make replacement struts however these 2 seem to be good names, also because the KYB AGX's and the Koni Yellows are also adjustable. Unlike the Tokico's.
If you were gonna go with the GC's then I suggest pairing them with the Koni Yellow's (I think they are both made for each other ... or I heard something like that)
Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's
1) Some have reported that they hear a metal on metal type noise when turning or going over large bumps, creaking etc however most of the time it has been concluded that the problems were due to bad installations. Therefore, just like any car parts pick a reputable place to get your components installed, it will save you in the end.
2)Also, due to the sleeves being threaded, living in Ottawa with winter, salt can cause the threads to become seized or corroded during the winter. A solution to this problem would be to heavily grease up the threads before and maybe repeat applications throughout the winter. Also, adjusting them every once and a while will keep them from seizing aswell.
A True Coilover
A true coilover basically is the whole "shinnizzlle". It is the spring the threaded section paired with a strut. Although the most expensive, they are pure racing type components, like many said overkill for road use. Due to the fact that the whole unit is assembled to fit together perfectly, there is less occurances of problems (noises etc...) Companys to look for are Tein's.
Potential Problems with True Coilovers
Refer to Problem #2 above under the "Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's" section.
A Spring/Strut Combo
Basically this combo is simply changing your springs to give you a drop and adding in a set of aftermarket struts to complement the ride.
For springs you can choose from many different company's
Neuspeed, H&R, Eibach, Goldlines ... tonnes of them. Each one of the companys have different spring drops for each car so you should do you research on what ones you want, depending on how low you want to go.
Now for this combo you can just ride on your OEM struts, but depending on how low you go your struts will eventually blow out and you will have to get new one's. Basically, people notice that if you lower the spring but ride on factory struts the ride tends to be a little bit bouncy. Changing to aftermarket struts will definetely improve the ride and lessen the bounciness. Again good companys to look at are Koni's, KYB or Tokico (from most expensive to least expensive).
Potential Problems with the Spring/Strut Combo
1) Basically, the spring drop will be constant ... so be careful when picking what type of spring you want because you won't be able to raise or lower it like the other to options above. Also, keep in mind if your getting rims to remember to leave enough space for an upsized tire, to prevent rubbing etc.
2) Some springs I have heard tend to make squeeking noises ... due to them not coming with isolators. Basically from what I understand the isolator is a rubber hose type covering that isolates the bottom few coils and prevents them from making the noise. This is due to the fact that the coils of the spring are not a consistent space apart from the top of the spring to the bottom. Often one side is "wound" closer together.
I hope this clears up some questions about potential drop options for their cars. If I have written any incorrect info please respond and let me know.
L8tr
A Sleeved Coilover
Basically when someone is talking about a sleeved coilover they are referring to GC's (ground controls) or Skunk2's. In simple terms what they consist of is the spring and the metal cylinder that is threaded "Sleeve" that can be adjusted to different heights.
For the Sleeved Coilovers, you still need struts. You can just use your OEM ones until they blow (depending on how low you drop it) or can pair them up with struts from KYB and Koni. Other companies do make replacement struts however these 2 seem to be good names, also because the KYB AGX's and the Koni Yellows are also adjustable. Unlike the Tokico's.
If you were gonna go with the GC's then I suggest pairing them with the Koni Yellow's (I think they are both made for each other ... or I heard something like that)
Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's
1) Some have reported that they hear a metal on metal type noise when turning or going over large bumps, creaking etc however most of the time it has been concluded that the problems were due to bad installations. Therefore, just like any car parts pick a reputable place to get your components installed, it will save you in the end.
2)Also, due to the sleeves being threaded, living in Ottawa with winter, salt can cause the threads to become seized or corroded during the winter. A solution to this problem would be to heavily grease up the threads before and maybe repeat applications throughout the winter. Also, adjusting them every once and a while will keep them from seizing aswell.
A True Coilover
A true coilover basically is the whole "shinnizzlle". It is the spring the threaded section paired with a strut. Although the most expensive, they are pure racing type components, like many said overkill for road use. Due to the fact that the whole unit is assembled to fit together perfectly, there is less occurances of problems (noises etc...) Companys to look for are Tein's.
Potential Problems with True Coilovers
Refer to Problem #2 above under the "Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's" section.
A Spring/Strut Combo
Basically this combo is simply changing your springs to give you a drop and adding in a set of aftermarket struts to complement the ride.
For springs you can choose from many different company's
Neuspeed, H&R, Eibach, Goldlines ... tonnes of them. Each one of the companys have different spring drops for each car so you should do you research on what ones you want, depending on how low you want to go.
Now for this combo you can just ride on your OEM struts, but depending on how low you go your struts will eventually blow out and you will have to get new one's. Basically, people notice that if you lower the spring but ride on factory struts the ride tends to be a little bit bouncy. Changing to aftermarket struts will definetely improve the ride and lessen the bounciness. Again good companys to look at are Koni's, KYB or Tokico (from most expensive to least expensive).
Potential Problems with the Spring/Strut Combo
1) Basically, the spring drop will be constant ... so be careful when picking what type of spring you want because you won't be able to raise or lower it like the other to options above. Also, keep in mind if your getting rims to remember to leave enough space for an upsized tire, to prevent rubbing etc.
2) Some springs I have heard tend to make squeeking noises ... due to them not coming with isolators. Basically from what I understand the isolator is a rubber hose type covering that isolates the bottom few coils and prevents them from making the noise. This is due to the fact that the coils of the spring are not a consistent space apart from the top of the spring to the bottom. Often one side is "wound" closer together.
I hope this clears up some questions about potential drop options for their cars. If I have written any incorrect info please respond and let me know.
L8tr
#13
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SF, California, US
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 excellent post AznHalfy!!
I'd beg to differ about true coilover's being over kill for road use. It's important to match the shock's damping ability w/ spring stiffness. This is not a concern w/ true coilovers, so you will get an excellent ride. Ask people like RedDragon333, who have them
If the damping is too little, the suspension will be over- worked & may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be bouncy
If the damping is too much, the suspension is not allowed to work & excessive vibrations may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be too stiff.
SO- unless you buy adjustable dampers & know how to match them w/ your springs, true coilover's are the best bet.
Of course, not everyone cares about making the best use of their suspension or reducing wear & tear on their cars, where possible....
I'd beg to differ about true coilover's being over kill for road use. It's important to match the shock's damping ability w/ spring stiffness. This is not a concern w/ true coilovers, so you will get an excellent ride. Ask people like RedDragon333, who have them
If the damping is too little, the suspension will be over- worked & may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be bouncy
If the damping is too much, the suspension is not allowed to work & excessive vibrations may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be too stiff.
SO- unless you buy adjustable dampers & know how to match them w/ your springs, true coilover's are the best bet.
Of course, not everyone cares about making the best use of their suspension or reducing wear & tear on their cars, where possible....
#14
Hail to the king baby
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NorCal
Age: 48
Posts: 2,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 291 Coilovers suck!!!
unless you are constantly adjusting your car for different race conditions. do not get coilovers.
Each time they have been adjusted you will need an alignment....you cant just eybal it.
You will get uneven tread wear.
unless you are constantly adjusting your car for different race conditions. do not get coilovers.
Each time they have been adjusted you will need an alignment....you cant just eybal it.
You will get uneven tread wear.
#15
7thgen Power Maker
iTrader: (74)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Buffalo, NY, US
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 TEIN BASIC IF U WANT THE RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT AND THATS IT......BARE BONES GOOD COILOVER SYSTEM.....
http://www.dezod.com/pd_tein_basic.cfm
http://www.dezod.com/pd_tein_basic.cfm
#16
banned from avatar useage
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: san diego,ca
Age: 51
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 get the tein super street damper coilovers with 16 way dampening.
I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem. got the tein's for about $1100, the fronts make a little noise from 1 to 5 mph after that you can't hear a thing. solved the rear sag problem with the adjustable height, and the 16 way adjustable shock is cool, rides a little more comfortable than just springs with stock shocks, however the tein kit says, " for use on racing vehicles, and not on roads or highways" i love them, don't expect your car to be dumped , i have 17" wheels with 205/45 tires, the rear fender sits over the tire about half an inch, and the front has a wheel gap of about half an inch at the lowest ride height setting.
I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem. got the tein's for about $1100, the fronts make a little noise from 1 to 5 mph after that you can't hear a thing. solved the rear sag problem with the adjustable height, and the 16 way adjustable shock is cool, rides a little more comfortable than just springs with stock shocks, however the tein kit says, " for use on racing vehicles, and not on roads or highways" i love them, don't expect your car to be dumped , i have 17" wheels with 205/45 tires, the rear fender sits over the tire about half an inch, and the front has a wheel gap of about half an inch at the lowest ride height setting.
#17
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SF, California, US
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by luvvegas777
...
I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem....
...
I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem....
#18
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MS
Age: 38
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 thanx a bunch guyz. that clears up alot. i'm most likely gonna go with the springs/struts combo..cuz i don't have a pissload of money right now. but i still don't see why some springs lower the car more in the front than in the back and the front is already lower than the back??? why would somebody want their nose alot lower than the back...im totally lost on this please help lol
#21
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MS
Age: 38
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 well now that i think about it...i might go with sleeved coilovers...cuz i really don't got the money to pay for true ones right now...i'm thinkin bout skunk2s
#22
Registered!!
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas, Texas, US
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 so if i get lets say the tein ss tru coilovers, would i need new struts? camber kit? would i need anything else? is it better to go ahead and spend 1000 on true coilovers and be done or get sleeved and then get struts, camber kit, shocks etc??
#24
Search and Learn
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: 909, Socal
Posts: 14,004
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 407 Originally posted by Juancho007
so if i get lets say the tein ss tru coilovers, would i need new struts? camber kit? would i need anything else? is it better to go ahead and spend 1000 on true coilovers and be done or get sleeved and then get struts, camber kit, shocks etc??
so if i get lets say the tein ss tru coilovers, would i need new struts? camber kit? would i need anything else? is it better to go ahead and spend 1000 on true coilovers and be done or get sleeved and then get struts, camber kit, shocks etc??
might want camber kit depends how much you want to lower your car.
#25
Search and Learn
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: 909, Socal
Posts: 14,004
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 407 Originally posted by 7thgencivic9
well now that i think about it...i might go with sleeved coilovers...cuz i really don't got the money to pay for true ones right now...i'm thinkin bout skunk2s
well now that i think about it...i might go with sleeved coilovers...cuz i really don't got the money to pay for true ones right now...i'm thinkin bout skunk2s
why not just get lowering springs over sleeved coilovers.?
springs gives decent ride until shocks blown..
while you have springs on. save up for true coilovers.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
jackoncruzpr
7th Generation Civic 2001 - 2005
2
09-29-2015 07:59 PM