Coilovers or Lowering Springs? In ya'lls opinion, what is the best adjustable coilovers for our cars? Like i konw there are quite a few companies that make coilovers for 7th gen civics but i need some suggestions on which ones are the best..or would it be better to just get lowering springs? and if i got lowering springs would i have to get anything else like shocks or anything?...thanx |
theres 2 different kinds.. sleeved and true.. i personally wouldnt ever get sleeved coilovers. reason being, on stock shocks they suck and with konis(the ONLY aftermarket shock available) they cost almost as much as true coilovers. |
tein for sure~ |
skunk2 or ground controls for sleeve coilover tiens or B+G for true coilovers |
sleeved are good...skunk2 or gc..with koni true coilovers are the way to go tien are great |
Cost.. What would the Tein True Coilovers cost? Oh, and is it true that coilovers make a hell of a lot of noise when on the vehicle? Just wondering. Almost decided to get a set of coilovers rather than wait forever for aftermarket Struts from a company (at least for the front) Also is it true that no matter what you do Coilovers will always need to be re-adjusted because they loose their height settings over time? :confused: |
its about $1000 for teins and any other true coilover. i have b+g's and they dont make noises. |
Go with Teins, i have a set and i love them! Nice ride |
would i be better off just gettin lowering springs instead of coilovers? whats the main difference? I know nothin bout lowering cars...obviously lol |
Tiens or for sleeved coilovers, Skunk2's |
what about lowering springs? what brand is the best? and how much of a drop should i get for 17" rims? will i need new shocks? and also is goldline or skunk2 springs better? |
Ok I will attempt to discuss the differences between a true coilover, a sleeved coilover, and spring/strut combo. A Sleeved Coilover Basically when someone is talking about a sleeved coilover they are referring to GC's (ground controls) or Skunk2's. In simple terms what they consist of is the spring and the metal cylinder that is threaded "Sleeve" that can be adjusted to different heights. For the Sleeved Coilovers, you still need struts. You can just use your OEM ones until they blow (depending on how low you drop it) or can pair them up with struts from KYB and Koni. Other companies do make replacement struts however these 2 seem to be good names, also because the KYB AGX's and the Koni Yellows are also adjustable. Unlike the Tokico's. If you were gonna go with the GC's then I suggest pairing them with the Koni Yellow's (I think they are both made for each other ... or I heard something like that) Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's 1) Some have reported that they hear a metal on metal type noise when turning or going over large bumps, creaking etc however most of the time it has been concluded that the problems were due to bad installations. Therefore, just like any car parts pick a reputable place to get your components installed, it will save you in the end. 2)Also, due to the sleeves being threaded, living in Ottawa with winter, salt can cause the threads to become seized or corroded during the winter. A solution to this problem would be to heavily grease up the threads before and maybe repeat applications throughout the winter. Also, adjusting them every once and a while will keep them from seizing aswell. A True Coilover A true coilover basically is the whole "shinnizzlle". It is the spring the threaded section paired with a strut. Although the most expensive, they are pure racing type components, like many said overkill for road use. Due to the fact that the whole unit is assembled to fit together perfectly, there is less occurances of problems (noises etc...) Companys to look for are Tein's. Potential Problems with True Coilovers Refer to Problem #2 above under the "Potential Problems with Sleeved Coilover's" section. A Spring/Strut Combo Basically this combo is simply changing your springs to give you a drop and adding in a set of aftermarket struts to complement the ride. For springs you can choose from many different company's Neuspeed, H&R, Eibach, Goldlines ... tonnes of them. Each one of the companys have different spring drops for each car so you should do you research on what ones you want, depending on how low you want to go. Now for this combo you can just ride on your OEM struts, but depending on how low you go your struts will eventually blow out and you will have to get new one's. Basically, people notice that if you lower the spring but ride on factory struts the ride tends to be a little bit bouncy. Changing to aftermarket struts will definetely improve the ride and lessen the bounciness. Again good companys to look at are Koni's, KYB or Tokico (from most expensive to least expensive). Potential Problems with the Spring/Strut Combo 1) Basically, the spring drop will be constant ... so be careful when picking what type of spring you want because you won't be able to raise or lower it like the other to options above. Also, keep in mind if your getting rims to remember to leave enough space for an upsized tire, to prevent rubbing etc. 2) Some springs I have heard tend to make squeeking noises ... due to them not coming with isolators. Basically from what I understand the isolator is a rubber hose type covering that isolates the bottom few coils and prevents them from making the noise. This is due to the fact that the coils of the spring are not a consistent space apart from the top of the spring to the bottom. Often one side is "wound" closer together. I hope this clears up some questions about potential drop options for their cars. If I have written any incorrect info please respond and let me know. L8tr |
excellent post AznHalfy!! I'd beg to differ about true coilover's being over kill for road use. It's important to match the shock's damping ability w/ spring stiffness. This is not a concern w/ true coilovers, so you will get an excellent ride. Ask people like RedDragon333, who have them If the damping is too little, the suspension will be over- worked & may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be bouncy If the damping is too much, the suspension is not allowed to work & excessive vibrations may cause damage to other parts of the car & the ride will be too stiff. SO- unless you buy adjustable dampers & know how to match them w/ your springs, true coilover's are the best bet. Of course, not everyone cares about making the best use of their suspension or reducing wear & tear on their cars, where possible.... |
Coilovers suck!!! unless you are constantly adjusting your car for different race conditions. do not get coilovers. Each time they have been adjusted you will need an alignment....you cant just eybal it. You will get uneven tread wear. |
TEIN BASIC IF U WANT THE RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT AND THATS IT......BARE BONES GOOD COILOVER SYSTEM..... http://www.dezod.com/pd_tein_basic.cfm |
get the tein super street damper coilovers with 16 way dampening. I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem. got the tein's for about $1100, the fronts make a little noise from 1 to 5 mph after that you can't hear a thing. solved the rear sag problem with the adjustable height, and the 16 way adjustable shock is cool, rides a little more comfortable than just springs with stock shocks, however the tein kit says, " for use on racing vehicles, and not on roads or highways" i love them, don't expect your car to be dumped , i have 17" wheels with 205/45 tires, the rear fender sits over the tire about half an inch, and the front has a wheel gap of about half an inch at the lowest ride height setting. |
Originally posted by luvvegas777 ... I have a 2002 civic sedan lx and i had h&r springs the back was always lower than the front, even with the camber adjusted properly, took out my speaker box and still had that problem.... |
thanx a bunch guyz. that clears up alot. i'm most likely gonna go with the springs/struts combo..cuz i don't have a pissload of money right now. but i still don't see why some springs lower the car more in the front than in the back and the front is already lower than the back??? why would somebody want their nose alot lower than the back...im totally lost on this please help lol |
that how i lower my car, my front is lower than the rear, imo i dont like how it look when the rear is lower than the front |
yeah i don't think i'd like it either if the rear is lower...i wuz talkin about bein even and stuff |
well now that i think about it...i might go with sleeved coilovers...cuz i really don't got the money to pay for true ones right now...i'm thinkin bout skunk2s |
so if i get lets say the tein ss tru coilovers, would i need new struts? camber kit? would i need anything else? is it better to go ahead and spend 1000 on true coilovers and be done or get sleeved and then get struts, camber kit, shocks etc?? |
True coilovers come with struts that pair up w/ the coilovers. Yes, you will need a camber kit. |
Originally posted by Juancho007 so if i get lets say the tein ss tru coilovers, would i need new struts? camber kit? would i need anything else? is it better to go ahead and spend 1000 on true coilovers and be done or get sleeved and then get struts, camber kit, shocks etc?? might want camber kit depends how much you want to lower your car. |
Originally posted by 7thgencivic9 well now that i think about it...i might go with sleeved coilovers...cuz i really don't got the money to pay for true ones right now...i'm thinkin bout skunk2s why not just get lowering springs over sleeved coilovers.? springs gives decent ride until shocks blown.. while you have springs on. save up for true coilovers. |
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