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I have a 2002 HX and I'm interested in getting the NEUSPEED: 01-up Civic/ 02-up RSX Rear Sway & Tie Bar Combo from tornactive. It says on the bottom of the page "Only fits vehicles equipped with an OE rear sway bar.", does my car have one already?

Also whats the difference between the
* 2001-up Honda Civic LX Only (Incl. Si) Front 27mm Tubular Anti-Sway Bar
and the
* 2001-up Honda Civic Rear 22m Anti-Sway Bar w/ factory sway bar
????

Thanks

 
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your 02 HX has a rear sway bar.. so the Neuspeed one will fit. although hits a bit pricy if you ask me..

I'm assuming the other sway bars mentioned are the ones listed at tornactive..

the 22mm rear sway one is the same neuspeed rear sway bar u mentioned.. if u check the price they're both 325 I think.

and the 27mm is neuspeed's front sway bar for the LX only... i think that will be the one that will fit your HX too. the DX, LX, HX has similiar front sway bar like RSX's... the EX doesn't cuz we got a cat. convertor in the way...

getting a 27mm and 22mm will be pretty stiff. just letting u know.

 
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You should also invest in a rear lower tie bar ATLEAST. our cars weren't meant to handle the 22mm rear sway bar and you might bust part of your chassis if you don't have a tie bar. The neuspeed cross brace would also be a good investment for the front. Have you ever thought about the Progress bars? Those are 22mm for the rear with integrated tie bar and 27 for the front. That would be my first buy rather than neuspeed.

 
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The Neuspeed comes in a tie/sway bar combo I believe

 
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by robbclark1
our cars weren't meant to handle the 22mm rear sway bar and you might bust part of your chassis if you don't have a tie bar.[/q]

Actually, the car... or the Honda that carries the 22mm rear anti sway bar has a tie bar on it. No car that has a 21mm or thicker bar should be without a tie bar.

A JDM DC5R 22mm rear anti sway bar + aftermarket tie bar would be cheaper. Plus the DC5R one is 7lbs lighter. The tie bar by Progress is HUGE. If weight matters to you that is.



There is no such thing as a 22mm bar for a Honda Civic that's stock or OEM. The only OEM one by Honda comes from the new Integra (RSX) Type R that weighs 10lbs. If you get that, make sure you get the BUSHINGS and nothing else.

 
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by SlammedBlueEM2
A JDM DC5R 22mm rear anti sway bar + aftermarket tie bar would be cheaper. Plus the DC5R one is 7lbs lighter. The tie bar by Progress is HUGE. If weight matters to you that is.

Most likely, the Progress bar is a solid bar and the JDM bar is hollow, that would account for the weight, NOT ALL LIKE DIAMITER BARS ARE THE SAME!!!! a hollow bar will be weaker, as in have less force to apply to countering body roll, then a solid bar of the same Diamiter. So they are both 22MM bars but the Progress bar is mutch stronger.

 
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Do you have any personal experience with both bars to further elaborate? I do - and you're wrong. The Progress bar is not made of the same material as the bar made from Honda and the Honda bar is FAR from being hollow. It's has the integrity of a crowbar. Like you said, not all of them are the same - you couldn't be more right, yet you couldn't be more wrong.

 
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Ok this is gonna be long. But I agree that meterial of the bar should be taken in to account.


Factors that Determine Stiffness
There are two primary factors that determine an anti-roll bar's torsional stiffness: the diameter of the bar and the length of the bar's moment arm. Diameter is generally the easiest concept to grasp, as it is somewhat intuitive that a larger diameter bar would have greater torsional rigidity.
Torsional (or twisting) motion of the bar is actually governed by the equation: twist = (2 x torque x length)/(p x diam4 x material modulus.) And since the diameter is in the denominator, as diameter gets larger, the amount of twist gets smaller. Which, in a nutshell, means that torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.
For example, to compare the rigidity of a stock 15mm bar to an aftermarket, 16.5mm one, simply use the equation 16.54/154. Some quick math yields the figure of 1.46. In other words, a 16.5mm bar is 1.46 times as stiff-or 46 percent stiffer-than a 15mm bar of the same design.
Add just one more millimeter to the diameter of the bar-for a total of 17.5mm-and the torsional strength skyrockets to 85 percent stiffer than the stock 15mm bar (17.54/15.04 = 1.85).
However, in addition to the diameter of a bar, there is another very important factor that determines an anti-roll bar's torsional rigidity. This factor is known as the length of the moment arm-or in common terms, the amount of leverage between the vehicle and the bar.
As with anything, an increased amount of leverage makes it easier to do work. This is governed by the lever law: force x distance = torque. As distance-or the length of the lever-increases, the resulting amount of torque also increases. (This is why it was easier to move your big brother on the teeter-totter when he moved towards the middle and you stayed out on the end. You enjoyed increased leverage at the end, while he suffered from reduced leverage near the middle.)
Because an anti-roll bar is shaped as a "U," the ends of the bar that lead from the center of the bar to the end-link attachment serve as a lever. As the distance from the straight part of the bar to the attachment at the end link becomes longer, the torque applied against the bar increases-making it easier for a given amount of energy to twist the anti-roll bar. As this distance is reduced, torque is reduced-making it more difficult for a given amount of energy to twist the anti-roll bar.
It is this lever law that is applied during the design of an adjustable anti-roll bar. By using multiple end link locations, the distance from the point of attachment to the straight part of the bar can be altered. Or, in engineers' terms, the length of the moment arm can be increased or reduced in order to make more or less torque against the bar.
Using a setting farther from the center of the bar increases the length of the moment arm, resulting in more torque against the bar, allowing more twisting motion of the bar, creating more body roll. Using a setting closer to the center of the bar reduces the length of the moment arm, resulting in less torque against the bar, allowing less twisting motion of the bar, creating less body roll.
The actual impact upon torque can be compared by dividing the center-to-center distances of the end-link attachment points. For example, say the center-to-center distance of the stock rear anti-roll bar is 200mm. We can compare this to the 160mm distance of the firmest setting of a four-way adjustable 17.5mm bar by simply dividing the distances (160/200 = .8). In other words, a 160mm center-to-center bar produces only 80-percent of the torque that would be produced by a 200mm center-to-center bar of the same diameter. Or simpler yet, by using the 160mm end-link attachment points, we increase the stiffness of the anti-roll bar by an extra 20 percent.


Grassroos Motor Sports Anti-Roll bar Article

 
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Break it down now for him ZZyzx!

 
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Im not trying to sitck it to anybody, Im just stateing my case.

the article leaves out an important section in determining antisway bar strength. that would be Hollow Vs solid bars.

If I remember corectly after you determin the strength of the bar as a solid, to find the strength of a Hollow bar you have to subtract the Diamiter of the hollow section from the final figure. this means that you must know the thickness of the walls of the hollow bar, so Not all Hollow bars are the same either.

 
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I find this a bit interesting because for now this is the only reason how the Progress bar could be better than the Integra one. The arms on the Progress bar that attach to the endlinks are shorter than the one on the Integra.

I never disagreed that the Progress one is stronger if that's what you're trying to prove. It's a considerably heavier bar from what it's made of (feels like concrete :P ) as it most likely would do it's job a little better.

However, a rear anti sway bar's job technically isn't made to decrease body roll, it's job only affects the motion of the *springs* because springs rate/weight/height of vehicle affect a car's aerodynamics. For instance, a lowered car with a high # spring rate would allow less torque on the bar to flex the bar. To keep this brief, you could still get great handling by making it up with spring rates even if you work with a bar that's not as strong, or even without a rear anti sway to begin with. (Meaning anybody without rear anti sway bars 2k1/2k3 LX Civics... ) :P