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Mex,

I just sprayed alot of WD-40 into the cup separator and up into the upper mounts and where the spring contacts onto the adjustable perch. But the noise was only gone for three days. So I gotta go to Home Depot to get that Lithium grease. I'm planning to take apart everything, so that I can grease where the spring actually sits on. WD-40 is a liquid, so I'm pretty sure it just goes through the cracks and lubricates the springs, but not for long.

DonJuan,

Your making me feel worse about buying B&G then ever Don. I too feel that I should have waited for the TEin SS but got anxious when the B&G price dropped to 1000. But after taxes and shipping, it went to 1150 anyways. I'm probably going to take apart my system by two weeks and hopefully see that my rear shocks are okay. Dang, and to think, B&G really retails for 1800, while the Tein will only retail for 1250 i think.

I just wish that all the problems would be solved and for B&G to get their act straightened out. Good luck on getting your rear shocks Don.

 
Rep Power: 318

I'd like to use that lithium grease too, but i'd hate to take apart the whole front suspension again cuz then i'd have to get another alignment and camber adjustment. I'm wondering if there's a way to just compress the spring while it's attached to the vehicle so I could move it up or down to grease those areas? man.. i'm also thinking about getting a refund for my B+Gs and buying TEINs.. other than that sound everything seems to be ok with them though. I sprayed more wd-40 and it still makes that noise.

 
Rep Power: 318

I'm getting my B&Gs tomorrow. I'm gonna take a good look at these things to see what I can do to reduce my chances of unwanted noises. I hope the super long wait I had to endure means they were working on fixing the problems. I'll post pics of the whole process.

::crosses fingers::

 
Rep Power: 318

Bah, that was longer than one month. Stupid customs. FedEX guy delivered 'em this afternoon.

 
Rep Power: 318

OK, here's the pics of mine.

Front and Back


Front Assembly


Rear Assembly


OK, I've just been playing with the parts of the front coilover struts. Then ends of the main spring have DIFFERENT DIAMETERS. One end fits snugly in the upper spring cup (silver piece that was loose in the box), the other end fits in the spring separator rubber cushion. I wasn't sure if it was shipped assembled in the right orientation, so I checked the other strut (which I had not opened yet), and golly, the spring was put into the assembly upside down! If the spring is assembled in the upside down position, the spring will be loose in the upper spring cup and too big in the spring separator. I'm not sure if any of you guys checked this, but it's not too obvious.

If you did check this, and assembled the parts together in the correct orientation, and STILL get the noises, please let me know. I'm gonna try these without the lithium grease first. If the correctly assembled coilover still makes sound, I'll do the lithium grease treatment. It'll be a couple of days before I get the upper strut mounts, so maybe then I'll have a better handle on the grease/no grease decision.

Here's the gameplan:
Lithium grease at the ends of the springs.
Cut the bumpstops. (See question below).
I'm ordering new upper strut mounts so I don't have to take the stockers apart.

BUMPSTOPS
So which bumpstops do I cut? Fronts? Rears? Both?
How much of the bumpstop should I cut off? One "coil"? Two?

Wish me luck!

 
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[IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG]nice deal and its nice to look at too even i cant use them,,how did u squeez those pic into under 50KB?

 
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you know, looking at those pics, I see a rubber ring around the red seperator cup. my B+Gs did not come with that rubber!! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/IMG] i wonder if that could be causing the noise. Also, I did not think to check if the springs were right-side up when I installed them, but they seem to fit fine into the seperator cup (not too big) so I guess everything's fine there. man oh man, if I only knew the cause of that noise [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]

 
Rep Power: 318

I knew if I read this thread again more carefully, I would find the answer.

I think I'll just put the grease on from the beginning. I think I'll just hack off one of the bumpstop "coils" on each strut, front and back.
Upper strut mounts have been ordered, hopefully I'll get to work on this next Saturday.

 
Rep Power: 318

ok, I've got the upper spring cup, the spring, and the separator cup right in front of me.
If you fit the larger diameter end into the separator cup w/o using the rubber cushion, it fits quite nicely. But that means the smaller diameter end is still gonna be loose in the upper spring cup. Maybe B&G changed something with the spring design or maybe you're just missing the rubber cushion.

I would contact B&G and see if you were supossed to get those rubber cushions. If anything, maybe they will send you the updated parts (if any).

I ordered these when 2cute first hooked us up. That was on June 5, 2002. I got mine yesterday, August 29. 90 days. I was originally told one month, but that went on and on and on. In the meantime, I read about the problems you guys were having, so I assumed they were trying to solve the problems before they shipped out another batch. I bet they changed something.

FYI: The diameters of the spring at the ends is approximately 3.22 and 3.32.


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 8-30-02 B&G Coilovers - Spring Separator and Rubber Cushion(sm).JPG (34 Kb)

 
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I just looked at DuYaKnow's pics again. The rubber cushion looks like it's in the upper spring cup. I assembled my parts this way and it seems to fit. I wonder if it makes a difference what end the rubber cushion is on. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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hm.. this makes sense now; I do remember seeing rubber pieces on the upper mount for the spring, but I didn't think they could be removed. so, the question is: do they go on the seperator cup, or the upper mount?

 
Rep Power: 318

I'm gonna install it the way they shipped it, with the rubber thing in the separator cup. I'm gonna use the grease too 'cause I don't want to take the whole thing apart again.

Hopefully I'll be installing the rears tomorrow and the fronts on Friday (or maybe just all of 'em tomorrow). I'll try to get pics.

Don't let this thread die! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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the more I think about it the more I think the rubber ring should be used for the upper mount.. you know, for extra cushioning. let us know how everything goes. MAKE A DIY

 
Rep Power: 318

OK, get ready for a slew of pics.
I only did the rears today.

NOTE: For anyone working on coilovers, adjust the collars to your desired starting point BEFORE you install it on the car. I spent like 1/2 hour struggling with that spanner and the super-fine threads of the B&G bodies before I caved in and removed the assembly and adjusted them on the bench! (more on that later.)

Tools:
Torque Wrench (highly recommended you invest in one)
17mm socket
14mm deep socket
5mm alllen wrench
14mm wrench
Spring compressor
15/16" socket (for Craftsman spring compressor)
9/16" deep socket
9/16" wrench
jack stands (at least 2)

Step 1
Place rear of car on jackstands. I just used the middle of the swingarm mount for a jack point and placed my jackstands at the chassis hard points just in front of the rear wheels. If you don't have jackstands, GET SOME. They are only like $15-$20 per pair and MUCH safer than just using a jack or 2. You would look pretty silly crushed under your own car, dontchathink?

Step 2
Upper OEM Strut Bolts
Pull back the carpet-like stuff at the front corners of the trunk and you will find the top of the strut with two nuts each. Use a 14mm deep socket.


Step 3
Lower OEM Strut Bolts
Use a 17mm socket to remove this bolt. The bolt is only threaded on the end, so it'll back out only so far, then stop. I used a 1/2" open ended wrench to help pull the bolt out as I turned the ratchet. One of my bolts was kind of rusty and stubborn, so it'll take some muscle and sweat sometimes. If that dosn't work, cheat like I did and use an impact wrench.


Step 4
Once those 3 bolts are removed, the strut should come out. You may need to pry it out of the bottom mount using a screwdriver.


Step 5
Spring Compression
Make sure the spring and strut are marked in case you ever want to put it back together. (See that white line on the right side of the spring/strut?)
Attach the spring compressors, one on each side. The one's in the pic are Sears Craftman brand that have nifty little retention pins. I used a 15/16" wrench to turn the screws on the spring compressor, what a pain in the butt! I wish I had a 15/16" socket, but the wrench works (but is sloooow).


Step 6
Strut Disassembly
Once the spring is compressed enough (it will be loose between the spring cups), you can safely disassemble the strut.
Use a 14mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench to remove the top nut. The strut should now come apart into the parts shown in the pic.


Step 7 (OPTIONAL)
Lithium Grease
Due to other B&G owners having spring noise problems, I decided to use their hindsight as my foresight and coat the spring mounting surfaces with lithium grease. I hope it helps!
I also cut one 'coil' of the bumpstops off. Another hindsight/foresight thing.


Step 8
Assembly of B&G components onto OEM upper strut mount
The pic below shows the order the components. I had the adjustment collars all the was down so I didn't have to compress the spring to put the end nut on. Use a 9/16" deep socket to spin the first nut down as far as possible, tighten it using a 9/16" wrench and the 5mm allen wrench. Spin the second nut down on the first to lock it in place.


Step 9
Adjustment collars
At this point, you will want to adjust the ride height adjustment collars to your starting point. Believe me, it is MUCH easier to do this when the strut is off the car. I used 1.5" for dimension B as my starting height. Right now my car has about 1.5 finger gap.
NOTE: The pic below does NOT represent 1.5" for dimension B. The adjustment collars should also be locked when you make your measurement.


Step 10
Finished B&G Strut Assembly



Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-5-02 Rear Strut w- correct parts(sm).JPG (13 Kb)

 
Rep Power: 318

wow, some great pics [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] shoulda saved the rear for last since it's the easiest one.

anyway, when I took apart my rear struts, there was a spacer inside the upper mount (a black cylinder about 1.5" in length). did you notice this by chance?

also, where'd you pick up your lithium grease?

 
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hmm, the only black spacer thing out of the OEM struts is that little black cup looking thing in the Step 6 pic. It didn't fit over the corresponding disk on the B&Gs, so I left it out. Ehh, hopefully I don't need it. Now that I think about it, the B&G assembly has a lot more threads showing at the end. Ack, I better make sure it's ok.

I got the lithium grease at Menards, but you can pretty much find it at any hardware store or auto parts store. It comes in can form, kinda like chip dip.

 
Rep Power: 318

AHHH! I came home from work to eat lunch and I checked the upper strut mounts. Apparantly YOU NEED THAT BLACK SPACER. I had thought about it at work and all that racket it was making on the short drive there. The only thing supporting the tops of the damper pistons was the little rubber endcap, which I guess pulled out as soon as I put weight on the car. I should've checked it! GRRR, guess I'll have to fix it tonight. At least the springs were still supporting the car.

Once again:

 
Rep Power: 318

OK, the rear is FIXED. I'll post pics later. I had to put that black cup thing and the washer that sat on top of it in. Problem solved. Problem created! The rear strut is now longer, so it dosn't just slip into the lower mounting point. I had to rig a jack compress the strut. Here's the PIC.


Front is mostly done. The tie rod separator kind of messed up the end of the bolt, so I have to get a metric die from work to clean up the threads. That's the last thing!

THOSE WITH CLICKING AND CLANGING DURING SLOW SPEED TURNS
Did you put grease between the silver upper spring cup and the upper strut mount? These parts spin against each other when the strut is turned. I noticed this on the stock strut after I had the tie rod removed and I was wrestling with the stock strut. If you didn't grease it, the clanging could be the spring turning inside the upper spring cup.

I haven't driven mine yet, but I greased that contact area. I'll report if I have clanging or not.


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-5-02 Rear Strut Pusher Upper(sm).JPG (25 Kb)

 
Rep Power: 417

damn one week project ey? hehe j/p... atleast your being cautious, good luck on it

 
Rep Power: 318

Ok, just finished and went for a short test drive.
Initial observations: me->

No spring noises of any kind yet. I tried slow speed tight radius turns to try and get the spring clanging noise you other guys have gotten, but I didn't get any noises at all.

Right now, the front is either too low, or the rear is too high. I'll probably raise up the front a little because if the rear goes any lower, I'm afraid I'll get rubbing on the 215/45R17 tires. I'm probably going to get 215/40 or 205/40 tires next summer, so I'll drop it back down then.

I'll get pics of the finished install when I have everything set. Here's a few to quench your thirst for pics.


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-5-02 B&G Front - Exploded Components(sm).JPG (24 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-5-02 B&G Front - Initial Spring Setting(sm).JPG (34 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-5-02 B&G Front w- OEM Front(sm).JPG (22 Kb)

 
Rep Power: 318

hm.. I think you're right, I need to grease between the upper spring cup and the upper strut mount. now.. can I do this without having to pull apart my entire assembly? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG] if I can just find a way to compress the spring while it's attached to the car.. like a clamp of some kind, I can apply the grease that way. I really don't wanna get ANOTHER alignment and camber adjustment because I took everythign apart...

 
Rep Power: 318

I think it would be much easier (and safer) if you just took the strut apart.
If you just took a white paint pen, and marked both the bolts and the strut, then line em back up when you reinstall it, it should be fine.

EDIT: After looking at mine again (for like the millionth time my jar is on jacks these past few days) I think you could probably get away with compressing the spring. Maybe use those "Quick Grip" clamps to compress the spring if the spring compressor dosn't fit. The best way to make it work is if you could somhow squirt the grease up in there.

I need an alignment big time. Lots of toe-out right now. I'm gonna try and crank 'em in a little bit so I don't cook my tires. Definitly need the rear camber kit, and I better buy a front camber kit 'cause I don't want to go to the alignment place twice!


Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] 9-6-02 A=2-0in B=1-5in(sm).JPG (49 Kb)

 
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Okay guys. Thanks for the many post you guys have been leaving. NOw I'm kinda scared. I have taken apart my setup and do not see a black ring in my red separator cup. Mex, are you saying it could possibly be in my rubber upper mount that came with the coilovers?

Inanmiate.../ you said your first mistake was forgetting some kind of spacer when installing the rear. Are you talking about the black metal cup that is from the stock setup that holds the bumpstop?

I haven't taken apart the front coilovers, but I do not remeber a black ring in the separator cup either. I will talk to B&G about these changes if they are significant.

 
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DuYaKnow: when I received the coilovers, the black ring was inside the upper mount. I didn't think to take it out and put it inside the seperator cup. to me, it makes sense for it to be inside the upper mount, for extra cushioning.

this noise is really getting to me. I know now it's not coming from the upper mount area, ..it's definitely coming from the spring. I just don't get it!! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

also DuYaKnow.. I remember you tellin me you sent in the warranty card.. what happened with that?

 
Rep Power: 318

DuYaKnow: Yea, I forgot the black metal cup thing and more importantly, the large metal washer that was against it. My guess is that the dampner shaft is held in place by the washer which is then held by the rear upper strut mount.

Mex: I'm still betting it's the upper spring cup/strut mount. If you didn't grease the area between the upper spring cup and the upper strut mount, my guess is the spring is trying to turn inside the upper spring cup. The whole strut assembly should turn as one unit. If the upper cup dosn't want to turn, the next easiest thing will want to turn is the spring.

 
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I called B&G, and they said don't worry about the warranty card. They said as long as you have the receipt or if the place where you bought it from has records of you buying it from them, that is enough proof.

Okay, I know theres a black rubber ring in the upper mount for the front that came with the setup, but how about the rear??? I seem to see a black thing that sits in the red separator cup of one of Inanimate's pictures. Did you have that too Mex?

 
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I really can't recall.. man, this is all one big mess [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG]

 
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Hrmmm, I think I'm getting that same spring noise while turning. It's very quiet, so its not a concern for me right now. Normally I have the 'noise reduction system' on. (stereo)

 
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure the noise is from the red separator cup. Theres no way around it because when I looked at the spring, it still had space to move in the red cup. Therefore when you make turns or pop in reverse, the spring slides in the cup and hits the sides making a little noise. Since you have the same problem Inanimate, I guess the black spacers didn't help all that much. Oh wells, the noise is not too bad.

Are you guys running on tires with a sidewall of 45 or 40. I think the ride will be much softer with 45 i hope.

 
Rep Power: 318

I'm running 45s right now. I may switch to 40 series next summer so I can drop it more. I haven't really decided yet. The Kumho 711s aren't as aggressive as I would like right now, so probably 40 series 712s next summer.