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may i ask why there is no listing for an acura integra gs??

 
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Civicnewb - find the stock size for the integra gs and I'll add it, I deleted a few thingd that were inaccurate.


Hotrod - Swaybars are measured by the diameter of the bar itself, not length, your thinking of 19mm and over bars. On the skunk2 stuff, they have a horrible reputation in the industry for quality, especially with suspension parts. They try to do everything a little different than the other companies, including ones like Mugen and Spoon that sell $5000+ coilovers. If I had a decent budget for LCAs I'd look at Function 7 for something a little less expensive blackworks racing. On the coilover sleeves go with ground control, they're the best in the industry and not much more money. Before you do any other suspension work get your shocks, they're the platform everything else works off of.

 
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To install a 94-01 integra sway onto a 96-00 EK civic, you'll need the following:

The sway bar.
(2) EM1 sway bar mounting brackets.
(2) 94-01 Integra sway bar straps (the D shape ones)
(2) Bushings for the sway bar straps.
(4) M8 x 20 - 125 bolts for sway bar straps.
(4) M8 - 125 nuts for the sway bar straps.
(4) 5/16 flat washers for sway bar straps.
(4) 5/16 lock washers for sway bar straps.
(2) 94-01 Endlinks.
Bolts for the endlinks.

 
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as a reference, follow a moog swaybar endlink picture:


Hotrod 714 - make good use of the edit button and keep your posts at a minimum - anyone that comes here looking for info and needs to go through too many pages until you can get a good info reduces considerably the usefulness of the thread - i get upset when i see a thread but half od the thread does not contain any info i can use...
Again, not to bash, just to keep the efficacy )

 
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another data point.
Rear progress sway bar vs eibach (eibach is already larger than stock...)
Progress works wonders in cornering.
gray/Black in pic - progress
red - eibach

 
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I know I've seen this question earlier but wasn't sure exactly what the answer was. On an EM2 when u upgrade your sway bar 19mm or greater... Is a subframe necessary? If so it'd be to your benefit to buy the Nuespeed or Progress sway kit bc it comes with the brace, correct? The reason I ask is... The function 7 brace alone is $250+ while the Progress sway & brace is around $200 shipped.

 
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^You should be fine with a 19mm sway bar and no subframe brace, but anything above that and the brace is necessary to prevent subframe tear out. The progress and nuespeed kits are both great value for a mild performance bump, but you can't really compare those kits to a function 7 billet brace.

 
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Thank you for your response MB... I don't have many mods on my ride currently so I'll prob stick with mid-level. You have definitely saved me some headaches!

 
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Glad I could help!

A sway bar is probably one of the best mods anyone could do, it makes a huge difference in suspension performance.

 
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I see a lot of posts concerning rear sway swaps and sub frame bracing. You want a little more bang for your buck? Front swaybar reduction or removal.

01-02 uses a 25.4mm front sway and the 03-05 uses a 15.9mm front sway bar. Bump down to a 15.9mm if you have an 01-02. Sorry 03-05 guys. You can always remove yours entirely, or just bump up the rear just a bit, if you don't feel that squirly.

Same concept. Reduce understeer / less push. A little more slop in, but better traction out. Slop = Grip. Think of it as a fat girl rolling over in bed. More weight = more pressure on that side of the bed. Think outside front tire in a corner. A bigger front swaybar resists that pressure, equalizing it across the front of the car. Less pressure = More slide. Understeer 101. BBWs need love too.

 
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^ yes, sometimes if the course is too tight, i just unhook one of the endlinks in the front.

 
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I'm going to heavily edit the first post of this thread and gear it strictly towards 7th gen sway bars and subframe braces, it would be GREAT if I could get reviews from everyone who has aftermarket/oem swapped sway bars could post up a quick review of their set-up and possibly a picture.

Cheers Everyone

 
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If I want to put a DC5 rear sway bar on my ES2, do I need just the sway bar or do I need the sway bar and links?

 
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just the bar and bushings unless you have a DX with no rear bar. then you need the sway bar adapter kit and have to do some modding, along with new links, bushings, and bar.

 
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my canadian dx has a stock rear sway, its tiny

 
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Only 01 DXs came with no sway bar I believe.

 
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My 01 lx has no rear sway bar but an 03 lx at the junkyard has a rear sway bar. What?

 
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this is going to make some people cringe, but I thought I would put this in the sticky as a data point
currently driven ~150k miles with no front sway bar in an 02 civic ex. a little sketchy I must say. Front right tire wears a bit faster due to the shape of hwy roads.
going fast (50mph+) down a slope and hitting a sizable bump, or deeply grooved roads/that ledge when they regrade the road are the most sketchy and when you combine it with icy roads turns the car into a death machine.

feels like the car "catches air" more easily, i guess that's oversteer or body roll or something. kind of just throws the car into the other lane or that patch of snow/loose gravel in between lanes and requires a lot more effort to keep the car on the road. wind gusts from passing tractor trailers or on a particularly sloped stretch of highway also feels like the car is constantly being pulled towards the afterlife. tires with like 2-3 rotations only last about 50k miles but probably should be replaced for safety after half that lol. front wears twice as fast as the back. (did you know tires actually have the most traction and are logically the most safe once the wires start fraying out everywhere?)

anyways, thought I would post this here. I seen a few threads and youtube videos basically suggesting the sway bar does nothing. Don't be dumb like me and fix it if you do freeway driving. my car was only 600$ and came with some "custom" repair on a snapped control arm and there is no way to easily connect the bar now without getting a new control arm. im not confident enough to do suspension work under my harbor freight widow maker jack stands and the car is basically "totaled" now every time i go past a quarter tank so... those are my excuses.
thinking about installing a cheap aftermarket tower strut and canceling my extra life insurance to save money.
have a nice day everyone

 
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?

Did you install a beefier rear bar or just running without the front bar?
no front bar and only the stock rears is not a good way to go, it is as you say sketchy